Bjork’s controversial swan dress to go on display in new exhibition
The swan dress worn by Icelandic singer Bjork to the 2001 Oscars will be part of a new exhibition celebrating rebellious fashion. The outfit – by Macedonian designer Marjan Pejoski – was controversial at the time, as it was a huge departure from the black tie gowns normally seen on the red carpet. It’s gone on to take a prominent place in fashion and pop culture history, and this will be the first time it’s been seen in the UK, since it was created over 20 years ago. The swan dress will join ensembles worn by Harry Styles, Rihanna and Sam Smith at a new exhibition at the Design Museum called Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion. The exhibition will feature nearly 100 looks from designers who have taken part in the NewGen initiative – a scheme run by the British Fashion Council (BFC) that supports emerging fashion talent. It will include trousers made from deadstock materials designed by Steven Stokey Daley and worn by Harry Styles for his 2020 music video Golden, as well as a replica of the inflatable latex jumpsuit worn by Sam Smith at the 2023 Brit Awards, designed by Harri. Other looks include the voluminous blue ruffled dress by Molly Goddard – worn by Rihanna in 2017 in an Instagram post which garnered 1.7 million likes – and a Nasir Mazhar headpiece modelled by Lady Gaga. Covering the last 30 years of fashion, the exhibition isn’t organised chronologically – instead, each room will cover themes, including colour (featuring work from Ashish, Richard Quinn and Mary Katrantzou), art school (Molly Goddard and S. S. Daley) and the club scene (with pieces from Halpern and Gareth Pugh). One room will be entirely dedicated to trailblazing designer Alexander McQueen, who was one of the first recipients of NewGen support. “It is impossible to underestimate the influence London has on Britain’s fashion talent, a city that produces wave after wave of young designers that value originality, wearing what you believe in, and tackling social issues to make a better world,” said Sarah Mower, BFC ambassador for emerging talent and guest curator of Rebel. The exhibition shows pieces from when each designer was taking part in the NewGen scheme – and some of them are now household names, such as Erdem and Northern Irish designer JW Anderson. “Only showing looks and accessories and supporting materials that were produced while the designer was receiving NewGen support has meant that we have the most extraordinary insight into early careers of designers that are incredibly familiar today,” said Rebecca Lewin, Design Museum curator. The exhibition will open in September, to coincide with the new season of London Fashion Week and to celebrate 30 years of the NewGen programme, which has supported more than 300 designers over the years. Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion sponsored by Alexander McQueen will open at the Design Museum in London on September 16 and will run until February 11, 2024. Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live Chrissy Teigen welcomes fourth child – how does surrogacy actually work? 11 ways to work the colour clash trend at home Heart disease digital check-ups for over 40s being rolled out
2023-06-29 18:27
What is colour analysis and why is TikTok obsessed with it?
The latest fashion trend to go viral online doesn’t involve a hot new denim style or designer handbag – it’s about overhauling your entire wardrobe with the help of colour analysis. Professional stylists and amateur enthusiasts alike have been sharing videos of fashionistas swathed in swatches of fabric as they endeavour to discover the palette of colours that suits them best. Also known as ‘finding your colours’, the topic is exploding on social media, with millions of video views on TikTok and 100k posts under #colouranalysis on Instagram. “TikTok users love educational content and transformation stories,” says Cliff Bashforth, managing director of Colour Me Beautiful, which provides personal colour consultations. “Colour analysis provides a captivating narrative, and the system can be proven by displaying ‘before and after’ makeovers, good and bad colours on an individual and colour combinations.” While trends like this year’s ubiquitous Barbie pink will keep popping up from time to time, consumers are increasingly rejecting the idea of ‘must-have’ pieces and adopting a more personalised approach. “With the general conscience turning away from fast fashion, colour analysis is a good way to ensure you’re buying something that will suit you perfectly and last a lifetime,” says Megan Watkins, head stylist at SilkFred. What are the benefits of colour analysis? “For many people, finding their most flattering shades of clothing (and make-up) is a life-changing experience,” says Bashforth. “Wearing your best shades of clothing enhances your natural colouring, brings out your individuality, boosts confidence, and ensures you always look your best, effortlessly expressing your personal style.” As well as guiding how you buy and style clothes, colour analysis can suggest flattering make-up and hair shades. Watkins says: “Finding the right colour palette for you will elevate your entire aesthetic and can even help with making your skin look brighter and minimise dark circles.” What happens at a colour analysis appointment? “It is a common misconception that ‘finding your colours’ is down to your hair colour or eye colour – it’s all about your skin,” says Watkins. “Your skin undertone stays the same no matter your age or how long you’ve been in or out of the sun, so assuming the colour analysis is done correctly, your colour palette will stay the same for the rest of your life.” At a professional colour analysis session, which can last up to two hours, a stylist will look at how different groups of shades look against your face. “Larger coloured swatches – known as ‘drapes’ in the trade – are used to test for the undertone, depth and clarity of the individual’s colouring,” Bashforth explains. “Some companies also use the seasonal method and categorise people into spring, summer, autumn, or winter. “At Colour Me Beautiful we start by explaining our 24-palette system so the client fully understands why he or she falls into a certain colouring type.” The stylist will talk through colour combinations, outfit ideas and make-up suggestions, and you’ll be given a fabric swatch to use as a guide for shopping. “No longer is an individual told ‘what colours to wear’,” Bashforth adds. “Instead a flexible approach has been adopted which means a client is shown ‘how to wear colour’ – it’s more about the shades of a hue, rather than the hue itself.” Can you do it yourself? While a thorough consultation with a specialist is the best way to find your perfect palette, there are some principles you can borrow to try some DIY colour analysis. “Gather up a variety of tops, knitwear etc. in warmer and cooler hues,” says Bashforth, starting with no make-up and wearing a top in a basic neutral shade. “In daylight, stand in front of a mirror and hold each garment up to your face, observing whether your complexion is enhanced and looks fresher, or your skin appears dull or pale.” You could also use the ‘vein test’ to see where you fall on the warm/cool divide. “All you need to do is check your wrist and see if your veins appear as a more green shade or if they appear to be a blue/purple hue,” says Watkins. “If you’re on the green side, this is classed as a warm tone, if you’re veering towards blue or purple then you’re on the cooler side of things.” She adds: “If you’re looking for a colour that suits just about everyone, primary red is a good bet as it partners well with every other colour on the colour wheel.” Leem Ruffled-Hem Woven Maxi Dress in Olive, £145, Selfridges Roman Blue Sleeveless Abstract Print Maxi Dress, £60 River Island Pink Ruched Sleeve Blazer, £65; Pink Wide Leg Pleat Trousers, £40 Oliver Bonas Gold & Yellow Striped Midi Dress, £79.50 Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live Dementia diagnosis could be sped up thanks to AI Reading for pleasure in childhood boosts brain health in teenage years – study Stan Wawrinka on setbacks, preparing for Wimbledon and friendship with Roger Federer
