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In a nutshell: A rare find where the boutique chic of a luxury hotel meets the functionality and independence of a B&B. The neighbourhood There really is something about Naples – it’s rough and ready, it’s energetic, it’s alive. This authentic charm is exactly why the city will have you planning your next visit before you’ve even finished your first. At first glance it can seem chaotic. Mopeds speed in and out of traffic (we’re told by several locals that they’re actually very good drivers and never crash), barely a wall in the city isn’t covered in graffiti and street art, and the nights (even mid-week) buzz with the chatter of locals and tourists alike. But it’s the pull of this organised chaos that (as a former New Yorker) led me to enthusiastically proclaim the city “Europe’s Brooklyn”. Then again, it’s also so much more than that. What Naples offers is a blend of old and new that at once clashes and coexists beautifully – here, you can experience ancient history and the coolest bars, all in one place. By day, explore the old town, where every turn surprises you with another ancient church, cobbled street or historic home. Take a tour of the underground of the city and walk through tunnels trod by the Romans. Walk to the high point of Castel Sant’Elmo to look down on the iconic Spaccanapoli – the straight and narrow main street that literally splits the city in two – or pay a visit to the square in the Spanish quarter, which has been transformed into a shrine to one of football’s biggest legends: Maradona (to say he’s idolised here would be a major understatement). By night, the city comes even more alive as groups of friends gather in the historic squares and at homely restaurants and effortlessly trendy bars, where people laugh, drink, smoke and eat gelato into the night. As the home of pizza, it’s also a food-lover’s delight. Wander the streets sampling the classic margherita and marinara pizzas, try the famous deep-fried pasta (trust me, it’s worth it) and get a deli sandwich unlike any other, with the freshest meats and cheese around. Naples has the added benefit of also being considerably more budget-friendly than some of its neighbouring Italian hotspots (here, a classic margherita or marinara pizza from the city’s most popular pizza places will set you back just two or three euros). So, as well as enjoying all that Naples has to offer, this makes it a great base to travel further afield during a stay in Italy – visit the historic ruins of Pompeii or Herculaneum, the MountVesuvius volcano, the lemon groves of Sorrento, the designer stores of affluent island Capri or the picturesque Amalfi Coast towns of Positano and Amalfi. The vibe The Dante House is the latest addition to the House in Naples’s fleet of four boutique B&Bs as well as apartments dotted across Naples’s historic centre. The concept is all about catering to travellers who want the quality of a hotel but don’t want the impersonality that can often come with it. With each location carefully handpicked and each perfectly unique and with its own character, it certainly delivers just that. Located on Piazza Dante at Port’Alba, The Dante House is right by one of the historic city gates encasing the old town and also conveniently just steps away from the Dante metro stop. At first glance, when you arrive outside the The Dante House in the heart of the historic old town, you could be forgiven for thinking you’re in the wrong place. Nestled between a late-night pizza spot and a casual, local bar, heavy, metal doors loom from a nondescript grey concrete building. There’s no sign confirming you’ve reached your destination. But step through the metal doors, and you’ll find yourself inside a classic, traditional Italian palazzo building. Climb up the huge slab stone stairs to the towering wooden double doors and you’ll be at The Dante House. This is where your real Neapolitan adventure begins. After all, what better way to experience the historic, vibrant city of Naples than to live like a local in a traditional Neapolitan house? Though the building may date from the 18th century, The Dante House manages to perfectly mix old and new, with its clean and modern interior renovation. It’s practical while being quirky; industrial but with boutique style; chic and modern but true to its original architecture – an embodiment of Naples itself. When we arrived, Connie was waiting to welcome us and show us around – not to mention enthusiastically give us her own personal and fantastically comprehensive guide to the best things to see and do in the city. The overall vibe is relaxed, and staff are super helpful and friendly – with excellent communication both in the lead-up to and during our stay – but are also hands off, if you’re more of an independent traveller. Basically, they’re there if you want them but they’ll leave you alone if you don’t. The reception is only staffed up to 8pm but one of the friendly staff members will come to greet late arrivals, there’s a 24/7 number for any queries and there’s also the option to arrange transfers from the airport or train station. If you’re someone who likes an all-inclusive hotel or a place that will plan your every holiday whim for you, this isn’t the place for you. Instead, this is perfect for independent travellers who want a comfortable, relaxed place to stay that’s more luxurious than your regular B&B but still acts as the perfect base from which to explore the city. Being situated in the heart of one of Naples’s most prominent historic squares, The Dante House couldn’t be in a better location to do exactly that. You’re close to some of the best bars, restaurants and pizza joints, and within walking distance to all the historic sites. Bed and