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Most people in the UK think they know piri piri. Thanks to a certain restaurant chain, it is most closely associated with chargrilled chicken, floppy bits of halloumi, corn on the cob and bottomless fizzy drinks. But the chilli oil’s history is a little more nuanced and murky than that. During a recent trip to the Algarve, where “chicken houses” outnumber British expats, I went in search of the truth. While no one can seem to agree on its exact origins, it’s thought that during Portugal’s “mercantile” era, explorers discovered the bird’s eye chilli pepper – the main ingredient in today’s ubiquitous hot sauce – somewhere in the Americas in the 15th century. Seeing its potential to rival the “black gold” (black pepper) trade, they brought it back to their colonies in Africa to cultivate it before selling it on to Asia and Europe, significantly cutting down the shipping time. And so the global spice trade was born. But the plant suited Africa’s hot, dry climate and quickly became an important ingredient in local cooking. Fermenting it in the baking African sun and using it to marinade meat cooked over fire produced the first iteration of the classic piri piri flavour we know and love today. It wasn’t until the late Sixties, however, when Portuguese settlers and native Africans started arriving in southern Portugal, bringing with them this centuries-old technique and an appetite for spice, that it took off globally. Around the same time, chicken was becoming more affordable in Portugal, with poorer families buying whole birds to keep everyone fed and the famous “chicken houses” opening up across the Algarve offering an economical meal out. Pairing it with the piri piri oil brought over from the colonies was a natural evolution. Its enduring popularity is evident in sell-out restaurants like Marufo – affectionately referred to as “the chicken shack” – where come dinnertime there’s a queue out the door. But with 20 chickens rotating on the purpose-built spits at any one time, meticulously tended by a hot in temperature as well as temper chef, service is quick. They churn out over 700 chickens a day. As a self-identified aficionado, it’s some of the best I’ve had. It’s also the place where Marco Mendes, co-founder of MJMK Restaurants, conceived the idea for Casa do Frango, London’s authentic Algarvan piri piri outpost. “I’ve been going to Marufo since I was a kid,” he tells me as we pitch up in the queue. “I took Jake [Kasumov, the other half of MJMK] to stay with my family. We were eating this chicken and we started to have that lightbulb moment of: ‘You know, this is really something special. Could we bring this to London?’” They opened the first site in London Bridge in 2018, and have gone from strength to strength, opening three more sites, with the latest one earlier this year in Victoria. Keeping things authentic in London’s melting pot of cuisines is the driving force behind the concept. Aside from the centrepiece of the menu, the piri piri chicken, “there are other touchpoints like the African rice” – supposedly created at a restaurant in the Algarve as a simple rice dish for staff to use up leftover ingredients – and other things that are particularly Algarvan, such as the montanheira salad (mountain tomato salad), which “really feels like home”, or particularly Portuguese, like “pastel de nata, the iconic custard tart of Portugal”. (“That obviously had to be on the original menu, and it’s been there ever since.”) They’re also the only restaurant using the smaller 800g-1kg chickens, known as chooks, that are traditionally used in the Algarve, which they source from a higher welfare farm in the UK. “We adhere to the authentic route of the dish as it’s done in the Algarve,” Mendes explains. “From how we prepare our chicken to how we choose them to begin with; the fact that we reverse spatchcock them; that we don’t marinate them before they go on the grill, they’re just basted in salt.” So what’s happening at Casa do Frango is pretty unique, and London is lapping it up. “For people who know Portugese cuisine or know southern Portuguese food and have been to the Algarve, I think it really resonates with them,” says Mendes. That being said, Portuguese isn’t a cuisine that’s all that well represented in the British capital or across the country, with only a handful of big name spots (MJMK also counts Nuno Mendes’ Lisboeta in its canon) and smaller, family-run eateries paying true homage. Busting myths is an exercise close to Mendes’ heart. “Eating seasonally, eating with respect to the environment, understanding the ecosystem that you’re living in, that