2023-06-29 14:52
Fans accuse Hailey Bieber of breaking wedding guest etiquette with ‘white’ dress: ‘Yikes’
Hailey Bieber has divided fans after she appeared to attend her friend Stephanie Shepherd’s wedding in a white dress. Over the weekend, Bieber, 26, was accompanied by her husband Justin Bieber as they attended the Beverly Hills nuptials, where they were joined by fellow celebrities including Kim Kardashian, Kris Jenner, and Malika Haqq, according to photos of the festivities shared by the DailyMail. For the occasion, the Rhode Skin founder opted for a white, backless, long-sleeved gown with a high neck. She paired the look, which she later shared photos of on Instagram, with teal eyeshadow, a pale blue fur purse, and simple jewellery. According to the photographs, Justin wore an oversized white button-down shirt and black pants for the wedding of Shepherd, Kardashian’s former assistant, while the Skims founder, her mother, and Haqq were all photographed in black gowns. On social media, Bieber’s outfit choice has sparked criticism from fans, with some questioning the model’s choice to wear white to a wedding. “The only thing I want to know is why the f**k you wore white to a WEDDING,” one person commented under Bieber’s photos, while another asked: “Why is she wearing white to a wedding???” “Isn’t it against wedding law to wear anything close to white to a wedding?” someone else wrote. “I’m not even hating but it’s a huge yikes…” According to Diane Gottsman, a national etiquette expert and founder of The Protocol School of Texas, who previously spoke to The Independent, the rule against wearing white still applies for most weddings, as she noted that “white is still reserved for the bride” and that guests “should select another colour” when choosing an outfit. As for why guests should avoid white for a wedding, wedding dress designer Madeline Gardner previously told The Knot that it comes down to “the most important thing to keep in mind,” not upstaging the bride. Although many of Bieber’s fans questioned her dress choice, others argued that the model’s dress was actually light blue. “Her dress is light blue, not white,” one person claimed in the comments under Bieber’s Instagram post, while another said: “Before y’all start with your think pieces… the dress is baby blue. She wore baby blue head to toe.” However, others suggested that, even if Bieber’s dress was light blue, the light shade meant that it was still a breach of wedding etiquette. “This is too close to white I fear,” one person tweeted. “Is it me or is that dress pretty much white,” someone else wrote in response to the photos of the couple. While most were in agreement that guests should generally avoid wearing white to a wedding, others pointed out that Shepherd may have requested that attendees wear either white or black to her nuptials. “The theme was white and black right? Because it doesn’t make sense for this woman to be in WHITE at a wedding. I’ll be giving the benefit of the doubt,” one person tweeted. Although Shepherd did not post photos from the wedding, Swizz Beats shared an album of photos taken during the reception, in which Alicia Keys could be seen wearing a green dress. Bieber was not the only guest who faced backlash over the outfit she wore to the wedding, as fans also questioned the appropriateness of Kardashian’s dress, which featured a bra-style top and a skirt with cut-out details. “Is she going to a club or a wedding?” one critic asked. Shepherd, who previously held the role of COO of Kardashian’s KKW company before parting ways with The Kardashians star, married Larry Jackson, the former global creative director at Apple Music who recently created music company Gamma. Olivia Wilde faced similar criticism earlier this year after she wore a white gown to Colton Underwood’s wedding to Jordan C Brown. The Independent has contacted a representative for Bieber for comment. Read More Man sparks debate about engagement etiquette after proposing at girlfriend’s college graduation Woman sparks debate about what makes a dress too similar to a wedding gown Olivia Wilde sparks etiquette debate after wearing ‘wedding dress’ to Colton Underwood’s nuptials Bride’s friend calls out ‘sad and disrespectful’ wedding guests over outfits Influencers called out for visiting and promoting Shein’s factory in China Gabourey Sidibe jokes she ‘needs to take a class’ on ‘boob tape’ Outfit choices for Barbie cast photo sparks hilarious reactions
2023-06-29 01:24
Influencers face backlash for promoting Shein factory during PR trip in China
A group of influencers have come under fire after posting glowing videos from their paid trip to a factory owned by controversial fast fashion retailer Shein in Guangzhou, China. Shein, which has been previously accused of labour abuse and admitted to breaching rules around working hours, brought the group of six fashion influencers from the US to tour its “Innovation Factory”. Influencer and model Dani Carbonari was one of the influencers who went on the trip and posted a video tour on her social media last week. After facing criticism from her followers – of which she was more than 481k on Instagram and nearly 300k on TikTok – Carbonari appears to have deleted the post. In her original post, she wrote in her caption that the trip to Shein’s factory gave her the opportunity to see with her “own two eyes what the entire process of Shein clothing looks like from beginning to end”. “I feel more confident than ever with my partnership with Shein. There are so many companies not taking half the initiative Shein is. They are aware of every single rumour and instead of staying quiet they are fighting with all of their power to not only show us the truth but continue to improve and be the best they can possibly be,” the “confidence activist” continued. The video showed a brightly lit factory, with staff working in clean, dust-free conditions and automated bots that assisted with processing and packaging orders. The other influencers, Destene Sudduth, Aujene, Fernanda Stephany Campuzano, Kenya Freeman, and Marina Saavedra, also shared similarly glowing Instagram posts about their visit. Viewers have pointed out that the influencers appeared to use a “script” for their posts, as they involved similar language. In her post, Saavedra said: “Like