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Danish pastries are world-famous, but what do you know about the rest of Scandinavian cuisine? With a food philosophy that centres around seasonal produce, perhaps the Scandi approach to cooking is the way forward when considering the environment and the cost-of-living crisis. “It’s very seasonal, lots of vegetables and very clean flavours,” Copenhagen-based chef and food writer Trine Hahnemann says of Danish cuisine. “So salt, pepper, nutmeg; salt, pepper, lemon; salt, pepper, vinegar – it’s not bland at all, we use spices, but we use them one at a time.” Hahnemann, 58, says this emphasis on seasonality helps save money. “It becomes too expensive to buy vegetables that are out of season, that are shipped or whatever,” she explains – but she’s all to aware that the Danish food scene is a bit of a paradox. She mentions produce “that have become everyday things, which people eat every day – like cucumbers, tomatoes and bananas. You can’t convince people there’s also a season for bananas – it’s year round, all the time. They’re the biggest fruit in Denmark”. This doesn’t stop Hahnemann advocating for eating the seasons – which in Denmark means you might be limited to root vegetables and potatoes in the winter. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, particularly as we’re now coming into summer and there’s a glut of fruit and vegetables available. Summer cabbage, radish, fennel, tomatoes, cucumbers, courgettes, strawberries, tomatoes – they’re all in her shopping basket during this time of year. Hahnemann is a salad fan, and she’s devoted a whole section of her new cookbook, Simply Scandinavian, to them. The chef argues people “don’t take [salads] seriously enough” – and opening a bag from the supermarket won’t quite cut it. “Buy a few vegetables, bake them nicely in the oven with either lemon juice and a little bit of a spice of some kind – it could be garam masala, it could be garlic – then always have a nice dressing. Spend some money on some good oils or good vinegars, because that’s where the flavours are. “Then think about texture… Texture means a lot when we eat.” The moral of the story? “Salads are amazing, because there are no rules – anything can become a salad,” she says. Hahnemann learned traditional Scandinavian cooking from her grandmother, saying: “My favourite dish when I was little that my grandmother would cook for me was meatballs with the cucumber salad.” Her grandma ever explicitly taught her how to make this dish – Hahnemann was instructed to help out, and eventually learned classic Danish recipes through osmosis. “It was much later in my 20s I realised what an amazing gift she’d given me without ever asking if I wanted to be involved – because I was involved, but I was never asked to be part of the cooking. I just saw it all tasted it,” Hahnemann says. Not that feeding Hahnemann was much of a chore: “When I was a child I loved everything. The only thing I didn’t like was a well-done omelette, that was the only thing I couldn’t eat when I was little.” Hahnemann’s grandmother also taught her how to bake, drawing upon the traditional recipes Denmark is famous for. As a child, she practised baking while living on a commune with her parents in the Sixties and Seventies. “There was this idea that children, their creativity should be nurtured, you shouldn’t put limits on things. So I baked all these horrible cakes and the grown-ups would eat them and say, ‘Oh, it’s wonderful Trine’ – and it was nothing like that,” Hahnemann remembers with a laugh. It was only when someone in the commune started giving her tips on beating the butter and sugar before adding the rest of the ingredients that “all of a sudden this world opened up to me about baking”. Hahnemann still uses baking as a tool when she’s “really stressed out”, and has a bakery in Copenhagen putting the spotlight on traditional Scandinavian bakes like cardamom buns and rye bread. She says baking is “the most important thing” about Scandinavian cuisine. “Because of the rye bread, and the whole lunch concept of open sandwiches on the rye bread. The whole breakfast is about bread, then you have all the celebratory baked goods – that you can say we now eat on a more regular basis.” While Hahnemann accepts some “traditions are disappearing, because everybody’s working so much”, she’s keen to keep the spotlight on traditional buns, breads and baking. When she recently taught a baking class, she was “so happy” to have a group of male friends in their 20s sign up, saying: “I think it’s important to keep it alive.” ‘Simply Scandinavian’ by Trine Hahnemann (Quadrille, £27).

