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It’s possible that you’ve never paid much attention to London’s gallery and museum restaurants, but once you start looking for them, there are many. The British Museum’s Great Court Restaurant, under its iconic glass ceiling; Skye Gyngell’s temple to veg, Spring, at Somerset House; high-end tapas at José Pizarro at the Royal Academy of Arts. They’re not the edgiest joints in town, nor somewhere you’d drop in for an impromptu bite. Instead, what they’re great for is a gift – an art fix and a posh lunch or dinner as a day out. I have such a food-and-art pairing in mind when I take my dad to The Portrait, the new Richard Corrigan restaurant at the National Portrait Gallery. Tucked at the top of the Trafalgar Square building, in a former glass-edged event space where windows are filled with a pleasing cityscape of London rooftops, it opened on 5 July, the final touch to a major three-year renovation of the gallery that finished in June. It’s open for lunch Sunday to Tuesday, and both lunch and dinner Wednesday to Saturday. The Portrait also opened just days after the launch, to much fanfare, of Sir Paul McCartney’s NPG exhibition Eyes of the Storm. A behind-the-scenes look at The Beatles’ dizzying rise to fame in 1963 and ’64, followed by fine dining, sounds right up mine and my dad’s street – a classic central London day out. The NPG has certainly had a glow-up since I last visited. A polished new entrance hall and welcome desk, gliding escalators, vividly painted galleries and rehung portraits. After marvelling at McCartney’s handwritten lyrics to I Wanna Hold Your Hand, and the youthful ease and joy of an off-duty John Lennon frolicking in Miami, we drop in on the Tudors before heading up to The Portrait. It’s a rather corporate-feeling but convivial scene, with linen-trousered and pastel-shirted guests talking art over elegant plates of fish and meat, gleaming glassware and white napkins. What jazzes up the simple pine tables and steel-framed open kitchen is the view: a long, slim panorama featuring the National Gallery’s ornate dome, the London Eye, Nelson’s Column, the Houses of Parliament and the tower of St-Martin-in-the-Fields. Along one sloping wall is a butter-yellow mural of the gallery’s exterior, which marketing materials tell me are bespoke linen panels by wallpaper-maker-to-the-stars de Gournay – but otherwise the Brady Williams Studio has kept the design light and minimal, letting the view, and the food, do the talking. Here’s what it has to say: instantly intriguing things about artichoke with crab mayonnaise and kombu (kelp seaweed powder), “snails bolognaise” over conchigliette, a duck heart vol au vent, pig’s trotter with borlotti beans and something described only as “cauliflower, yeast, seeds”. (We skip that one.) Much of it is what you’d expect from Corrigan – earthy flavours from the UK and Ireland, plenty of fish and veg present, but with a few curiosities thrown in. We kick off with Carlingford oysters zinged up with ginger, lime and coriander – “This is no stuffy seafood restaurant”, they clearly declare. My dad is presented with his artichoke starter, a glorious fan of outer petals cupping a nicely roasted centre, topped with a crab-rich seafood sauce and umami-packed powder. Both are light, flavour-packed and made for a champagne toast. Next we dig into that escargots bolognese, and pork with barigoule of fennel and apricot mustard. The bolognese is rich and nicely seasoned with a pleasantly meaty texture, but the pasta shells fall slightly flat with a fairly bland, creamy sauce; I long for a more moreish dish where the pasta enhances rather than simply supports the bolognese. The Huntsham’s Farm pork wins more points with its melting richness, set off by the vinegary tang of the fennel and peppery-fruity sauce. Our friendly and approachable waiter talks through some wine-by-the-glass options for us, picking out a refreshing Sauvignon Blanc and a Chianti to suit our respective dishes. Service is quick and efficient, but with no trace of being rushed through and out – there’s plenty of time to linger and talk over the view. Which we do for well over an hour and a half, given we can hear each other clearly (always a bonus for a dad and daughter meet-up). Unusually for both of us, we indulge in a pudding: I can’t resist the English cherries with goat’s milk ice cream, a fabulous clash of jammy sweetness and savoury tartness. Dad goes for the rum baba, soaked in a generous boozy sauce with enough fresh pineapple to cut through the sweetness. Like our choices of sides – olive oil mash and broccolini with almonds – everything is instantly appealing while having some sort of flourish we may not have had before. When I thought of a gallery lunch, I pictured perfectly fine fish fillets and chicken cutlets, rather than my first snail pasta dish, my first goat’s milk ice cream and my first Asian-spiced oyster all in one sitting. With dainty-portioned mains at £22-£32, there are no bargain bites, but the style