many others, I’ve heard a lot of misinformation”, while Carbonari wrote: “You have to remember our country is filled with so much prejudice – we want to believe we’re the best and no one else can be better.” @shein_us Get a glimpse of the process of how your purchases are packaged directly from our facility and delivered to your doorstep. Watch as our partners discover the cutting-edge tech that streamlines our operations and receive a hands-on experience in packaging. Stay tuned to the #SHEIN101 series to learn more of what goes on behind the scenes at #SHEIN #SHEINOnTheRoad ♬ original sound - SHEINUS But viewers have pointed out that the influencers’ comments about the Shein factory they saw – one of 6,000 factories that the online retailer has, according to Time magazine – do not address the allegations that have been levelled over Shein’s labour and environmental impact. Channel 4 launched an investigation last year that involved an undercover worker filming inside two Shein factories in Guangzhou and found that workers receive a base salary of 4k yuan per month (approximately £434) to produce 500 pieces of clothing per day. The investigation also found that workers in both factories were working up to 18-hour days regularly and were only given one day off a month. Later, Shein said that after conducting an independent investigation, it found that employees indeed working longer hours than the local laws allowed. Shein found that staff at one factory were working up to 13-and-a-half hour days with two to three days off a month, while those at the second site worked up to 12-and-a-half hour days with no fixed structure for days off. It said that “while these are significantly less than claimed in the documentary, they are still higher than local regulations permit”. At the time, Shein vowed to invest US$15m (£11.8m) to improve standards at its supplier factories. On Twitter, one person wrote: “Shein is sending the influencer girlies to China to some (PR) ‘innovation’ factory where it looks pristine and super clean and the workers are having fun while sewing and the company saying they pay a ‘competitive’ wage lol.” Another said: “The funniest part of the Shein debacle to me is the influencers acting like they went undercover to investigate. You were invited, of course, it’s PR.” A third added: “Them Shein influencers getting cooked and Shein ain’t [sic] defending them. Meanwhile, the girls are doing their best to explain to us why Shein ain’t too bad. It’s sad.” Shein told The Independent in a statement: “Shein is committed to transparency and this trip reflects one way in which we are listening to feedback, providing an opportunity to show a group of influencers how Shein works through a visit to our innovation center and enabling them to share their own insights with their followers. “Their social media videos and commentary are authentic, and we respect and stand by each influencer’s perspective and voice on their experience. We look forward to continuing to provide more transparency around our on-demand business model and operations.” The Independent has contacted Carbonari, Sudduth, Aujene, Campunazo, Freeman and Saavedra for comment. Read More Give Greenpeace a chance: Art and activism join forces for Glastonbury’s campaign for the future Harry and Meghan’s ‘lack of productivity’ left Spotify and Netflix bosses ‘underwhelmed’, report says A woman stopped cleaning after her husband accused her of doing ‘nothing’. Then she filmed the results
2023-06-28 04:20
Gabourey Sidibe jokes she ‘needs to take a class’ on ‘boob tape’ after wardrobe malfunction
Gabourey Sidibe made fans giggle after she shared a fashion blunder involving “boob tape” on her Instagram. The Precious star, 40, posted a mirror selfie showing herself wearing a bright green strappy dress with a plunging neckline. Peeking out from under the dress, however, was what appeared to be a mess of tape on both breasts. “Boob tape” is a skin-friendly tape that can be used to lift and shape breasts under clothing without needing to wear a bra. However, it can take some practice to get the taping right – as Sidibe demonstrated. She wrote in her post caption: “How y’all be doing Boob Tape? I might need to take a class.” Fans thought Sidibe’s wardrobe malfunction was relatable and hilarious, with many sharing their own troubles with boob tape. “I can’t figure that s*** out either girl,” one person wrote, while another appeared relieved: “All that tape, girl I thought you had surgery!” Another commenter said: “Can the class be on Zoom? I need to be in on the number.” Someone else added: “I just screamed, because me too.” Sidibe’s stylist Kelly Augustine appeared to despair at the American Horror Story star’s attempts to fix her own tape and commented: “Now Gabby [cry-laugh emoji] Please just call me next time.” In a follow-up post on her Instagram Stories, Sidibe posted another mirror selfie in the same dress but appeared much happier this time, with nothing showing from under her garment. “I figured out the t**ty tape!” she wrote on the post, which showed her sticking her tongue out and flashing the peace sign with her hand. Sidibe has previously spoken out about facing size discrimination from major fashion labels. Speaking at the Curvy Con during New York Fashion Week in 2018, she said she was forced to buy a dress from plus-size fashion retailer Torrid because no designers offered to dress her for her first major red carpet appearance at Cannes. She told Teen Vogue that she still faces such discrimination and designers often won’t dress her because she’s “too fat”. “Even though we are moving towards more visibility for plus-size people, there is a lot [of] pushback. So it’s important to keep fighting [and] to keep being visible until the conversation changes and [it] is no longer about our bodies because I’m not my body. I’m a whole person,” Sidibe told the magazine. Last December, Sidibe revealed that she secretly got married to her husband Brandon Frankel in 2021. She announced her engagement in November 2020. In an appearance on Live with Kelly and Ryan, she was asked about her wedding plans. Sidibe answered: “So, the thing about weddings is I don’t like them. Here’s an example of how much I don’t like weddings. I’m actually married. We got married over a year ago.” Sidibe said she and Frankel got “married at the kitchen table” in a very small ceremony that involved just the two of them. When she announced their engagement, the Empire star wrote: “Every moment with him is a joy. He is the partner I thought I was too independent to need. I’ve learned so much about myself through him and I feel grateful and excited to learn more about the entire world with him by my side.” Read More How dogs became my greatest adversary on the dating scene Influencers called out for visiting and promoting Shein’s factory in China Paralympian Ellie Simmonds reveals she was adopted as she reconnects with birth mother Influencers called out for visiting and promoting Shein’s factory in China Outfit choices for Barbie cast photo sparks hilarious reactions Princess Diana’s ‘black sheep’ jumper predicted to sell at auction for up to £70,000
2023-06-27 19:49
Barbie cast dressed in ‘sad beige’ outfits sparks hilarious reactions: ‘Why is Margot the only one in pink?’
