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How Burberry evolved from humble raincoat maker to luxury fashion giant
How Burberry evolved from humble raincoat maker to luxury fashion giant
Always one of the most eagerly awaited events at London Fashion Week, the Burberry catwalk show attracts A-list celebrities, high-profile fashion editors and the biggest influencers from around the world. Last season, supermodel Naomi Campbell sat alongside Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Jason Statham on the front row to watch chief creative officer Daniel Lee unveil his debut collection, and expectations are high for the designer’s second show, which takes place on September 18. Coveted by consumers across the globe, the luxury label is perhaps the most famous British fashion brand, but it hasn’t always been such a hot property. Ahead of London Fashion Week, which starts on September 15, we look back at the tumultuous history of Burberry… Adventurous origins The brand was founded in 1856 when 21-year-old former draper’s apprentice Thomas Burberry opened his first shop in Basingstoke, Hampshire. Focused on creating outerwear that shielded wearers from typical British weather, the founder invented gabardine – a water-resistant but breathable fabric – and patented it in 1888. “Prior to this, waterproof clothing was made of rubberised cotton which was cumbersome, not breathable and certainly not chic,” explains celebrity fashion stylist Miranda Holder. “In contrast, garbadine’s individual fibres were waterproofed before the weaving process, creating a lighter, more fluid and comfortable piece.” In early examples of celebrity endorsement, Norwegian explorer and zoologist Dr Fridtjof Nansen wore Burberry gabardine when he sailed to the Arctic Circle in 1893, while famed British explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton chose the outerwear for three expeditions in the early 1900s. The war years The now-iconic Burberry trench coat was invented during WWI with a range of features designed for military use – including the gun flap and D-rings to carry grenades – many of which remain today. “Each classic Burberry trench is composed of 90 individual, specially shaped components,” says Savile Row tailor Alexandra Wood, founder of Alexandra Wood Bespoke. “The key design elements include its double-breasted front, shoulder epaulettes, beige colour, belted waist, buckled cuffs, storm flap, and a checked lining that the brand has become synonymous with.” The distinctive beige Burberry ‘nova check’ was introduced in the 1920s and is still used as a lining now, with the ever-popular trench coats retailing from around £1,500. “The appeal of the Burberry trench has to be largely due to its adaptability,” says Holder. “The coat’s pale beige colour perfectly lends itself to a myriad of different outfit options, and the flash of luxury lining – nova check or not – makes it instantly recognisable as a luxury piece.” The royal seal of approval In 1955, Queen Elizabeth II granted Burberry a royal warrant as a weatherproofer, and by the Swinging Sixties business was booming, with the brand saying it made one in five coats exported from Britain. The nova check graduated from discreet lining to designer status symbol, with coats, scarves and umbrellas in the beige print proving popular with shoppers in the Seventies. In 1990, Burberry secured its second royal warrant, as an outfitter, from the now King. Noughties notoriety After decades of success, the Burberry shine was tarnished when a more mainstream audience embraced nova check in the late 1990s, snapping up entry-level items and causing the brand to discontinue sales of baseball caps. “The pattern soon filtered down to the high streets and eventually the football terraces – it remains one of the most copied counterfeit designs today,” says Holder. “As a result Burberry’s star fell hard, the brand losing any exclusivity it once had, being unable to control who wore the label.” Paparazzi photos of Eastenders actress Danniella Westbrook in head to toe nova check were seen as the final nail in the coffin, she adds: “Danniella was getting a lot of very negative publicity at the time, relegating the designer to the bins of bad taste.” The catwalk comeback Attempting to rehabilitate the brand as the new millennium dawned, Burberry opened its first store on upmarket Bond Street in 2000 and brought in 29-year-old Christopher Bailey as design director the following year. “Christopher Bailey made a significant impact during his tenure as creative director by modernising Burberry’s image, introducing digital innovations, and collaborating with artists and musicians,” says Wood. “It made Burberry fresher and more relevant and helped to make the brand have an edge, whilst remaining sympathetic to its crisp, British design aesthetic.” Scaling back production of nova check, Bailey brought glamour to the brand and staged blockbuster catwalk shows with live music from artists such as Tom Odell and James Bay. “He updated the classic trench, putting new twists on the heritage design and bringing in supermodel Kate Moss to give it a new lease of life,” Holder says. “Bailey successfully repositioned Burberry as an industry leader and innovator, and as a result, tickets to their catwalk shows were some of the most sought after on the London Fashion Week schedule.” A-list appeal Following the departure of Christopher Bailey with a memorable rainbow-themed catwalk show, Italian designer Riccardo Tisci was appointed chief creative officer at Burberry in 2018. “Riccardo Tisci injected some younger, more contemporary energy into the aesthetic, which was a roaring success,” Holder says. “Influenced by streetwear, his collections attracted younger fans who appreciated his edgier styles, despite critics pointing out a lack of continuity with the brand’s more traditional heritage.” Tisci enlisted model friends such as Kendall Jenner and Irina Shayk to walk the runway and dressed stars including Nicki Minaj and Kate Moss for the Met Gala. He also reintroduced nova check, much to the delight of celebrities and a new generation of Burberry fans. Bradford-born Daniel Lee took over from Tisci and made his debut at London Fashion Week in February 2023. The autumn/winter collection – which didn’t feature any beige trench coats – teamed sweeping coats and chunky knitwear with irreverent accessories like a woolly hat shaped like a duck and hot water bottles carried like clutch bags.