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Michelin-starred chef David Chang has poured cold water on the idea that grilling burgers on a barbecue is the optimum way to cook them. The founder of Momofuku Ko, which has two Michelin stars, said that barbecuing patties only serves to turn them into “carbonised crap”, but people keep cooking them like this because of the socialising that is associated with cooking outdoors. On his podcast The Dave Chang Show, the controversial chef suggested that using a griddle to cook burgers is a superior method. Chang, 45, said: “Grills suck for burgers. We have assumed as a culture that in summer, we eat a burger and it’s grilled. “I actually think the grill is a horrible thing for the burger… I think this viewpoint could get me in trouble,” he admitted, but pressed on with his argument against the grill. “The success rate of the griddle is better than the grill, and also there’s no clean up, you have nothing to worry about.” The Korean-American restaurateur continued: “A juicy burger is going to turn into a guaranteed grease fire [on a barbecue], why use it? This whole idea of imparting flavour from the grill, the only flavour that’s being imparted is the carbonised crap that’s on it. “You would need to cook a burger over charcoal for 12 hours to get that smoky flavour. “A backyard burger is an experience that you try to convince yourself is better than it actually is,” he claimed. “It’s the nostalgia, it’s the smells, it’s your friends. But if you actually take it out of the context, it’s not that good.” Chang went on to allege that the close relationship between burgers and grills “is a marketing lie”. “How many places where you think have a good burger, cook it on a grill?” he challenged. However, he did have some praise for barbecued foods. Chang said that grilling corn was “clearly the only champion” and he “can’t think of anything else” that makes corn taste quite as good. Chang has previously shared his opinions on burgers that landed him in trouble. In 2015, he provoked the ire of Australians when he wrote in his blog Lucky Peach: “You know who f***s up burgers more than anyone else in the world. Australians. Australia has no idea what a burger is. “They put a fried egg on their burger. They put canned beetroot on it, like a wedge of it. I am not joking you. This is how they eat their burger.” He also laid waste to the use of wagyu – beef that comes from cattle that is bred in Japan and is highly prized for its marbled fat content – in burgers. In his “burger manifesto”, Chang wrote that it was “the dumbest burger in the world” to use wagyu. “It’s like 70 per cent fat content – it’s disgusting. Would you eat a ground bacon burger? That’s what you’re doing with a wagyu burger,” he said. “Or the idiots that have ‘kobe beef wagyu sliders with a trio of ketchup’ on their menu – that drives me insane.” The chef is also known for speaking candidly about his toxic behaviour while working in kitchens in the past. In his 2020 memoir Eat a Peach, Chang wrote: “When I’m angry, I seethe with such intensity that it can’t simply be emotional. It’s like I’m an animal registering danger.” Hannah Selinger, an award-nominated journalist, wrote in her essay for Eater that “in all my years of restaurant work, I had never seen anything like the roiling, red-faced, screaming, pulsing, wrath-filled man that was David Chang”. She worked as corporate beverage manager at the Momofuku restaurant group in 2008. Chang responded to Selinger’s essay and said that while he didn’t recall specific incidents mentioned by her, “they are entirely consistent with my behaviour at the time, which I did not begin to correct until several years later”. He added that “the bottom line is that I’m sorry”. Apart from his podcast, Chang also hosted Netflix’s travel and food series Ugly Delicious from 2018 to 2020. The show aired two series and featured celebrity guests including Jimmy Kimmel and Nick Kroll. Read More Walk this way... but not like that: How men’s walks became sexualised Jonnie Irwin makes rare red carpet appearance as he says ‘every day is a gift’ Influencers face backlash for promoting Shein factory during PR trip in China Budget Bites: Three light recipes that sing of summer Danny Dyer explains why he has a Toby Carvery Platinum Gold Card Three quick and easy plant-based fakeaways to create at home