The Barbie cast’s recent photocall has sparked hilarious reactions after fans noticed Margot Robbie was the only one dressed in the doll’s iconic pink, while the rest of the cast seemingly missed the memo with their beige attire. On 25 June, the Barbie cast gathered together in Los Angeles to promote the highly-anticipated live-action film, which is set to be released on 21 July. Robbie, who’s worn a number of Barbie-themed outfits throughout the movie’s press tour, continued her fashion streak with a pink polka-dot Valentino minidress for the event. Robbie’s stylist Andrew Mukamel seemingly confirmed her custom-made Barbiecore dress was inspired by one of the Mattel toy’s own outfits, the “Pink & Fabulous” Barbie from 2015, on Instagram, where he shared side-by-side photos of the outfits. The Australian actor accessorised the look with a pair of white Manolo Blahnik pumps and a yellow quilted Valentino purse with studs. However, it was the “sad beige” outfits worn by Robbie’s fellow Barbie cast mates that captured everyone’s attention. The 32-year-old actor was photographed alongside Barbie director Greta Gerwig and co-stars Ryan Gosling, Issa Rae, America Ferrera, Michael Cera, and Kate McKinnon. Gosling, who plays Barbie’s paramour Ken in the upcoming film, wore a cream-coloured cardigan over white T-shirt and black Levi’s jeans, while co-writer and director Gerwig opted for a beige pleated midi-skirt and taupe crewneck Prada sweater. Insecure alum Issa Rae also kept it neutral in a sand-coloured high-neck sleeveless top and matching trousers. America Ferrera, who plays a Mattel employee in the movie, wore an ivory lace Elie Saab tiered dress. Former Saturday Night Live star Kate McKinnon donned a grey, three-piece suit, while actor Michael Cera chose simple black pants, and black tee under a navy blue button-up shirt. Unsurprisingly, it was the Barbie cast’s neutral-themed outfits that had fans up in arms, with many taking to Twitter to criticise Robbie’s cast mates for the lack of dedication to the Barbie theme. “Only Margot knows her assignment,” tweeted one fan. “That’s why she’s Barbie.” “it should be illegal to wear any colour other than pink to a Barbie event,” another claimed, while someone else asked: “What’s going on with all the sad beige?” However, some fans believed that the drab fashion choice was actually intentional, like one person, who tweeted: “Everyone saying ‘why is Margot the only one in pink,’ bro she’s literally Barbie and I’m almost entirely certain everyone wearing beige but her is intentional”. “Actually maybe it was on purpose because what are the odds they’re all in neutrals lol. Helps her stand out as THE #Barbie,” someone else claimed. “I might be wrong but I feel like all the beige is intentional,” a third user wrote. “Margot is Barbie so they would want her to stand out. The hate is so unserious.” Despite the lacklustre photocall appearance, the Barbie cast’s fashion has remained on theme throughout much of the movie’s press tour. While attending CinemaCon in Las Vegas last April, Ryan Gosling arrived wearing a pink bomber jacket over a T-shirt with director Greta Gerwig’s name printed across it in the classic Barbie font. The 42-year-old actor also embraced his character’s famous look in the live-action film, in which he sports bleach-blonde highlights and a fake tan. During the event, Gosling told fans that he had previously “doubted his Ken-ergy,” but he eventually channelled his “inner Ken” with the help of his co-stars. “If I’m being really honest, I doubted my Ken-ergy. I didn’t see it. Margot and Greta, I feel like they conjured this out of me somewhere,” he said. He explained that, one moment, he was living his life as usual until, “one day, I was bleaching my hair and shaving my legs and wearing bespoke neon outfits and rollerblading down Venice Beach”. “It came on like a fever, like a Scarlet fever,” he said. “Like: ‘Why is there fake tanner on my sheets? Why am I wearing jackets without shirts? What just happened.’” Fans also caught a glimpse at the movie’s life-size Barbie Dreamhouse, where Barbie lives in the fantastical Barbieland. In a video shared by Architectural Digest, Robbie gave a tour of her character’s all-pink kitchen and a water slide, which leads from Barbie’s bedroom to her pool. “The dreamhouse came straight out of a fairytale book,” one fan said. “It really is something Barbie would want to live in. As always, this channel is always the best at what they do.” “Watching the Architectural Digest tour of the Barbie Dreamhouse isn’t enough,” another tweeted. “I need to live there.” Barbie hits theatres on 21 July in the US. Read More Barbie fans love Margot Robbie’s Architectural Digest tour of Dreamhouse: ‘Came out of a fairytale book’ Barbie caused a ‘worldwide’ shortage of pink paint Barbie stars Margot Robbie, Issa Rae and Simu Liu react to their own doll replicas Outfit choices for Barbie cast photo sparks hilarious reactions Fans love Margot Robbie’s Architectural Digest tour of pink Barbie Dreamhouse Influencers called out after promoting Shein factory in China
2023-06-27 12:52
Influencers called out after promoting Shein factory in China
A group of influencers have come under fire after posting glowing videos from their paid trip to a factory owned by controversial fast fashion retailer Shein in Guangzhou, China. Shein, which has been previously accused of labour abuse and admitted to breaching rules around working hours, brought the group of six fashion influencers from the US to tour its “Innovation Factory”. Influencer and model Dani Carbonari was one of the influencers who went on the trip and posted a video tour on her social media last week. After facing criticism from her followers – of which she was more than 481k on Instagram and nearly 300k on TikTok – Carbonari appears to have deleted the post. In her original post, she wrote in her caption that the trip to Shein’s factory gave her the opportunity to see with her “own two eyes what the entire process of Shein clothing looks like from beginning to end”. “I feel more confident than ever with my partnership with Shein. There are so many companies not taking half the initiative Shein is. They are aware of every single rumour and instead of staying quiet they are fighting with all of their power to not only show us the truth but continue to improve and be the best they can possibly be,” the “confidence activist” continued. The video showed a brightly lit factory, with staff working in clean, dust-free conditions and automated bots that assisted with processing and packaging orders. The other influencers, Destene Sudduth, Aujene, Fernanda Stephany Campuzano, Kenya