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How do you define “cool”? Maybe it’s ostentation. Maybe it’s exclusivity. Maybe it’s a 250-year-old orthopaedically inspired German shoe. In 2023, odds are it’s the latter. This week, it was announced that Birkenstock had landed on the US stock market with a $7.5bn (£6.1bn) valuation, more than double its worth in 2021. If you’re unfamiliar with these absurdly comfortable sandals, the classic “Arizona” Birkenstock features a layered sole made of jute fibre and moulded cork, offering your foot some serious support, with two thick suede straps coming in some sort of earthy hue. The brand itself dates back to 1774, when founder Johann Adam Birkenstock started making shoes near Frankfurt. But for a long time, the shoes themselves were the pinnacle of dorkiness. There was nothing chic about the geek connotations, either. They were just, to put it bluntly, a bit lame – often associated with exceedingly earnest, granola-eating American liberals, and dubbed everything from “Geekenstocks” to “Flintstone feet”. You get the idea. Today, though, Birkenstock sells roughly 25 million pairs of shoes a year, and the brand is seen on and celebrated by stars such as Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid, Katie Holmes and Sienna Miller. Some have even been spotted wearing them with socks, demolishing decades of jokes about a look once considered fashion’s cardinal sin. It all adds up to form the greatest redemption arc in footwear. But how has one company managed to pull off a complete 180, as if transforming a pumpkin into Cinderella’s glass slipper? “The German engineering that has gone into this product actually speaks for itself,” says fashion analyst and author of Look at the Labels, Jennifer Walderdorff. “There are no gimmicks: the shoe does what it says on the tin. Its reliability is what [makes it] a fashion staple.” It has not been a quick turnaround, though, its reappraisal starting – sort of – in the 1990s. Fashion fans may recall the famous photos of Kate Moss taken in 1990 by Corinne Day. They show Moss, then 15, posing topless on a beach in Camber Sands, smoking a cigarette in a series of shots that would later make her one of the most influential models and faces of her generation. But there is a small fact about the photos that often gets forgotten: Moss is wearing Birkenstocks in them. It took a little longer for the trend to catch on properly. In 2013, Oliver Reichert became the first person outside the Birkenstock family to run the company, and it’s his leadership that’s helped steer the brand’s perception. It was that same year, for example, that Birkenstock began making appearances on runways: Céline models wore blue fur-lined sandals inspired by the German shoe, while A-list stars including Naomi Watts and Ashley Olsen started wearing them out and about. That summer, American Vogue declared that its staffers had, against all odds, “fallen for the Birkenstock”, noting how “a bulky shoe is actually more flattering on the leg than you would think”. In the world we live in today, there is so much more room for fashion and function, hence the appeal of the Birk Jennifer Walderdorff, fashion analyst It’s from here that the humble Birkenstock began its ascent into the heart of the fashion zeitgeist. By 2017, there were designer collaborations, with Barneys New York partnering with the brand to release a limited edition line of pink fur-lined sandals. Collaborations followed with other brands including Opening Ceremony, Rick Owens, and, most recently, Valentino. But as the latest valuation shows, the brand found a new lease of life this summer. You could barely step outside your house without spotting a pair. As for what’s fueled this recent surge, we can look to the pandemic, when we forwent shoes entirely and got accustomed to putting our comfort above all else. When lockdowns were lifted, all of us re-emerged with a shifted set of sartorial priorities, with high heels falling further down the totem pole in terms of stature and status. Today, there is nothing trendier than having your feet close to the ground. What is particularly interesting about Birkenstock as a brand is that despite the constant movement of fashion trend cycles, the design of its signature shoe hasn’t changed. “Birkenstock has lasted so long and grown to be the super giant it is because of the awareness and availability of information on its benefits,” adds Walderdorff. “There are lots of clothing items that are no longer worn due to their detrimental effects on the body, like corsets, which realign your internal organs to no gain. Similarly, overwearing high heels contributes to foot deformities. In the world we live in today, there is so much more room for fashion and function, hence the appeal of the Birk.” The rise of “normcore” can also be attributed to Birkenstock’s popularity. Characterised by unpretentious, utilitarian and functional clothing, the trend lends itself to the aesthetic of an orthopaedic shoe. “Normcore” also provide Birkenstocks the air of new wave edge, the shoes slotting neatly into a look that has become particularly popular among east London hipsters – take one look at the Instagram meme account Real Housewives of Clapton (which parodies a very specific type of natural-wine-drinking, Perello olive-eating, east Londoner) and you’ll see what I mean. Fashion has also generally seen an exponential rise in flat shoes. According to the Lyst Index, the industry’s quarterly report ranking fashion’s hottest brands and products according to Google searches and social media mentions, the season’s must-have is the Maison Margiela Tabi, a split-toed Japanese-inspired loafer. In fourth place is the Nike x Martine Rose Shox MR4 Mule, a pair of Tory Burch mules came in sixth place, New Balance trainers in eighth. And what was in fifth place? None other than the Birkenstock Arizona, of course. Perhaps the final hurdle for Birkenstock was to align itself with the feminine ideal – a space previously occupied by stiletto heels. Now, though, changes