of food and the option of set menus (£28 for two courses, £35 for three) feels nicely suited to an exhibition ticket as a present or treat. You could easily jazz up that £28 prix fixe with a £15 glass of champagne or The Portrait’s strawberry and balsamic bellini. A meal here can be as good value and restrained or lavish and decadent as you make it – surely true of any day out in the capital. And with most of the National Portrait Gallery free to view (not to mention freshened up, with the visitor experience streamlined) it’s a fabulous upgrade for a low-key afternoon of art. The Portrait Restaurant, The National Portrait Gallery, St Martin’s Place, London WC2H 0HE | 020 3872 7610 | theportraitrestaurant.com Read More The Union Rye, review: Finally, a decent restaurant in this charming East Sussex town Forest Side: Heavenly Cumbrian produce elevated to Michelin-starred proportions Papi: Pandemic troublemakers’ restaurant is a fun, flirty hit The dish that defines me: Alex Outhwaite’s Vietnamese bun cha 3 TikTok-approved recipes for picnic season It’s easier to make baklava at home than you might think

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Tom Kerridge has defended charging £35 for fish and chips in luxury department store Harrods, explaining the quality of the ingredients and labour that go into the dish. The celebrity chef, 49, came under fire earlier this year for the costly dish at Kerridge’s Fish and Chips, which comprises of line-caught turbot and hand-cut potato chips. Some angry customers called the portion of fish “scrawny”, while others criticised the “thimbles of sauce” that accompanied the dish. But the Michelin-starred Kerridge – who has dealt with criticism of his prices in the past, including for an £87 sirloin steak in his Buckinghamshire pub – detailed the difference between his dish and a regular chippy’s fish and chips. Speaking to the Radio Times, Kerridge said that the backlash no longer affects him and he’s “learnt to deal with it”. “I’m seen as a man of the people, so when I put fish and chips on for £35, they shout at me for it being expensive,” he said. “But the people criticising me don’t understand how it’s priced. Fish and chips was always seen as cheap, fast food, and I get that because of where I grew up.” Kerridge went on to explain the supply chain behind a portion of fish and chips, saying: “The fish in most chippies is frozen at sea, in a big block, a year ago, then cut up and portioned. “The potatoes are maybe four weeks old, have gone through a chipper, been cleaned and put into cheap oil. They’re wrapped in paper, with malt vinegar and salt.” Kerridge clarified that he does “love” regular fish and chips, but that the dish he serves in Harrods is different. “At Harrods, it’s line-caught, day-boat turbot,” the Great British Menu judge said, referring to fish that is caught using traditional fishing methods by fishermen who go out to sea and return on the same day. “The potatoes are specifically sourced for their sugar and starch content, then individually cut up by a person. It’s bespoke dining in the most exclusive and beautiful shop in the world. Of course it’s expensive,” he added. In 2021, Kerridge defended the prices at his pub, arguing that they “include everything, VAT and service”. “No additional service charge at all. Also I pay staff properly and treat their job as a professional career. Perhaps the real cost of dining should be addressed,” he tweeted in response to a critic. “Unpretentious does not mean cheap. Also, why is profit a bad word?” Kerridge opened his first pub, The Hand and Flowers, alongside his wife Beth in 2005. Within a year, he had gained his first Michelin star. Since then, the TV personality has been given three Michelin stars, including a second for The Hand and Flowers, and the third for The Coach. He has appeared on numerous TV programmes such as MasterChef and Saturday Kitchen, and currently presents Food and Drink for BBC Two. Read More Sorry lads, we just can’t afford any more reckless, middle-aged adventurers Cruise line apologises after passengers witness dozens of pilot whales being slaughtered Delia Smith denounces vegan diets as ‘wrong’: ‘Don’t say you’re helping the planet’ 3 TikTok-approved recipes for picnic season Fans swoon over Stanley Tucci cooking dinner for Robert Downey Jr at ‘Casa Tucci’ The dish that defines me: Alex Outhwaite’s Vietnamese bun cha