Freeman, and Marina Saavedra, also shared similarly glowing Instagram posts about their visit. Viewers have pointed out that the influencers appeared to use a “script” for their posts, as they involved similar language. In her post, Saavedra said: “Like many others, I’ve heard a lot of misinformation”, while Carbonari wrote: “You have to remember our country is filled with so much prejudice – we want to believe we’re the best and no one else can be better.” @shein_us Get a glimpse of the process of how your purchases are packaged directly from our facility and delivered to your doorstep. Watch as our partners discover the cutting-edge tech that streamlines our operations and receive a hands-on experience in packaging. Stay tuned to the #SHEIN101 series to learn more of what goes on behind the scenes at #SHEIN #SHEINOnTheRoad ♬ original sound - SHEINUS But viewers have pointed out that the influencers’ comments about the Shein factory they saw – one of 6,000 factories that the online retailer has, according to Time magazine – do not address the allegations that have been levelled over Shein’s labour and environmental impact. Channel 4 launched an investigation last year that involved an undercover worker filming inside two Shein factories in Guangzhou and found that workers receive a base salary of 4k yuan per month (approximately £434) to produce 500 pieces of clothing per day. The investigation also found that workers in both factories were working up to 18-hour days regularly and were only given one day off a month. Later, Shein said that after conducting an independent investigation, it found that employees indeed working longer hours than the local laws allowed. Shein found that staff at one factory were working up to 13-and-a-half hour days with two to three days off a month, while those at the second site worked up to 12-and-a-half hour days with no fixed structure for days off. It said that “while these are significantly less than claimed in the documentary, they are still higher than local regulations permit”. At the time, Shein vowed to invest US$15m (£11.8m) to improve standards at its supplier factories. On Twitter, one person wrote: “Shein is sending the influencer girlies to China to some (PR) ‘innovation’ factory where it looks pristine and super clean and the workers are having fun while sewing and the company saying they pay a ‘competitive’ wage lol.” Another said: “The funniest part of the Shein debacle to me is the influencers acting like they went undercover to investigate. You were invited, of course, it’s PR.” A third added: “Them Shein influencers getting cooked and Shein ain’t [sic] defending them. Meanwhile the girls are doing their best to explain to us why Shein ain’t too bad. It’s sad.” The Independent has contacted Shein, Carbonari, Sudduth, Aujene, Campunazo, Freeman and Saavedra for comment. Read More Give Greenpeace a chance: Art and activism join forces for Glastonbury’s campaign for the future Harry and Meghan’s ‘lack of productivity’ left Spotify and Netflix bosses ‘underwhelmed’, report says A woman stopped cleaning after her husband accused her of doing ‘nothing’. Then she filmed the results Princess Diana’s ‘black sheep’ jumper predicted to sell at auction for up to £70,000 The best onstage fashion at Glastonbury Glastonbury 2023: All the best fashion at the biggest UK festival of the year
2023-06-26 23:15
The best onstage fashion at Glastonbury
A host of musicians and artists graced the many stages of Glastonbury this weekend, showing us their best festival fashion. This is what the best dressed wore while performing their hearts out… Lizzo About Damn Time singer Lizzo went full rock and roll for her first look. She appeared on stage with long emerald green hair parted down the middle, futuristic sunglasses and a black leather jumpsuit with a skirt over the top and pink lace-up detailing, designed by Michael Ngo. She then changed into a shiny pink boiler suit and a black bedazzled baseball cap, ending with a final costume change in a gold draped dress and lace-up boots. Elton John Elton John walked out in a metallic gold suit for his ‘last ever UK show’, in front of a huge crowd at the Pyramid Stage. He kept the rest of the look simple, with a black shirt underneath and a pair of his trademark glasses. Lil Nas X Featuring extravagant costume changes, American rapper and singer Lil Nas X’s set truly stunned fans. One look was a gold plated top and white trousers with furry leg warmers, while his hair was braided back in cornrows and pulled into a kinky Afro textured ponytail. He then performed topless in a metallic blue skirt that had a bull at the centre, knee pads and another pair of furry leg warmers, accessorised with a spiked choker necklace in the same colour. Tilda Swinton Tilda Swinton joined composer and pianist Max Richter at Glastonbury in a sky blue suit with flared trousers – an outfit she’s previously worn before – with a white and black pinstriped shirt and gold tie. She paired the look with Ahlem Quai Branly sunglasses. Cate Blanchett Swinton wasn’t the only actor at Glastonbury – Cate Blanchett brought star power to the stage when joining US pop-rock duo Sparks for a performance of their recent track The Girl Is Crying In Her Latte. The Oscar-winning actor – who also features in the music video – danced onstage in a bright yellow suit with a black shirt underneath. Becky Hill On The Other Stage, singer Becky Hill wore a three piece sequinned co-ord set that included a smiley face jacket, bralette and mini skirt. She paired it with black knee-high boots, a gold body chain and hoop earrings. Sophie Ellis-Bextor The 44-year-old singer wowed fans on the Worthy Farm stage in a disco-inspired gold sequinned leotard embellished with plenty of tassels. She paired the outfit with baby pink strappy heels, pulling her hair back in a messy ponytail. Bellah R&B singer-songwriter Bellah made her Glastonbury debut in a red distressed co-ord jacket and mini pleated skater skirt, with leather shorts underneath and a bejewelled black mesh top. She wore her hair in a bob with subtle red highlights and finished off the outfit with black knee-high leather boots. Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live Sarah, Duchess of York has operation for breast cancer: What to know about mammograms Wild swimming: When is it safe to go in? Prince of Wales to launch initiative aimed at ending homelessness
2023-06-26 19:57
Pride collection backlash has derailed retailers, but LGBT designers are more empowered than ever