Make the most of all the season has to offer by chowing down on bell peppers, courgettes, cauliflower and asparagus across three wonderfully, light dishes that sing summer. As part of our Budget Bites column – where we’ve teamed up with Sorted Food to bring you easy, affordable, quick and (most importantly) tasty recipes once a month – we’ve brought you three seasonal dishes that make the most of your staple ingredients while keeping your fresh shopping list minimal. We’ve also provided a handy shopping list for the ingredients (though hopefully most of it will be knocking about already), which are used across all recipes to ensure minimal food waste. You just need to decide where to shop, whether it’s locally or online. Shopping list 9 cloves garlic 20g fresh ginger 30g fresh basil 4 red bell pepper 2 courgette 5 spring onions 200g asparagus 1 lemon 1 cauliflower 1 red chilli 5 spring onion 40g unsalted butter 150g mozzarella ball 300g crème fraîche 1 x 250g ciabatta 1 vegetable stock cube 2 tbsp miso paste ½ tsp ground cumin ½ tsp ground coriander seed 1 tbsp mild chilli powder 2 tbsp sesame seeds 10g pine nuts 400g tinned chopped tomatoes 400g tinned butter beans 250g microwave Puy lentils Olive oil Vegetable oil Sesame oil Red pepper soup with basil salsa If you can get your hands on Romano red peppers, give them a go – they will provide a little more sweetness. Serves: 2 Ingredients: 4 red bell pepper 4 cloves garlic 6 tbsp olive oil ½ ciabatta (1x 250g) 20g fresh basil 10g pine nuts 400g tinned chopped tomatoes 150g mozzarella ball Method: 1. Preheat: Preheat the oven to 180C. 2. Prep the peppers: Deseed and thinly slice 4 bell peppers, then peel and thinly slice 3 cloves of the garlic – we will use the other clove of garlic later. 3. Preheat the pan: Add 2 tbsp of the oil to a large saucepan and place it over a medium heat. 4. Fry the peppers and garlic: Once the oil begins to shimmer and loosen, tip in the peppers, garlic, and a pinch of salt. Fry for 12-15 minutes, stirring occasionally until soft and jammy. Get on with the rest of the dish in the next steps while you wait. 5. Prep the bread: Cut 1 ciabatta in half and wrap half in clingfilm – we will use this for another recipe in the pack if you haven’t used it already. Cut some of what remains into small 0.5cm cubes and rip the rest into bite-sized chunks. 6. Get ready to bake: Toss the small cubes with 1 tbsp of oil and a generous pinch of salt on a small baking tray. Spread everything out into an even layer on the tray. 7. Bake: Bake in the oven for 8-10 minutes, until deep golden brown and crisp. Get on with the rest of the dish in the next steps while you wait. 8. Assemble the salsa: Add the leaves from 20g of basil to a measuring jug, along with 10g of pine nuts, 3 tbsp of oil, and a generous pinch of salt. 9. Blend the salsa: Blend until smooth and pesto-like, then give the hand blender a rinse – we will need it later. 10. Add the tomatoes: Once the peppers are ready, add 1 x 400g tin of tomatoes and a generous pinch of salt. 11. Add the bread and simmer: Add the ripped up chunks of bread from earlier (not the small cubes), and 150ml of water. Simmer for a further 5-7 minutes, until the bread starts to break up – this will thicken the soup. 12. Wash up: While you wait for the bread to break down, crack on with a bit of washing up. 13. Blend: Once the bread has broken down a bit, take the pan off the heat and blend until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 14. Serve: Divide 1 x 150g ball of mozzarella between 2 serving bowls, then ladle over the soup. Spoon over the basil salsa, scatter over the crispy ciabatta, and dive in! Summer stew with dukkah croutons We use ground spices but if time is on your side, try toasting whole spices and then blending them to amp up the flavours! Serves: 2 Ingredients: 2 courgette 5 spring onions 200g asparagus 2 cloves garlic 400g tinned butter beans 1 vegetable stock cube 1 tbsp miso paste 40g unsalted butter ½ ciabatta (1x 250g) ½ tsp ground cumin ½ tsp ground coriander seed 2 tbsp sesame seeds 3 tbsp vegetable oil 100g crème fraîche 10g fresh basil 1 lemon Method: 1. Preheat: Preheat the oven to 180C, this will be for the bread later. 2. Prep the veg: Cut 2 courgettes in half lengthways, then cut them crossways at 1cm intervals. Cut 5 spring onions in quarters crossways, then repeat with 200g of asparagus. Peel and finely grate 2 cloves of garlic. 3. Assemble the stew: Add the courgettes, spring onions, and garlic to a medium saucepan along with 1 undrained 400g tin of butter beans, 1 stock cube, 1 tbsp of miso, and 40g of butter. 