to me is what Portuguese cuisine is,” he explains. “But I also think that there’s a wealth of creativity. Some of the stereotypes around Portuguese food can be that it’s potentially a little bit rustic, or not as flavourful or complex or dynamic as our neighbours in Spain, but I think that’s untrue. I find that there’s so much deft in Portuguese cuisine. “I think the storytelling or marketing side of it has felt quite fragmented, but now amazing chefs from across the country are bringing the message out and telling that story. And I think people are realising just how profound the cuisine is and what it’s got to offer.” He’s quick to acknowledge, though, that the wider cuisine and the offering at Casa do Frango would be nothing without the controversial history that brought the bird’s eye chilli pepper to Portugal in the first place. “It’s definitely to do with Portuguese mercantile history in some form or another,” he says. “But I believe that in turn, we received a ton back from the countries and the people that formed part of that mercantile exploration.” He mentions Japanese tempura, brought by Portuguese missionaries to Japan in the 16th century, or vindaloo curry, which was originally invented as a way to preserve fresh ingredients by Portuguese sailors, and was later adapted by local cooks in Goa. He also says “a lot of our dishes came from the interaction between the Portuguese and their land. Take a dish like açorda [a Portuguese bread soup]. It came from Alentejo. The Portuguese living there need sustenance and nutrition, but they didn’t have any money. So they put a piece of bread and a poached egg in broth, and made what was effectively a savoury bread pudding.” It was a frugal way of filling peasant bellies, but today typically includes a handful of other ingredients like fresh herbs or seafood. Back at Casa do Frango in London, Mendes has some tips on how to have a truly authentic Algarvan experience. “If I were to go through my perfect order that’s truly intrinsic to Portugal, I would start by having the couvert, which is the bread and butter and the carrots and the lupin beans. As a starter, I would have the chorizo and the prawns, because both those dishes are iconic to Portugal. I would dip the bread into the piri piri oil as one should do.” Of course. “And then I would follow that with the patatas fritas [the fries], the African rice and the montanheira salad. Then the piri piri chicken. And I would finish it off with what is the most icnoic Algarvan dessert: the mousse de chocolat.” And, while most of the Casa do Frango recipes are a closely guarded secret, he’s shared exclusively with The Independent a few dishes so that you can host the perfect Algarvan feast at home. Saúde! Casa slaw Ingredients: For the slaw: 1 x hispi cabbage (approx 700-800g) 350g carrots 1 red onion (finely diced) 1 bunch of parsley (finely chopped) Sherry and mustard dressing Pinch of Maldon salt For the dressing: 50ml aged sherry vinegar 150ml extra virgin olive oil 3 tsp Dijon mustard 1 tsp Maldon salt 5 turns of black pepper 2 tbsp caster sugar Method: Mix all the ingredients for the dressing in a large bowl and whisk until fully emulsified. Wash the cabbage, cut in half lengthways, remove the core root and discard any outer leaves if bruised or damaged. Wash the carrots, peel and remove the tops and tails, then grate. Finely shred the hispi cabbage (use a food processor if you have one). Mix the cabbage and carrots together evenly. In a large bowl, mix the slaw with finely diced red onion and the sherry and mustard dressing. Place in a large serving dish and top with a pinch Maldon salt and the finely chopped parsley. Montanhiera salad Ingredients: For the dressing: 75ml white wine vinegar 200ml extra virgin olive oil Large pinch of table salt 1 tsp sugar For the salad: 3 medium green peppers 2 medium white skinned onions (or red onions) 250g cherry tomatoes on the vine 1 cucumber, diced 150ml classic French dressing (shop-bought or homemade) Salt and pepper to season Pinch of dry oregano, to serve Method: Mix all the ingredients for the dressing in a large bowl and whisk until fully emulsified. Pour into a clean bottle and keep refrigerated while you prepare the salad, or save for later. Grill the peppers on the barbecue, turning regularly. Cook for approximately 5 minutes or until the skin is evenly charred. Cool, peel off the skin and discard the seeds, then dice into 1cm cubes. Peel the onion and dice into 1cm cubes. Peel the cucumber, slice in half lengthways, remove the inside with a spoon and dice into 1cm cubes. Wash the tomatoes and slice in half through the eye. Mix the ingredients for the salad