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Of all the sweet dishes in the world, you wouldn’t expect the simple flan to be so well-travelled,” says chef Jeremy Pang. “Yet when you look at the simplicity of its ingredients – essentially a sweetened and flavoured egg custard – you can see why so many cultures have adopted the flan into their own cuisines. “This coffee-flavoured version is found in most coffee shops in Vietnam, but it’s also one of the most popular desserts in the Philippines.” Coffee and coconut flan Makes: 10 Ingredients: For the caramel: 300g caster sugar 300ml water For the custard: 6 large eggs, at room temperature 400ml coconut milk 300ml condensed milk 1 shot of strong espresso (swapsies: 2 tbsp good-quality instant coffee dissolved in 1 tbsp hot water) Whipped cream, fresh fruit or sugared peanuts, to decorate Method: 1. Stand 10 ramekins in an ovenproof dish or a deep-sided baking tray. Preheat the oven to 160C/350F/gas mark 4. 2. For the caramel, place the sugar and water in a saucepan on a low heat and stir for three to four minutes, until the sugar fully dissolves. Increase the heat to high and allow the sugar syrup to boil vigorously, without stirring, for about five to six minutes until it reaches a rich golden brown colour, taking care to ensure it doesn’t burn. Once ready, carefully and without hesitation, divide the caramel between the ramekins to form a layer of caramel on the base of each one. 3. For the custard, crack the eggs into a large mixing bowl, add the coconut milk and condensed milk, and beat well to form a thick, smooth mixture. Add the coffee and stir in, then strain the custard through a fine mesh sieve into a jug. Divide evenly between the ramekins. 4. Pour boiling water into the ovenproof dish until level with the top of the custard in the ramekins, being careful not to get any in the flans. Bake for 45 minutes to one hour, depending on size, until set. Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly, then remove the ramekins from the hot water, taking care not to burn yourself. Allow to cool completely before serving. 5. To serve, loosen the rim of each flan using a dampened finger and then turn out onto a serving plate. Decorate with whipped cream, fresh fruit or sugared peanuts. ‘Jeremy Pang’s School Of Wok: Simple Family Feasts’ (Hamlyn, £22). Read More Marina O’Loughlin is wrong – there’s joy in solo dining Budget Bites: Three recipes to keep food bills down before pay day Meal plan: Romesco chicken and other recipes to fall in love with The chef who hated food as a child Midweek comfort food: Singaporean curry sauce and rice How to make Thai favourite lemongrass chicken stir-fry

Jeremy Pang doesn’t have a classic chef origin story: he “hated” food as a child. Before he turned 10, the chef, teacher and owner of the School of Wok in London admits: “I hated eating – I honestly did not like food. “Up to the age of, like, nine, it would take my mum two, three hours to get my dinner down me. I just didn’t want to eat – I wanted to go out and play football with my mates. I wanted to go and do stuff and play – I also wanted to eat fish fingers and all the stuff my friends were eating at home.” Pang grew up in a Chinese household and is a third-generation chef. When he was 10 years old, his family moved from the UK to Singapore for two years. Now aged 39 and based in southwest London, Pang says upon making the move, his “life completely changed”. He says: “When you go into hawker centres [open-air food markets] in Singapore, it’s a different world. Every single stall is a specialist in one type of food – not even cuisine. So you might have one uncle who has cooked chicken rice for his whole life, or another person who has cooked Hokkien Mee [a stir-fried noodle dish] for 40 years. “When people are as specialist as that, you cannot not want to eat it. And you see everyone digging into their food with no real etiquette – but the etiquette is the enjoyment of that bowl of food.” From there, Pang says Singapore “opened mine and my sister’s horizons” and he fell in love with food. With Singapore’s proximity to other Southeast Asian countries, he was exposed to a variety of cuisines – from Indonesian to Malaysian – many of which are taught at the School of Wok, along with the Chinese food Pang grew up with. With two kids of his own, aged six and two, Pang says: “I now feel so sorry for my mum.” Before the Covid-19 pandemic, the chef says of his oldest: “It was really difficult to get him to enjoy anything that wasn’t raw carrot or cucumber – which actually is healthy at least, but every day? That’s hard.” The pandemic shifted his son’s eating habits. Pang took a couple of months off and “cooked with him – we started making homemade pizzas, flapjacks – anything he wanted to make. He definitely at that point thought he had more of a Western palate, but I’ve known since he was really young and started eating that he does love Chinese food. “He likes the slightly lighter palate, and home-cooked Chinese food can be quite light – steamed fish, flash-fried vegetables, things like that.” One constant from Pang’s childhood to his family life now is the concept of feasting – serving multiple dishes for one meal. “This is how Asian cuisine is eaten, and should be eaten,” he says simply. “My style of cooking is 100 per cent home cooking anyway, and I’ve grown up with it. If you are Asian, that’s just a way of life. But if you’re not, it’s hard to compute how to get four or five dishes on the table, all hot or in the right state at the right time.” He continues: “Even if when we’re doing midweek meals at home, if I’m cooking Chinese or Southeast Asian just for the four of us, I’ll quite often cook two or three dishes. Those two or three dishes are there to be shared – that absolutely is our way of cooking and eating.” Pang’s latest book, Simple Family Feasts, is all about demystifying this concept for home cooks who haven’t grown up with it. Each chapter is dedicated to a different cuisine – including Chinese, Vietnamese, Singaporean and Indonesian – and shows you how to build a feast, guiding you through which dishes to make and in what order. Balance is crucial to pulling off a feast. “If, for example, you just ate crispy, deep-fried stuff – which is terribly bad for you, but we all love it – yes, you want to eat lots of it at the beginning. But five minutes later, you might get lost in that deep fried, crispy, greasy world, and so you’re likely to stop eating it at some point quite quickly. “But if you had something crispy, you have something opposite that melts in the mouth, you had something soft with a gentle bite, you had crunchy – usually from fresh vegetables or flash-fried vegetables, salads, anything like that – and you had a perfect balance of those textures. Honestly, I think you could just keep eating.” Growing up with this style of cooking must make Pang a brilliant multitasker – something he says is “a great skill to have”, but “sometimes it’s my worst enemy”. “I’m constantly multitasking – I get to the end of the day and I don’t know what’s happened, I sometimes can’t tell you what I’ve done in a day. I might have done a million different things… So in some ways, I’m very good at multitasking – but when I get home, my wife probably wouldn’t agree with that.” Like all of Pang’s cookbooks, this is an “ode to my father”, who passed away in 2009. “He’s the one who instilled that love of cooking and cuisine – especially Asian food. He never really taught me how to cook, he just said, ‘Stand and watch’, or, ‘Taste this and tell me what’s in it’. That was his style of teaching.” ‘Jeremy Pang’s School Of Wok: Simple Family Feasts’ (published by Hamlyn; £22). Read More Marina O’Loughlin is wrong – there’s joy in solo dining Budget Bites: Three recipes to keep food bills down before pay day Meal plan: Romesco chicken and other recipes to fall in love with Who knew a simple flan could be so well-travelled? Midweek comfort food: Singaporean curry sauce and rice How to make Thai favourite lemongrass chicken stir-fry