2023-09-11 15:52
Vietnam Air, Boeing Agree $7.8 Billion Deal for 737 Max Jets
Vietnam Air, Boeing Agree $7.8 Billion Deal for 737 Max Jets
Vietnam Airlines JSC signed an agreement to buy Boeing Co. aircraft during a visit by US President Joe
2023-09-11 15:23
9 arthritis myths we all need to stop believing
9 arthritis myths we all need to stop believing
Many people assume arthritis is just an ‘old person’s’ disease, and an inevitable part of getting older. Try telling that to the parents of toddlers impacted by the condition, or the 20-somethings living with it. The suggestion that it only troubles the elderly is one of many myths associated with arthritis, which affects around 10 million people in the UK. “One in six people live with the pain, fatigue, and disability arthritis can cause. The impact can be huge, affecting the ability to work, care for family, move free from pain and live independently,” says Deborah Alsina, chief executive at the arthritis support charity Versus Arthritis, speaking to mark Rheumatoid Arthritis Awareness Week (September 11–17). “There are many misconceptions when it comes to understanding arthritis, but by shining a light on the reality of living with arthritis day in, day out, we can help grow understanding and inspire people to take action.” Dr Amara Ezeonyeji, consultant rheumatologist from The Lister Hospital in London (part of HCA Healthcare UK), adds: “Arthritis is a general term that refers to a group of over 100 different types of inflammatory joint diseases that affect the musculoskeletal system. The most common symptom of arthritis is joint pain, but it can also cause stiffness, swelling, and decreased joint mobility.” She says the most common form of arthritis is osteoarthritis (OA), often associated with wear and tear of the joints. Other common types are rheumatoid arthritis (RA), an autoimmune disease that primarily affects the joints; psoriatic arthritis, a type of arthritis associated with the skin condition psoriasis; ankylosing spondylitis which primarily affects the spine and can lead to fusion of the vertebrae; and gout, which is caused by the accumulation of uric acid crystals in the joints and often affects the big toe. “There are several myths about arthritis that are often repeated. It’s important to dispel these to promote an accurate understanding of arthritis, and to encourage those affected to seek appropriate medical care and support from a rheumatologist,” Ezeonyeji adds. Here, Alsina and Ezeonyeji debunk nine common arthritis myths… Myth 1: Arthritis only affects the elderly While it is more common in older adults, arthritis can affect people of all ages, including children and young adults. Myth 2: Cracking your knuckles causes arthritisPeople who crack their knuckles will sometimes be wrongly warned that it’ll bring on arthritis, but Ezeonyeji explains: “There’s no scientific evidence linking knuckle cracking to the development of arthritis. When people crack their knuckles, they experience a release of pressure in the joints and relaxation in the surrounding muscles. It can make the joint feel more mobile and is unlikely to cause arthritis or other problems.” Myth 3: It’s just wear and tearAlsina says one of the most damaging myths is that any form of arthritis is just ‘wear and tear’. “Osteoarthritis is the most common type of arthritis and will affect half of us by age 70. But it isn’t an inevitable part of ageing – your joints are not like car tyres destined to wear down and be replaced. They are made of complex living tissue that our bodies constantly repair and maintain, and osteoarthritis occurs when our bodies can no longer do this effectively,” she says. “Our joints get stronger the more we use them, so keeping physically active and maintaining a healthy weight can help keep osteoarthritis under control.” Myth 4: Cold damp weather causes arthritisAlthough cold and damp weather can sometimes make arthritic joints feel worse, it’s definitely not why arthritis starts. Ezeonyeji explains: “Weather can influence joint discomfort, but it doesn’t cause arthritis. Arthritis is primarily a result of genetic and environmental factors.” Myth 5: Exercise makes arthritis worse People with arthritis can often find it hard to maintain regular physical activity, but a lack of movement can actually increase symptoms such as stiffness and pain, warns Alsina. “Building activity into your daily routine can help improve this, because using your joints builds muscle strength and improves the blood supply, all of which can ease symptoms and keep joints in better shape for longer.” She says different activities will suit different people, but adds: “Swimming and cycling are great exercises to try, as they get the body moving without putting pressure on painful joints.” It’s always a good idea to seek advice from a healthcare specialist if you are unsure what types of exercise will be suitable for you. Myth 6: Arthritis is just joint pain – it’s not serious Ezeonyeji says that while arthritis can be debilitating and lead to a reduced quality of life, it can get even more serious than that for some people. “Rheumatoid arthritis, for instance, is an autoimmune disease that can affect various organs and tissues in addition to joints,” she points out. Myth 7: There’s no treatment for arthritis While there’s no cure for arthritis, Ezeonyeji says there are many effective treatments for managing the disease, including pain relief medication, physiotherapy, disease modifying agents and biological drugs for inflammatory arthritis, plus joint surgery in some cases. “It’s also recommended that people with arthritis modify their lifestyle and try to lose weight [if they need to], follow a healthy balanced diet, exercise regularly and stop smoking,” she adds. Myth 8: Miracle cures can make arthritis disappear Although some people with arthritis believe copper or magnetic bracelets ease symptoms, Alsina says studies show no evidence to support this. “It’s the same with lots of supplements, and some of these are really pricey,” she observes. “Interestingly though, placebos can be very effective and continue to work even if you know it’s a placebo, so if you find these helpful there’s no reason to stop.” Myth 9: Certain foods definitely help/hinder arthritisThere are claims that foods like tomatoes can cause arthritis flares, and other foodstuff like cider vinegar may help it. Alsina says: “Sadly there’s no good evidence that there are specific foods you should avoid or have more of. But if you do find things that are helpful or make your symptoms worse, then listen to your body.” Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live Prince Harry spotted at Windsor Castle on anniversary of Queen’s death How the weather can change the way you dream All the times Kate has channelled the late Queen’s style since her death
2023-09-11 15:15
Seven super simple recipes for each day of National Rice Week
Seven super simple recipes for each day of National Rice Week
National Rice Week, back this September (11-17 September), is the perfect opportunity to widen your recipe repertoire and discover great value meal ideas to feed all the family. The annual campaign run by the UK Rice Association aims to raise the profile of the British rice sector and encourage more people to choose rice, whether that’s demonstrating the simplicity of cooking it at home or being first choice when eating out. Showcasing dishes using a variety of rice grains, we’ve got seven super simple new recipes for you to try, all of which are tasty, easy to follow and make the most of leftovers and store cupboard staples – like rice! Not only is rice super versatile – in fact, rice is one of the few foods that can be enjoyed sweet or savoury, hot or cold and for every meal of the day – it is also gluten-free and offers a host of nutritional benefits too. With seven dishes using seven types of rice, there’s a new recipe to try every day of the week. Creamy mushroom and chicken rice Serves: 4 Prep time: 5 minutes | Cooking time: 30 minutes Ingredients: 1 tbsp olive oil 2 leeks, trimmed, cleaned and sliced (230g) 3 garlic cloves, sliced 300g mushrooms, sliced 300g Bomba rice 1 litre chicken stock ½ pack (10g) flat-leaf parsley, chopped 4 tbsp sour cream 2 chicken breasts (skin off) Method: Preheat the oven to 180C. Heat the olive oil in a heavy-based casserole dish over a moderate heat, add the leeks and cook for about 6-7 minutes until soft. Add the garlic and mushrooms and cook for a further minute. Add rice, stock and give the rice a good stir. Cover the pan and bake in the oven for about 25 minutes or until the rice has absorbed all the liquid and the grains are just cooked through. Stir in the parsley, sour cream and season to taste. In the meantime, pan fry the chicken in a non-stick pan with a little oil until cooked throughout. To serve, chop up the chicken, then add it to the pan with the rice. Mix to combine. Sprinkle with fresh parsley. Cooks tip: Add some chorizo for extra flavour. Sticky chicken rice bowls Serves: 4 Prep time: 10 minutes | Cooking time: 20 minutes Ingredients: For the rice: 6 spring onions chopped (90g) 1 tbsp coconut oil/olive oil 200g Jasmine rice 400ml coconut light milk 200ml water For the dressing: 1 tbsp maple syrup 1 tsp brown rice miso 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp rice vinegar 1 tbsp sriracha 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil 2 chicken breasts (skin off) 1 tbsp olive oil To serve: 2 tbsp crushed roasted peanuts Handful coriander/mint 1 spring onion sliced Method: To make the rice, fry the spring onion in a large pan with the oil. Now add the rice, coconut milk and water. Stir then cover pan with lid and simmer until the liquid is absorbed (12-14 minutes). Once the liquid is absorbed, turn off the heat keeping the lid on the rice for 10 minutes. Season to taste. For the dressing, add all the ingredients to a jar and mix to combine To cook the chicken, pre heat oven to 180C. Score the chicken breasts and heat the oil in a griddle or frying pan. Cook the chicken for 7-8 minutes on one side, then flip and cook for 4-5 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a large baking tray and spoon over the dressing. Bake for 5 minutes until they are bubbling. To serve, spoon the coconut rice into bowls, top with the chicken and all the garnishes. Cook’s tip: You can swap the chicken for salmon, tofu or aubergine. Herby rice with harissa roast tomatoes and feta Serves: 4 Prep time: 5 minutes | Cooking time: 25 minutes Ingredients: 200g brown rice For the tomatoes: 300g cherry tomatoes 1 tbsp olive oil For the harissa dressing: 2 tbsp harissa/rose harissa 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 lemon juice To stir in: 150g feta 10g fresh dill, chopped 15g fresh mint, chopped Method: Cook the rice as per pack instructions. To cook the tomatoes, preheat the oven to 180C. Add the cherry tomatoes to a large baking tray and toss them in 1 tbsp of olive oil. Bake on for 20-25 minutes or until soft and browning a little. Set aside. To make the dressing, add all the ingredients to a jar and mix to combine then season to taste. To sever, toss the rice with the dressing, fresh herbs and feta. Top with the roast tomatoes. Cook’s tip: Make a vegan version by swapping the feta for vegan feta or crispy tofu. Rice salad with salmon, greens and lemon tahini dressing Serves: 4 Prep time: 5 minutes | Cooking time: 20 minutes Ingredients: 200g long grain rice 2 salmon steaks (240g) 1 onion, sliced 100g cabbage greens 1 courgette sliced (200g) For the lemon tahini dressing: Juice of ½ lemon 2 tbsp runny tahini 1 tbsp olive oil 50ml water To serve: Fresh mint Method: To make the rice salad, cook the rice as per the pack instructions. Drain and set aside. In the meantime, pan fry the salmon steaks on a little oil for 2-3 minutes on each side. Set aside and flake up when cool. In a separate frying pan, add the onion and fry for 5-6 minutes. Now add the cabbage and courgette and fry for 2-3 minutes. Add in the cooked rice. To make the dressing, add all the ingredients to a jar and mix to combine. To serve, add the rice and greens to a large bowl, add the flaked salmon and toss lightly to combine. Serve with dressing and fresh mint. Cook’s tip: This also works well with a harissa or classic vinaigrette dressing. Veggie biryani with crispy tofu Serves: 4 Prep time: 5 minutes | Cooking time: 25 minutes Ingredients: For the biryani: 1 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, sliced finely (120g) 2 carrots, chopped up finely (200g) 3 cloves garlic, minced ½ red chilli or ½ tsp chilli flakes 1 tsp turmeric 1 tsp garam masala 3 tomatoes, chopped (350g) 200g basmati rice 500ml vegetable stock 1 can coconut milk (400ml) 150g frozen peas For the crispy tofu: 1 x 200g block firm tofu cut into medium-sized slices 1 tbsp oil To serve: Fresh coriander Method: To make the Biryani, add the oil to a large saucepan pan, heat to medium then add the onions, carrots, garlic, chilli and spices. Fry on a low heat for approx 6-7 minutes until soft. Now add the tomatoes, rice, stock and coconut milk – simmer until the rice is cooked (15-20 minutes) Stir in the peas 2 minutes just before the rice is cooked. Season to taste. To make the crispy tofu, heat a frying pan to medium and add the oil to the pan. Add the tofu to the pan, fry on each side for a few minutes, turning carefully until crispy. To serve, top the rice with the tofu and fresh coriander. Cook’s tip: The rice works really well with prawns or chicken. Sticky mango rice bowls Serves: 4 Prep time: 5 minutes | Cooking time: 20 minutes Ingredients: 100g sushi rice, pre-soaked 250ml plant based milk ½ can coconut milk (200ml) 3 tbsp caster sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract To serve: 1 ripe mango sliced 4 tbsp desiccated coconut, toasted Pistachios Method: In a medium pan, combine the sushi rice, plant based milk, coconut milk and sugar and stir well. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, for 12-15 minutes or until the rice is tender and has thickened. Stir in the vanilla extract. To serve, divide into bowls and top with the mango, coconut and pistachios. Add a little additional coconut milk if needed. Cook’s tip: This makes a lovely dessert but also can be eaten in the morning for breakfast. Cheesy pea arancini with garlic mayo Makes: 16-18 Prep time: 5 minutes | Cooking time: 25 minutes Ingredients: For the arancini: 800g leftover risotto of choice 150g frozen peas, defrosted Juice of ½ lemon 100g mature cheddar grated To coat the arancini: 200g toasted bread 50g plain flour 2 eggs, beaten with 1 tsp water To serve: Garlic mayo Fresh herbs Drizzle of extra virgin olive oil Method: To make the arancini, mix the leftover risotto with the peas, lemon juice and cheddar, seasoning to taste. Scoop up a golf ball sized amount and roll into a ball. Place the balls on a plate ready for rolling. To make the crumb, break up the toast a little and add to your food processor and blitz until you get a fine crumb and add to a shallow dish. Add the plain flour to a shallow bowl and the beaten egg to another. Roll each arancini in a little flour, then egg and finally coat in the breadcrumbs. Repeat. Drizzle a baking tray with olive oil and add the balls. Bake for 25 minutes – turn halfway through. To serve, top with a little olive oil and fresh herbs. Cook’s tip: Also delicious with some mozzarella in the middle of the arancini instead of the cheddar. For more information see: www.riceassociation.org.uk or www.facebook.com/TheRiceAssociation Read More Three healthy recipes to get back on track after summer Is bottomless prosecco going to be killed off by climate change? Budget Bites: Three ways to pimp up university student classics Epicurus: American fast food meets the Middle East in Camden Market ‘How being thrifty in the kitchen helped me get on the housing ladder’ How to make spinach and mushroom quiche
2023-09-11 13:52
Thai Premier Pitches $16 Billion Cash Handout to Revive Economy
Thai Premier Pitches $16 Billion Cash Handout to Revive Economy
Thailand will dole out 560 billion baht ($16 billion) to its 55 million adults in the next six
2023-09-11 11:56
Passengers evacuated on runway at Singapore's Changi Airport after Air China plane engine catches fire
Passengers evacuated on runway at Singapore's Changi Airport after Air China plane engine catches fire
An Air China flight was evacuated upon landing in Singapore after one of the aircraft engines caught fire on Sunday, leading to a three-hour closure of Changi Airport.
2023-09-11 11:50
China’s Gen Z Is Trying to Leisure-Shop Way Out of Jobless Blues
China’s Gen Z Is Trying to Leisure-Shop Way Out of Jobless Blues
Youth unemployment is at a record high and growth is faltering — but China’s gloomy economic backdrop hasn’t
2023-09-11 06:51
Delta passenger's dog who went missing at Atlanta airport found safe after 3 weeks
Delta passenger's dog who went missing at Atlanta airport found safe after 3 weeks
After enduring nearly a month of heartache and anxiety, a dog owner can finally rest after her missing dog was found safely at Atlanta's Hartsfield-Jackson Airport on Saturday, according to airport officials.
2023-09-11 04:27
At Proenza Schouler, bleached denim, sweaters-as-scarves, echoes of wind chimes: NY FASHION PHOTOS
At Proenza Schouler, bleached denim, sweaters-as-scarves, echoes of wind chimes: NY FASHION PHOTOS
NEW YORK (AP) — If you listened closely, you could hear a sound akin to wind chimes on a breezy day coming from the Proenza Schouler runway at New York Fashion Week.
2023-09-11 01:27
Once in a Century Quake Deals Blow to North Africa’s Bright Spot
Once in a Century Quake Deals Blow to North Africa’s Bright Spot
When Morocco’s top tourist city was rocked by the country’s deadliest earthquake in six decades, Hicham Aamran and
2023-09-11 00:49
What to stream this week: 'Barbie,' Dan & Shay, 'The Morning Show' and 'Welcome to Wrexham'
What to stream this week: 'Barbie,' Dan & Shay, 'The Morning Show' and 'Welcome to Wrexham'
This week’s new entertainment releases include an album from country pop duo Dan & Shay, the return of Jennifer Aniston and Reese Witherspoon for season three of “The Morning Show” and you can own “Barbie” — for a price
2023-09-11 00:24
You Can Donate Your Leftover Halloween Candy to American Troops and First Responders
You Can Donate Your Leftover Halloween Candy to American Troops and First Responders
Remove the risk to your waistline and do some good at the same time by donating your leftover Halloween candy.
2023-09-10 23:50
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