with the dressing in a large bowl apart from the oregano, add a pinch of Maldon salt and a few turns of black pepper, and mix well to coat all the ingredients. Serve in a salad bowl, with a sprinkle of dry oregano on top. Classic piri piri oil Ingredients: 5 garlic cloves (crushed to a paste) 1 tsp dried red chilli flakes 1 tsp chilli powder 2 tbsp whisky or brandy 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 bay leaf 1 tsp Maldon sea salt 250ml (1 cup) olive oil Method: Place all ingredients except half of the olive oil in a small pan on a medium heat and bring to a simmer. Then remove from the heat and whisk in the remaining 125ml oil. Cool down and refrigerate until needed. Casa do Frango has four locations in London Bridge, Victoria, Shoreditch and Piccadilly. Find out more or make a reservation at casadofrango.co.uk Read More 30-minute summer recipes for all the family to enjoy What to cook this week: Tomato tart, sweetcorn pasta and other summery suppers Dorshi, Dorset, restaurant review: Funky dumplings are a hit on the south coast Tofu chicken to chickpea bacon – how and why you should make plant-based meat at home The dish that defines me: Mallini Kannan’s baked honey-soy salmon Breakfast for dinner and four other things you should cook this week

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Liam Payne is on the road to recovery, as he revealed that he was recently hospitalised due to a kidney infection. The singer, 29, took to Instagram on 25 August to share the news, while he announced that his upcoming tour - which was supposed to start next month - is going to be postponed. He expressed that his doctors advised him to focus on his health, after he’d been hospitalised due to a kidney infection. “It’s with a heavy heart I have to tell you that we have no other choice but to postpone my upcoming tour of South America,” he wrote in the caption, alongside a video of himself. “Over the past week I’ve been in hospital with a serious kidney infection. It’s something I wouldn’t wish on anyone, and doctors orders are that I now need to rest and recover.” While Payne expressed that he was “beyond excited to play” music, he acknowledged that fans will soon be refunded for their tickets. However, the former One Direction member also added that the new dates haven’t been decided yet. “To all of you who have bought tickets, I’m so sorry. We’re working to reschedule the tour as soon as we possibly can, but for now we will be refunding the tickets. So, please look out for updates from your point of purchase,” he wrote. “Thanks as always for the love and support, and look forward to seeing you soon.” In his video, the “Bedroom Floor” singer went on to describe how he’d been a “bit unwell” recently, following the “bad kidney infection”. “We started rehearsals, and I’ve just been advised that now is not the right time for me to be out on the road, trying to recover from this,” Payne said. “I have the best people around me at home trying to help me recover as we speak.” He also added that he hopes that when the time comes, he could “put on an even bigger show” for his fans. According to the National Health Service, hospitalisation as a result of kidney infection can occur for a variety of reasons - such as when a patient is severely dehydrated, unable to swallow or keep down any fluids or medicines, or has a weakened immune system. Fans rushed to the comments section of Payne’s video, where they sent him sweet messages and hoped for him to make a healthy recovery. “Always got your back, champ,” one wrote, while another added: “Get well soon! Love you and here for you forever and always.” A third wrote: “Sending one massive BIG hug your way.” The tour was initially set to kick off on 1 September in Lima, Peru, with his final show in Mexico City, Mexico, on 12 September. In July, Payne made his official return to his YouTube channel, where he discussed how excited he was to go back on tour. He also spoke candidly about his health, after finishing a 100-day rehabilitation stay and was nearly six months sober. Payne went on to admit that prior to sharing the YouTube video, he removed himself from the public eye for his mental well-being. “I just needed to take a little bit of time out for myself actually, because I kind of became somebody who I didn’t really recognise anymore,” he explained. “And I’m sure you guys didn’t either. I was in bad shape up until that point and I was really happy to kind of put a stopper to life and work.” In the YouTube video, the “Strip That Down” singer also discussed his appearance on Logan Paul’s podcast, Impaulsive. Payne expressed regret for some of the things he