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Gareth Wyn Jones, star of BBC series The Family Farm, has launched a search for a butcher who will help him hunt and prepare grey squirrels to be used in burgers. The farmer, 56, plans to serve up the invasive squirrel as part of the menu at his pop-up restaurant in the forthcoming Welsh Game Fair at the Faenol Estate, near Bangor, in September. Jones launched an appeal to help him source grey squirrels and is encouraging visitors to the fair to think of the non-native rodent as “any other wild food” when they tuck into his burgers. The pop-up will mark Jones’ first time running a restaurant. The farmer, who farms near Llanfairfechan in the foothills of the Carneddau Range, said: “Grey squirrels are not native to this country. They were introduced from America and they have led to the decline of our own red squirrel population. “Squirrel meat is like any other wild food, eating them is like foraging for anything else. We have to remember they are a pest. On the farm if I have too many rats, crows or whatever, I have to deal with them.” He added: “What’s the difference with squirrels? Their meat is a by-product so why waste it? It’s a fantastic wild food. “All I need now is an alternative butcher to supply the grey squirrels and it’ll be ready, steady, cook.” Grey squirrels from North America were introduced in the UK in the 1800s and are a major threat to native red squirrel populations. They outcompete the red squirrels for food and space, as they are prolific breeders. Grey squirrels also carry a virus called squirrelpox, which they are actually immune to, but can spread the disease to red squirrels, therefore decimating the local populations. The Woodland Trust describes the introduction of grey squirrels in the UK as having had a “disastrous impact” on red squirrels, which are the UK’s only native squirrel species. Red squirrels are a legally protected species. It is illegal to intentionally kill, injure or disturb them. Jones, who has more than a million followers across his social media channels combined, said the best way to “change things” is to eat “food that’s been produced here”, including game like grey squirrel. James Gower, chief executive of Stable Events, the organiser of the Welsh Game Fair, said: “Our aim is to celebrate everything that is best about the countryside and rural pursuits, including the wider benefits of conservation and field sports. “The pop up restaurant will provide a real showcase for the finest fare the countryside has to offer,” he added. “I can’t think of a better mine host than Gareth Wyn Jones who is passionate about promoting proper local produce – and has great likeability. “The idea of putting squirrel burgers on the menu is inspired because it means we can find a good use for a real rural pest and tantalise people’s tastebuds at the same time.” Read More Men sometimes need help – and I’m determined to start asking for it ‘Oblivious’ woman defended after walking through beach wedding: ‘They don’t own the beach’ King’s Guard shares sweet exchange with young boy wearing royal uniform

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