4. Get the stew on: Add 400ml of water, then place the pan over a high heat. 5. Simmer: Once the stew comes up to a boil, reduce the heat to medium and simmer for 4-5 minutes, until the courgettes soften slightly. Get on with the rest of the dish in the next steps while you wait. 6. Prep the bread: Cut 1 ciabatta in half and wrap half in clingfilm – we will use this for another recipe in the pack if you haven’t used it already. Rip what remains into bite-sized chunks and add them to a medium baking tray. 7. Get ready to roast: Toss the bread with ½ tsp of cumin, ½ tsp of ground coriander seed, 2 tbsp of sesame seeds, 3 tbsp of oil, and a generous pinch of salt. Spread everything out into 1 even layer. 8. Bake: Bake in the oven for 8-10 minutes, until deep golden brown and crisp. Get on with the rest of the dish in the next steps while you wait. 9. Add the asparagus: Once the courgettes have softened slightly, add the asparagus and simmer for a further 4-5 minutes, until the asparagus is soft but still has a slight bite. Crack on with a bit of washing up while you wait. 10. Season: Once the stew is ready, finely grate over the zest from 1 lemon, then season to taste with its juice and salt. 11. Serve: Divide the stew between bowls and spoon over 100g of crème fraîche. Finish with the leaves from 10g of basil and tuck in! Chilli roast cauliflower with ‘holy trinity’ lentils The “holy trinity” in this dish refers to a wonderful combination of spring onion, ginger and garlic that is often used throughout Chinese cookery. Serves: 2 Ingredients: 1 cauliflower 2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 tbsp mild chilli powder 200g crème fraîche 1 tbsp miso paste 5 spring onion 3 cloves garlic 20g fresh ginger 2 tbsp sesame oil 250g microwave Puy lentils 1 red chilli Method: 1. Preheat: Preheat the oven to 180C – this will be for the cauliflower later. 2. Prep the cauliflower: Cut the green leaves from 1 cauliflower, then use a small knife to cut small florets from the woody stalk in the centre. We won’t be using the stalk or the leaves for this recipe, but they work well in soups! 3. Get ready to roast: Toss the florets with 2 tbsp of vegetable oil, 1 tbsp of mild chilli powder, and a generous pinch of salt on a large baking tray. Ensure the florets are fully coated, then spread everything out into 1 even layer. 4. Roast: Roast in the oven for 20-25 minutes, until golden in places and soft throughout. Get on with the rest of the dish in the next steps while you wait. 5. Mix the creme fraiche and miso: Beat 200g of creme fraiche with 1 tbsp of miso paste in a small bowl and set aside – we will use this for garnish later. 6. Chop chop: Finely chop 5 spring onions, then peel and mince 3 cloves of garlic and 20g of ginger. 7. Preheat the pan: Add 2 tbsp of sesame oil to a large frying pan and place it over a medium-high heat. 8. Fry: Once the oil starts to shimmer and loosen, add the spring onions, garlic and ginger. Fry for 3-4 minutes, until fragrant and golden in places. 9. Add the lentils: Add 1 250g pouch of lentils to the pan and fry for a further 4-5 minutes, tossing regularly, until piping hot. Crack on with the rest of the dish in the next steps while you wait. 10. Prep the chilli: Thinly slice 1 red chilli – we will use this for garnish later. If you are still waiting for the lentils, now would be a great time to do a bit of washing up! 11. Serve: Spoon the miso creme fraiche onto plates and spread it out into large discs. Divide the lentils between the plates and add the roast cauliflower. Scatter over the red chilli and serve! In response to the rising cost of living, we have teamed up with Sorted Food to bring you easy, affordable, quick and (most importantly) tasty recipes once a month. Find out more about Sorted and their nifty meal-planning app Sidekick at sortedfood.com/sidekick. Read More Three quick and easy plant-based fakeaways to create at home The Union Rye, review: Finally, a decent restaurant in this charming East Sussex town Missing Glastonbury? Here’s how to have a festival feast at home Four berry sweet recipes that go beyond strawberries and cream Can you whip up the perfect burger in just five minutes? These are the viral TikTok recipes you have to make this Father’s Day

Visitors to a beach resort city in southwest Japan got a shock on Tuesday when they woke to discover the usually crystal-clear sea had turned an ominous shade of red -- after a local brewery sprung a leak.