When Walmart approached Gay Pride Apparel founders Sergio Aragon and Jesus Gutierrez to launch an exclusive Pride Month collection this June, it felt like a “full circle” moment for the first-generation Mexican Americans, who have been shopping at the discount big-box store their entire lives. “My family grew up low-income and Walmart was all we had,” Gutierrez tells The Independent. “If I would’ve seen a Pride display at age nine, it would’ve been so special.” Little did the founders of Gay Pride Apparel – whose mission is to celebrate and empower the LGBT+ community through clothing and accessories – know that they would soon be on the receiving end of “violent threats” from protestors, angry over the Pride Month merchandise. They’re not alone. This month, both queer designers and customers have faced numerous attacks from anti-LGBT+ groups over Pride Month collections. Target was infamously at the centre of significant backlash over its wide-ranging Pride merchandise. The outrage began after conservative media outlets falsely claimed Target was selling “tuck-friendly” bathing suits in the children’s department. Rather, the “tuck-friendly” swimsuits were designed for trans women who have not had gender-affirming surgery, but the misinformation didn’t stop there. Erik Carnell, a gay trans man based in the United Kingdom, received “hundreds upon hundreds of hate messages” for his queer inclusive brand Abprallen, which was also featured in Target’s Pride collection. While the retailer sold three of his designs in its stores, it was his items using occult imagery that received conservative backlash, despite not being sold in Target stores at all. In Montana, a transgender couple was harassed by a far-right extremist who destroyed a Pride display at a Target in Missoula, telling the couple to “enjoy [the merchandise] while you can.” Several videos also showed anti-LGBT+ protesters harassing Target employees, destroying Pride Month displays, and shouting “Your kids can’t be gay!” inside stores. In response, Target announced it was pulling some of its Pride Month merchandise after several employees experienced “confrontational behaviour” from angry customers. “Since introducing this year’s collection, we’ve experienced threats impacting our team members’ sense of safety and well-being while at work,” the retailer said in a statement. “Given these volatile circumstances, we are making adjustments to our plans, including removing items that have been at the centre of the most significant confrontational behaviour. Our focus now is on moving forward with our continuing commitment to the LGBTQIA+ community and standing with them as we celebrate Pride Month and throughout the year.” Target wasn’t the only major retailer to face conservative outrage and boycotts from anti-LGBT+ groups. Kohl’s, Adidas, The North Face, and Starbucks have all been criticised for their Pride Month campaigns and collections. And most notable of all was Anheuser-Busch, which featured trans influencer Dylan Mulvaney in a social media promotional post for Bud Light back in April. From parades, to demonstrations, to even marketing, LGBT+ empowerment has dominated the month of June for more than 50 years. But this year’s Pride comes amidst an unsettling time for the queer community, as America’s largest LGBT+ civil rights group issues a “state of emergency” for LGBT+ people living in the United States. Hundreds of bills have been introduced in state legislatures impacting the queer community, specifically targeting trans and nonbinary people. Out of 220 bills, more than 75 have been signed into law, and at least 19 states have enacted policies banning gender affirming healthcare for young trans people. This Pride Month, it seems as though the minority of Americans (more than 70 per cent of people in the US support same-sex marriage) are speaking the loudest. It may be because conservative legislation, largely targeting trans Americans, has emboldened anti-LGBT+ individuals to feel comfortable attacking the queer community in public spaces. However, many LGBT+ business owners believe it’s the increasing visibility and popularity of queer-inclusive fashion that has angered protesters. In fact, queer-owned businesses have generated more than $1.7 trillion in economic impact, according to the National LGBT Chamber of Commerce. The purchasing power of the queer community is without question, hence the age-old trend of corporations “rainbow-washing” during the month of June – slapping a rainbow on their products or logos to signal themselves as “gay-friendly,” rather than holding themselves accountable in their support for the LGBT+ community. Queer-owned businesses have existed for decades, and the ongoing attacks against retailers supporting them during Pride has only made them feel more empowered. TomboyX is a queer-founded fashion brand that designs gender-neutral undergarments for people of all sizes and across the gender spectrum. In 2012, co-founders Fran Dunaway and Naomi Gonzalez set out to make the perfect gender-neutral boxer brief after recognising a gap in the market for inclusive underwear. Today, TomboyX’s underwear and loungewear can be found in major US retailers like Nordstrom. “From the very beginning, we always recognised that there was this white space in fashion that was very much gendered,” Gonzalez tells The Independent. Her wife, Dunaway, added: “I think that for us it was just really important to be inclusive because we’re part of the LGBTQ+ community. We’re a married couple and so we really felt what it was like to not be seen and represented in fashion.” While TomboyX may have started the conversation on queer-inclusive fashion more than a decade ago, it’s continued to be a part of it. “There’s a sense of pride in just having more queer, non-binary designers out in the world, expressing themselves in all the ways that they see fit and having accessibility to the broader audience that way too,” Gonzalez says. “I think this isn’t about, you know, just one brand or anything like that. This is very much a movement. It’s very much an expression of the importance of being yourself.” The movement for non-gendered clothing has made headway in recent years, having much to do with the growing number of young Americans who self-identify as members of the LGBT+ community. In fact, the number has almost doubled, with a record one in five Gen Z adults identifying as LGBTQ. “In the past four or five years that we’ve been in this industry as a company, we definitely notice an increase of people coming to us asking not just for gender-inclusive clothing, but for non-binary related items,” says Gutierrez. While the demand for gender-inclusive fashion has grown in popularity, public backlash from right-wing media has forced companies to finally take a stance on LGBT+ rights. For Target, it responded by removing some of its Pride merchandise from stores, much to the dismay of its queer customers and LGBT+ allies. “It’s terribly disappointing that Target is caving in to threats of violence from anti-LGBTQ bigots by removing Pride Month displays,” tweeted Jon Cooper, Democratic majority leader of New York’s Suffolk County. “If these extremists decide to attack displays celebrating Black History Month next, will Target remove those as well?” “Target should not be responding so easily to criticism and threats from the likes of the Proud Boys,” said Human Rights Campaign President Kelley Robinson in a statement. “Target should put the products back on the shelves and ensure [its] Pride displays are visible on the floors, not pushed into the proverbial closet. That’s what the bullies want. Target must be better.” The backlash has shown real financial consequences for companies too. Weeks after Anheuser-Busch received pushback from conservative public figures over its partnership with trans influencer Dylan Mulvaney – notably Kid Rock, who posted a video of himself shooting cases of (purchased) Bud Light – the company released an underwhelming statement that it “never intended to be part of a discussion that divides people”. However, Anheuser-Busch made no mention of Mulvaney, nor the transphobic rhetoric perpetuated during the backlash. Not only did Bud Light’s retail sales in the US drop 24 per cent in early June, but the Human Rights Campaign has rescinded the company’s benchmark equality and inclusion rating. Emma McIlroy is the co-founder of Wildfang, a clothing brand based in Portland, Oregon, with the mission to rethink gender norms in fashion. For McIlroy, the recent financial results from companies like Anheuser-Busch are “terrifying” because it influences how brands will support the LGBT+ community in the future. “I think we live in a space right now where we’ve built a forum for divisiveness, and that’s what we’ve leaned into. None of it’s particularly shocking,” McIlroy says. “Once financial results take a complete beating, as a result of some of those decisions, that’s terrifying for me because I think you’re gonna see a lot of brands make different decisions, and that’s tough. It’s going to be very hard for other public CEOs to stand up for what they want to stand up for.” For others, they were disappointed to see Target facing such conservative backlash, considering the brand has largely been known as a leader in providing inclusive clothing during Pride Month. Unlike other major companies, the retailer has gone so far as to source small, queer business owners to join its Pride campaigns. JZD, a queer-owned, family-operated small business based in Texas, spent an entire year designing custom pieces for Target’s national Pride campaign. Ashley Molesso and Chess Needham, a queer and trans couple based in upstate New York, were asked to have items from their small gift and stationery company – Ash + Chess – featured in Target stores too. “Lots of companies have done a much better job of moving away from private labels, being inclusive of queer designers and queer brands,” says Rob Smith, CEO and founder of The Phluid Project. “I’ve seen that, this year, really come to light. I think Target is actually one of the companies that did it best, really creating much more space for queer brands.” While Target may have been setting an example for retailers during Pride Month, perhaps it’s when we look to major corporations to take a stance on social issues that we run into problems. Has the public outrage towards Pride collections become a turning point for corporate allyship? “I think every corporation really needs to decide where they’re going to stand in terms of who they think is their market,” says Sophie Bjork-James, an assistant professor of anthropology at Vanderbilt University. “Is it going to be a vocal minority or is it going to be everybody? I think that what we’ve seen, with some of the recent decisions by corporations, is that they are not completely sure what their stance is.” McIlroy thinks it’s a “non-starter” that companies should be prepared to support the communities that they “commercialise,” saying: “To do one without the other, it means you stand for nothing and it means you stand for no one.” It could be argued that Target did indeed take a stance on LGBT+ issues when it removed merchandise from its Pride Month collection. Some critics believe that, by rescinding its gender-inclusive items, Target “encouraged further acts of violent intimidation from the far-right”. Others may believe that none of this is Target’s fault, and that the company simply stood by its responsibility to protect employees. “I think a lot of companies are being reflective and thinking, where are we right now? Are we a company that’s grounded in culture, grounded in community? If you are, then yeah, go have a great Pride campaign,” says Smith. “But I don’t think it’s time to pull away. I do think it’s time to lean in. I think stepping away all together, for fear, would be really disappointing.” Despite the pushback from a small, but vocal minority opposing Pride Month, many queer designers believe the right-wing outrage actually draws more attention (and money) to small queer-owned brands, as well as the issues facing the LGBT+ community. However, showing support during Pride Month does not mean simply purchasing a T-shirt with a nondescript rainbow printed on it from your local big-box chain store. In fact, amplifying queer voices that often go unheard should happen year-round. “In the middle of this chaos, it just shows how much progress there’s been – that both of the largest retailers did have a collection for Pride,” says Gutierrez. “That’s why there was backlash, because it’s so big and in your face, that I want to take that as the winning moment. Like, look at that. We’re talking about queer rights now because you guys decided to come for us.” Read More Kohl’s threatened with boycott over Pride-themed clothes after Target forced to remove collection over threats Trans designer behind Target’s Pride collection flooded with orders as he responds to backlash Starbucks denies claims that it's banning Pride displays but union organizers are skeptical Rihanna steps down as CEO of Savage X Fenty Glastonbury 2023: All the best fashion at the biggest UK festival of the year Sarah Jessica Parker rewears iconic Vivienne Westwood wedding dress in And Just Like That
2023-06-23 23:50
Rihanna steps down as CEO of Savage X Fenty