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Grab your baskets and your blankets because it’s National Picnic Month (AKA it’s summer guys, just get out there). Nothing says dining al fresco in Britain than a sausage roll, but the recipe for honey and mustard sausage rolls below is so incredibly good you’ll want to make them all the time. The same goes for sandwiches, as long as they’re not soggy. Sometimes you dream about sandwiches, hoping they’ll be as delicious as you dreamed. Well, the mortadella, pesto, burrata focaccia sandwich with garlic confit aioli one below is. It has crisp pesto focaccia, pesto, burrata, mortadella, rocket and a homemade garlic confit aioli. Don’t forget dessert! These elderflower and raspberry jellies are so easy to make, transport and, most importantly, devour. Honey and mustard sausage rolls These honey and mustard sausage rolls are so incredibly good you’ll want to make them all the time. We’re using Asda’s Extra Special Orange Blossom Honey sourced from bees that feed on orange blossom in Spain and Mexico giving it a sweet citrus scent. Stirred into the filling and mixed with some fresh thyme to drizzle over the hot pastry when they come out of the oven. Just heaven! Serves: 6-8 Prep time: 35 minutes | Cook time: 25-30 minutes Ingredients: For the filling: 1 pack of Asda’s Extra Special Cumberland Sausages 1 heaped tbsp grainy mustard 1 tbsp Asda Honey Blossom Honey 2 tbsp chopped parsley Salt and pepper 1 sheet ready rolled puff pastry 1 egg, beaten Sprinkle of sesame seeds For the drizzle: 5 sprigs of thyme, leaves only 1 tbsp honey For the dip: 3 tbsp mayonnaise 1 tbsp grainy mustard Method: Preheat the oven to 200C. Line a baking tray with parchment. Remove the sausages from their skins and place the sausage meat in a bowl. Add the mustard, honey, parsley and season well. Stir to combine. Place the pastry on a board and cut in half lengthways. Divide the pork mixture in two. Place one portion of the meat on the long edge of one piece of pastry and shape into a sausage roll shape, pinching the seam and rolling it over so the seam is underneath. Repeat with the other roll. Brush with some beaten egg. Slice into portions and scatter with sesame seeds. Place on a baking tray and bake for 25-30 mins until golden and cooked through. For the drizzle, heat the honey gently in a pan for a minute and add the chopped thyme. Drizzle over the hot sausage rolls just before serving and serve with the mustard mayo dip. Enjoy! Mortadella, pesto, burrata focaccia sandwich with garlic confit aioli Sometimes you dream about sandwiches, hoping they’ll be as delicious as you dreamed. Well, this one is. It has crisp pesto focaccia, pesto, burrata, mortadella, rocket and a homemade garlic confit aioli. Serves: 1 Prep time: 15 minutes Ingredients: For the garlic confit aioli: 10 garlic confit cloves 1 cup garlic confit olive oil 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 egg Pinch of flakey sea salt For the sandwich: 2 slices pesto focaccia 1 x burrata 4 tbsp green basil pesto 75g Italian mortadella 25g wild rocket Method: Make the garlic confit aioli: Place all ingredients into a glass container or jug that is just wide enough to fit a hand blender. Blend all ingredients together while slowly incorporating all of the oil. Continue until you have a thick consistency. Store in an airtight container or jar in the fridge for up to 3 days. Assemble the sandwich: Cut your focaccia into thirds lengthways. Slice 1 piece of the focaccia in half. Drizzle cut side with olive oil and toast in a pan until golden. Assemble your sandwich by beginning with a layer of the garlic aioli, a spoon of pesto, followed by slices of the mortadella, burrata, torn in two, and rocket, finished with a pinch of salt and pepper. Top with the other half of the focaccia and cut in half. Enjoy! Elderflower and raspberry jellies These elderflower and raspberry jellies were always on the menu when I catered for parties and people always chose them. They were so popular, and they’re so easy to make. Serves: 6 Prep time: 15 minutes | Cooling time: 4 hours overnight Ingredients: 8 sheets leaf gelatin 350ml elderflower cordial 1 punnet raspberries Cream or ice cream (to serve) Method: Soak the gelatin in cold water for a few minutes, then drain. Pour 100ml of boiling water over the gelatin and stir to fully dissolve. Allow to cool for a couple of minutes, then stir in the elderflower cordial and 250ml of cold water. (I always wet the inside of the jelly mould if I’m planning on turning the jellies out afterwards before I add the jelly mixture). Divide the raspberries into glasses or ramekins or a large glass bowl and pour over the liquid. Cover and put in the fridge to set for at least 4 hours-it works best if left overnight. (If you want the berries to be suspended in the jellies, pour a third of the mixture into the moulds and set in the fridge, then add the berries so they lie on top of the set layer and pour over the remaining mixture). To remove from the mould, if using, dip the bottom briefly into a bowl of hot water, cover with a slightly larger plate and with one confident movement, invert the mould so that the jelly lands neatly onto the plate. Serve the jelly with cream or ice cream. Read More The dish that defines me: Alex Outhwaite’s Vietnamese bun cha It’s easier to make baklava at home than you might think Get set for Wimbledon with top pastry chef’s strawberry recipes Pinch of Nom: Healthy eating doesn’t have to cost the earth ‘Deliciously indulgent’ one-pot chilli mac and cheese Can’t decide between a cookie or a brownie? Now you don’t have to

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