bath None of the six rooms in The Dante House’s boutique B&B are the same. Some have quirky mezzanine levels, some have wrought iron balconies, some have spectacular views across the square. All have character. Seriously high wooden or frescoed ceilings give the huge rooms a decorative canopy, while light floods through the french doors. Handmade and restored vintage furniture has been reworked to embody The Dante House’s style: combining old and new. Nordic-inspired furnishings and touches of plush velvet perfectly clash and complement the industrial-style lighting and functional wood panels. Rooms and suites sleep between three and six people – some have kitchenettes, so they’re perfect for groups of all sizes. We stayed in the Dante 2 family studio apartment located in the same building as The Dante House, giving us access to the staff and the communal spaces – but also the privacy and peace and quiet of our own space. For a couple, family or group of friends on a city break, this option is the perfect middle ground. The apartment itself was spacious and functional – with a bedroom area, dining table and chairs, and a large kitchenette to cook in, if you so wish. There’s also a separate bathroom (complete with complimentary toiletries) and a small single bedroom, so up to four can sleep comfortably. It also has a washing machine, 32in smart TV, sheets and towels included. Decor-wise, it’s clean and simple with a few quirky pieces (such as a unique towering green wardrobe), which truly sets it apart from your usual B&Bs. All in all, it leans into the charm and edginess of the city waiting outside. The one downside (if we were to be picky) is the lack of windows and natural light. But, for us, this all added to the charm and quirkiness of the apartment, with its interior-facing window to the courtyard – which also meant less noise from the lively city outside. All in all, The Dante House is a far cry from a typical B&B. It’s somewhere between your home away from home and a luxury hotel. Food and drink Breakfast is a big draw at The Dante House. It’s buffet-style and has clearly been carefully curated with the best-quality ingredients in the way of fresh, organic, homemade and zero km foods. From delicious homemade yoghurt and dried fruit (prepared fresh every day), freshly baked croissants and sfogliatelle pastries (a classic Italian specialty handmade in House in Naples’s own bakery), to ready-made rolls with fresh cold cuts and cheeses. The breakfast area itself also perfectly matches The Dante House’s vibe, with its boutique-style plush velvet seats coupled with a laidback, homely feel, as though you’re sitting in a friend’s home. Sip freshly squeezed orange juice and freshly roasted coffee from a window seat overlooking the historic square below. It’s the perfect start to a day exploring the city. Later in the afternoon, there’s also coffee and tea available – just in time for a much-needed pit stop after wandering around the city. Public areas The blend of old meets new, industrial meets luxury and functional meets quirky runs through all the spaces at The Dante House. The reception area is all tiled flooring, vibrant teal wall, wooden desk and – most intriguing – a wall covered in old telephones. As a B&B concept, it, of course, doesn’t have the amenities of a hotel (though the last thing you have time for in Naples is a trip to the gym). What it does have, however, is Posca – its cafe come bistro come bar just steps from The Dante House and right in the middle of the beating heart of the city. By day, it’s a hip spot for freshly roasted coffee, homemade cakes and brunch. By night, it’s a quirky cocktail bar – which also brews its own beers – where friends can meet for an aperitivo. We visited on a Wednesday night and sampled the cocktails, which come in the form of twists on popular classics, drinking alfresco on the cobbled street out front among the buzz of the city. Inside the bar, the House in Naples’s creators surprised us yet again with the decor – think vibrant pink floral wallpaper, pink velvet and neon signs. To make it even more appealing, guests at The Dante House can get a discount off the bar tab. Nuts and bolts Room count: Six rooms at The Dante House, four apartments. Freebies: Breakfast, coffee and tea bar. Wifi: Free. Extra charges: Tourist tax of €2.50 per person per day. Parking €30 per day. Disability access: Due to its many stairs and steps, it is not wheelchair accessible. Pet policy: Pets allowed, upon request. Bottom line Best thing: The location right in the heart of the action, and the unique style. Worst thing: It can be a little noisy in the mornings, as the area is home to other businesses and local residents (though it’s not a bad thing to make sure you don’t miss a day of exploring). Perfect for: Families, couples and friends who want the luxury of a hotel coupled with the freedom and homeliness of a B&B. Not right for: People who like the round-the-clock service and all-inclusivity of a typical hotel. Instagram from: One of The Dante House’s eight balconies overlooking the historic square below. Read more of our Italy hotel reviews: Best hotels in Rome Where to stay in Venice Best hotels in Florence Read more about Italy travel: The ultimate guide to Italy What to do in Bologna Why Puglia makes for a great escape Read More Le Sirenuse, Positano, review: Exclusive luxury meets the intimacy of a family vacation home Best hotels in Europe 2023, from boho chic to Art Deco design Cala di Volpe hotel review: Live like royalty on Sardinia’s Costa Smeralda The 10 best countries for solo travel – and top tips for travelling alone 9 of the best Italy holiday destinations: When to travel and where to stay 8 best cities and towns in Portugal to visit on your next holiday