said about Zayn Malik, after professing that there were “many reasons why he disliked” his former One Direction bandmate. “I think for me, a lot of what I said just came from the wrong place,” Payne recalled. “I was so angry at what was going on around me that instead of taking a look inwards I decided to take it outwards.” Payne said he thought his anger stemmed from frustrations with his career and, rather than reflecting privately, he took his feelings out on others. He added that he “wanted to apologise” for his behaviour. Read More Liam Payne apologises for Zayn Malik comments as he completes 100 days in rehab Zayn Malik discloses ‘underlying issues’ that led to him quitting One Direction: ‘We got sick of each other’ Liam Payne says he’s over 100 days sober: ‘I feel amazing’ ‘Boy moms’ receive backlash for teaching sons how to cook - but for the wrong reason This is how stress affects different parts of the body Chris Pratt’s daughters give him a glittery makeover

Many people are calling out mothers of sons - also known as “boy moms” - for the reason why they’re teaching their sons how to cook, as some people call it a “red flag”. The TikTok trend first began when user Laura Elizabeth Graham shared a video of herself cooking in the kitchen with her young son, as she wrote over the clip: “Making sure my son can cook so he’s not impressed by your daughter’s [Stouffer’s] lasagna.” She continued to write in the video’s caption that her son would need a “home-cooked meal” from his future wife. Meanwhile, fellow “boy moms” also hopped on the trend, as one shared a similar video how she was teaching her son cooking skills so “he’s not impressed by your frozen pizza daughter”. The videos have since sparked a debate, as many users replied that they were teaching their sons to cook “because it’s a necessary life skill for independence.” “Teaching my son to cook because it’s a basic necessity,” one person commented under Graham’s video. Another person proclaimed they were “team daughter-in-law,” while one viewer added that the trend was “screaming red flags”. In response to the TikTok trend, some mothers took the opportunity to point out that showing young boys how to cook - just so that he’s not “impressed” by someone else’s cuisine - only teaches him to expect a higher level of household labour from his future partner. In fact, TikTok user Payal Desai posted a series of videos showing the ways in which she was teaching her sons how to take care of themselves - emotionally and physically - as they grow older. In one video, Desai showed her sons how to clean the dishes and explained why she does it: “So your daughter doesn’t have to deal with a man who was catered to his whole life.” @lauraelizabethgraham He’s gonna need a home cooked meal Felicia ? #boymom #boymomlife #boymomsoftiktok #mamasboy #mommasboy #mamasboys #relatablemom #motherinlaw #motherinlawproblems #momsoftiktok IB: @brontevictoria.capowski ♬ original sound - Laura Elizabeth Graham Many mothers of young boys also joined in, showing the ways in which they were empowering their sons to be more self-sufficient and responsible. Meanwhile, psychologist and mother Amber Wardell reacted to the TikTok trend, saying in a video: “I’m teaching my son to cook so that he will show up for his future wife as though she’s his partner and not his servant.” The ongoing trend to categorise parents as a “boy mom” or “girl dad” reportedly perpetuates gender stereotypes. “The gendering process then continues through quite literally every aspect of that child’s life: the pink or blue newborn hospital beanie, the princess or football player clothing gifted at the baby shower, the jungle or fairyland nursery room decor, and of course, the toy trucks or baby dolls,” Dr Jessica N Pabón-Colón - an associate professor of women’s, gender, and sexuality studies at SUNY New Paltz - explained to Refinery29 in 2021. @payalforstyle No dust here. #dustyson #dustydaughter #trend #boymom ♬ original sound - Bryan Pabón-Colón emphasised that juxtaposing opposite genders, in hashtags like #BoyMom, also reinforces supposed gender differences. Speaking to the outlet, she explained that both the #GirlDad and #BoyMom trend “announces the ‘feminine’ mother’s ability to parent a child whose ‘masculine’ gender is different from hers,” and ultimately suggests that parents of the opposite gender have to try harder to relate to their girls and boys. @sensible_amber This is how we create snobby, entitled men who treat their wives like the help and constantly compare them to mommy dearest. Let’s teach our boys to be self-sufficient, nurturing, compassionate, and supportive. Let’s teach them