Rihanna has stepped down as CEO of her lingerie brand, Savage X Fenty. On Friday (23 June), the billionaire beauty mogul appointed Hillary Super, the former CEO of Anthropologie Group, to take her place as CEO. Rihanna has held the position since she founded Savage X Fenty in 2018. Rihanna, who will remain in a leadership role as executive chair, said in a statement: “It’s been beautiful to see our vision for Savage X Fenty impact the industry at such an incredible magnitude over the last five years. This is just the beginning for us, and we’re going to continue to expand in ways that always connect with the consumer.” “I’m so grateful and excited to welcome Hillary Super as our new CEO – she is a strong leader and is focused on taking the business to an even higher level.” Hillary Super was CEO at Anthropologie Group for four years, and previously held leadership positions at Guess, American Eagle, Gap, and Old Navy. “I’m thrilled to join the Savage X Fenty family,” Super said. “The brand is a major powerhouse in the lingerie and apparel industry, and its unwavering commitment to celebrating inclusivity and fearlessness is inspiring.” More follows… Read More A$AP Rocky calls pregnant Rihanna his ‘wife’ as she watches him perform in Cannes Pharrell Williams makes his Louis Vuitton debut in star-studded Paris show Rihanna and A$AP Rocky celebrate son’s first birthday
2023-06-23 22:52
Sarah Jessica Parker rewears iconic Vivienne Westwood wedding dress in And Just Like That
Sarah Jessica Parker showed the power of upcycling outfits in the season two premiere of And Just Like That. In this reboot of classic series Sex And The City, Parker – who plays newspaper columnist-turned-podcaster Carrie Bradshaw – rewears one of her most iconic outfits: an opulent Vivienne Westwood wedding dress. Bradshaw wore this gown in the first Sex And The City movie, when she was left at the altar by Mr Big (played by Chris Noth). In the premiere episode of the new season, the characters are getting ready for fashion’s biggest night out: the Met Gala. Bradshaw enlists up-and-coming designer Smoke to make her outfit – the theme of the night is ‘Veiled Beauty’ – but due to various blunders, the outfit she plans on wearing doesn’t fit. So, she decides to look in her extensive wardrobe for a backup option – and what could be more fitting for the veil theme than a wedding dress? Bradshaw says in the episode: “I may have something. I’ve only worn it once. It’s not the best memory.” She wears the voluminous Vivienne Westwood strapless gown with the original blue feathered headpiece, a veil, and a turquoise cape made by Smoke. Parker, 58, told People about the “complicated” process of getting the iconic dress back. “We weren’t entirely certain that we could get the dress back,” she said. “It was in London and unearthing it was complicated — getting it through customs in time and then making sure was this, in fact, the original dress? The colour looked different.” In the first series of And Just Like That, Bradshaw ended up married to Mr Big, who later died suddenly. Parker wondered how they could bring the dress into the modern era, and told People: “How would we layer it and give it a new life, and have it feel modern and change the poetry that surrounded that dress from a lot of really painful but important memories that I don’t think Carrie really wanted to let go of, especially given this loss?” She even said it was “terrifying” to put the dress on 15 years after the first movie – but it still fits. And Just Like That follows the lives and loves of three characters from the original Sex And The City series: Carrie, Charlotte (played by Kristin Davis) and Miranda (Cynthia Nixon), with new faces also joining the cast. Sex And The City ran for six series from 1998 to 2004, with two feature films released in 2008 and 2010. Kim Cattrall – who rounded out the foursome in the original series as Samantha – decided not to join the reboot. However, Variety has reported that she will make a brief cameo in the series two finale, where she will have a phone conversation with Carrie. Episodes one and two of And Just Like That series two are now available on Sky. Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live AI to be used more widely in NHS hospitals 5 French skincare secrets you need to know What happens if you don’t wash your water bottle often enough?
2023-06-23 17:25
A menswear guide to wearing sandals in the summer
Whether you’re jetting off on holiday or simply promenading at your local park, sandals are the perfect solution to warm-weather dressing. That being said, finding city-appropriate footwear that doesn’t make you a target for mockery can be a tricky business. While getting some fresh air to your feet is essential during summer, sandals as a sartorial choice for men can be frowned upon so it’s important to carefully consider the dos and don’ts of baring those toes. So, is it really possible to wear sandals without having to sacrifice fashion over function? As expected, sandals were in abundance at the spring/summer 2018 menswear collections from outdoorsy Velcro types at Louis Vuitton and Paul Smith, to classic leather at Guiseppe Zanotti and even dual-strapped versions worn with chunky socks at Bottega Veneta. While the latter is a hit on the runway and beloved by geography teachers everywhere, for real-life wear a new focus on more contemporary and slick iterations means you can finally rock an open-toe without shame. Designer options are of course favourable but considering us Brits rarely, if ever, get a decent summer, it seems wiser to pinch your pennies at least a little. In this instance, high street brands like Cos, Arket and Russell & Bromley all offer sophisticated footwear options. However, if you’re looking for something more sporty, OG sandal brand Teva should be your go-to. Historically shunned by the fashion crowd, these simple sporty sandals are now considered cool. Even more so since their recent collaboration with high-end Japanese brand Porter. Whatever your choice, the even trickier dilemma comes with how to style them. The easiest way is to pair yours with shorts and a simple T-shirt, perhaps layered under a sleek Cuban shirt. However, for smarter occasions wearing sandals with trousers can be conflict-ridden. If you do want an alternative to the shorts and sandals combination, we suggest investing in a smart leather pair and to always team with a slim leg pair of trousers with turned-up hems, so as to avoid looking like you’ve taken a trip back to the Seventies. Read More London Fashion Week Men’s: Five key trends for SS19 5 French skincare secrets you need to know Carrie Bradshaw changes ‘painful’ narrative of wedding dress in And Just Like That Glastonbury 2023: All the best fashion at the biggest UK festival of the year
2023-06-23 16:23