in attitudes around feminism and how feminist ideologies can be expressed through a woman’s clothing and appearance – yes, feminists can wear makeup! – has created a space for Birkenstock after all. In fact, this formerly frumpy shoe is now being perpetuated as the bastion of femininity. Don’t believe us? Simply take a look at the hottest film of the summer. At the end of Greta Gerwig’s stellar Barbie, our hero (played by Margot Robbie) has undergone a major emotional transformation that has seen her find a sense of purpose and identity. Gone are the feet once permanently raised so that they were perfectly positioned for a pair of heels. By the film’s conclusion, Robbie’s Barbie is an autonomous figure, a woman epitomising everything about contemporary feminism. And that includes having feet that are flat. Her footwear of choice? Why, a pair of pink Arizona Birkenstocks. Read More The grown-up guide to getting ‘balletcore’ right The Barbie press tour has finally rescued Margot Robbie’s red carpet reputation Birkenstock sandals are Barbie-approved – these are the pink styles to buy now Taylor Swift’s jacket from Chiefs game hints at Travis Kelce romance From choppy bobs to fox red, 5 celebrity-approved hair trends for autumn How Taylor Swift’s style has evolved over the years

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Menopause awareness has come a long way in recent years – especially in the workplace. This stands to reason, as nearly 80% of menopause-age women in the UK are in work, according to the Faculty of Occupational Medicine (FOM). In fact, according to ONS figures, menopausal women are the fastest-growing demographic in the workforce. While menopause isn’t challenging for everyone, around three-quarters going through it will experience symptoms – such as brain fog, impaired sleep, hot flushes, anxiety and mood changes – and for one in four women, the impact is severe. Celebrities like Davina McCall have worked hard to tackle taboos and open up conversations around menopause, and a lot has been going on behind the scenes to improve things across healthcare and the workplace. As World Menopause Day 2023 (October 18) approaches, three key figures in the field share their thoughts on the progress so far, and what needs to happen next… Louise Minchin, TV presenter, author and journalist “Progress has definitely been made in respect of people feeling able to speak up. Even if they don’t yet have the answers, people know they can ask the questions – the conversation is no longer taboo, which is brilliant,” says Minchin, who has been at the forefront of menopause conversations in the media. “There’s so much more in the public domain on menopause now, and this enables people to have more of a handle on the topic, and a much better idea where to find help.” In terms of what needs to happen next, she adds: “Employers should be much clearer on how to access training, advice and signposting services that will help their employees work through menopause. Guidelines are all well and good, but [people] need clarity – they need action plans, access to expert trainers and well-informed educators to help them understand and meet their responsibilities and obligations. “It’s important to change the culture, as only when this happens can people open up about what’s happening to them. If you have a supportive and open culture, people feel able to continue in their jobs with the changes that might be needed,” says Minchin – adding that it’s also important to remember “not everyone wants to share or will feel comfortable talking about their situation or their symptoms”, and that needs to be respected too. “We must keep going until we reach the point where we don’t even have to have a conversation about what employers are doing to support colleagues through menopause – because they just are.” Deborah Garlick, CEO of Henpicked: Menopause In The Workplace “In terms of progress, we’ve seen a significant increase in the number of employers taking menopause in the workplace seriously. Seven years ago, no employers had a menopause policy or guidance document. “Today, research suggests around half do, and we have hundreds of employers working towards The Menopause Friendly Accreditation to prove and demonstrate the remarkable, positive impact they’re making for their colleagues,” says Garlick, referencing a scheme set up to show employers ‘have a clear understanding of how menopause can have an effect at work’ and that they ‘care about the wellbeing’ of women at work. “Next we need to see every employer commit to being menopause friendly by putting their menopause policy into action. This is urgent, important and critical for organisational success, particularly with the double threat of our ageing population and the shrinking talent pool,” adds Garlick. “Employers who fail to look after people working through menopause will fall behind.” Rt Hon Caroline Nokes MP, Chair of the Women and Equalities Committee “We’ve made progress on the taboo and stigma, but we need healthcare to up its game. Too many women are still being told they’re too young, it’s depression, you can manage without HRT,” says Nokes, who heads up the cross-party committee set up in 2015 to scrutinise government work and spending around issues impacting women. HRT shortages also need to be tackled, Nokes adds: “You can’t be at your awesome best if you’re anxious about whether your next prescription will be filled – and that is in itself a workplace issue. If we are worried about productivity as a nation, then we need to give menopausal and perimenopausal women the tools to be as productive as possible.” Read More Online apps recommended to manage lower back pain From choppy bobs to fox red, 5 celebrity-approved hair trends for autumn The UK’s first dedicated male breast cancer organisation has launched How Taylor Swift’s style has evolved over the years Model Emily Ratajkowski unveils latest fashion campaign 10 ways to cosy-up your home for an autumnal vibe

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