that their wives do not exist to be their mommies. Most importantly, let’s teach our sons that it is HEALTHY and NORMAL for them to one day leave us and become more attached to their wives than they are to us, and that this is what we WANT for them. Otherwise, we’ll all end up with our boys living with us forever — not because they love us but because no women will have them. They’ll be divorced, lonely and miserable, and we’ll still be cooking their meals. Is this really what we want for our sons? #motherhood #momlife #motherhoodunplugged #motherhoodunited #parenting #boymom #biymomculture #toxicboymomculture ♬ original sound - Amber Although seemingly innocuous, she suggested that this mentality does more harm than good. While the hashtags themselves aren’t harmful, Pabón-Colón emphasised that their stereotypes are limiting. She argued that “the label ‘boy’ cannot possibly contain [a child’s] personality traits,” and that there’s more to any one person than their sex or gender. “Having a vulva does not explain a child’s desire to have a tea party with their dad any more than having a penis explains a child’s desire to climb a tree with their mom,” Pabón-Colón said. The Independent has contacted Laura Elizabeth Graham for comment. 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Need a pick-me-up after lunch? An Italian woman has argued that there’s one coffee choice you should avoid. Italian social media entertainer, The Pasta Queen, has advised her followers to stop ordering a cappuccino in the middle of the day. The popular foodie, whose real name is Nadia Caterina Munno, took to social media to explain why most Italians don’t drink the hot beverage past noon. In her video, an individual behind the camera asked Munno if she would like a cappuccino, to which she firmly replied: “No.” “Why do Italians not drink cappuccinos past 12?” she rhetorically asked. Then, she slammed her hand down on the counter before answering: “Because it’s a breakfast drink.” But that’s not the only reason why. Munno explained how coffee has the ability to “awaken your senses”, which is why cappucinos should only be consumed before 10 in the morning. “If you really want to push it till 11, but not 12,” she added. Munno also said that consuming a copious amount of food in the middle of the day shouldn’t be washed down with a cappuccino, because there’s already “enough going on”. While after lunch may not be the proper time to drink a cappuccino, other coffee options are not off the table. Munno suggested an espresso for the perfect energy boost, but regular drip coffee works fine, too. “When you’re eating a meal, you have enough going on with all those calories and cheeses,” she remarked. “All you need is a quick espresso.” The passionate pasta lover pointed out how drinking a cappucino would elicit the same reaction from Italians that Americans would display if someone chose to eat a hot dog for breakfast. Thousands of her 2.2m followers flooded the comments with their food etiquette suggestions. Some admitted they had tried to order a cappuccino in Italy, but their server refused to give them one. Other individuals refuted Munno’s message, adding that they also ate hot dogs for breakfast. “The delicious thing to do in Italy is let them believe they can control your food. Then drink and eat what you want, where you want, and when you want,” one critic commented, while another added: “I’ll drink my cappuccino when I want. To me, it’s like a dessert.” “Filipino here with our hot dogs with garlic rice and egg,” a viewer wrote. Meanwhile, another skeptic said: “If it is in my cup, I can drink at 8 pm too. 3 am too. My cup, my rules.” One experienced asserted: “I can vouch for this... I am Italian and know of this ‘rule’ yet it did not phase me… I still ordered my cappuccinos in the afternoon and watched several natives enjoying one as well.” “It’s just steamed milk with espresso? Not sure what the big deal is? I say drink what you want, when you want. Respectfully,” she continued, while another Instagram user agreed: “I’m Italian and I love drinking cappuccino in the afternoon.” The Independent has reached out to Munno for a comment. Read More Starbucks' pumpkin spice latte turns 20, beloved by millions and despised by some Starbucks releases new fall menu with two brand-new drinks: ‘Pure joy’ Should I give up Diet Coke? With aspartame under suspicion, an addict speaks Dorshi, Dorset, restaurant review: Funky dumplings are a hit on the south coast National Burger Day 2023: Where to eat the best burgers in London In-N-Out owner reveals where ‘animal style’ name comes from

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