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Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto, V&A Museum review: Retrospective doesn’t shy away from designer’s Nazi ties
Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto, V&A Museum review: Retrospective doesn’t shy away from designer’s Nazi ties
In 1953, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel reopened her couture house after a 14-year hiatus at the age of 70. “Why did I return?” the legendary fashion designer later posited in an interview with Life magazine. “One night at dinner, Christian Dior said a woman could never be a great couturier.” It’s a quote that perfectly captures everything Chanel represents to this day, more than a century after she opened her first millinery shop in Paris in 1910. It also happens to be nestled in the enormous boarded timeline of the designer’s life that greets visitors to Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto, a major retrospective of the French couturière’s work, at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Marking the first time that a UK exhibition has been dedicated entirely to Chanel, it charts the designer’s humble beginnings in the Loire Valley of France through to the establishment of her eponymous brand and the evolution of her creations throughout the years. Incorporating gowns, suits, jewellery, fragrances and accessories, the exhibition features more than 50 of the designer’s famous tweed suits alongside several fragile pieces usually stored deep within the belly of the V&A’s archive. “We were very aware of the classic things people know about Coco Chanel,” says curator Connie Karol Burks, referencing the designer’s famous little black dresses, the 2.55 handbag and her tweed suits. “We really wanted to spotlight much more of what she contributed to fashion, and a bit more of her approach to designing clothes, like her need for comfort, simplicity and freedom of movement.” It’s a modality easily expressed from the start of the exhibition, the entrance to which is a subtle, black, perfume-like box on the ground floor (the museum’s usual rotunda-like fashion space is currently occupied by its Diva exhibition). When downstairs, visitors may be surprised to find flowing frocks fitted with bows and pockets from as early as the 1930s. “She was an active independent woman, primarily designing for herself,” explains Karol Burks. “These were practical and elegant clothes.” Practicality, as we soon learn, was an integral part of Chanel’s oeuvre. The exhibition celebrates the designer’s penchant for streamlined garments, clothes that rejected the stiff and restrictive aesthetics that had defined women’s wear just a few years earlier. It also includes details of her deep connection to Britain, including her friendships with figures from high society. While staying at the respective homes of Winston Churchill and the Duke of Westminster, Chanel embraced British sport, which is thought to be how the corresponding aesthetics of tweed and knitted jerseys found their way into her collections. Also included here is a sketch of Chanel painted by Churchill while the two were staying at the Duke of Westminster’s Scottish retreat in 1928. “Coco is here,” he wrote to his wife at the time. “She fishes from morn till night, & in two months has killed 50 salmon.” Elsewhere, highlights include the Chanel “Ford”, the name given to the designer’s little black dress that became a global staple for women everywhere. There are evening gowns aplenty, and an optic-white room entirely dedicated to the creation of the designer’s iconic perfume Chanel No 5, as well as an oval-shaped section devoted to Chanel’s tweed suits, with two rows of them spanning the curve of the room. As has already been reported, the exhibition also doesn’t shy away from Chanel’s controversial wartime activities. It features previously unseen documents illustrating evidence of her collusion with Nazis during the Second World War, while also, confoundingly, unearthing evidence that indicates she was a member of the French resistance. “It’s such a complex thing to get your head around,” says Karol Burks. “We felt it was important to have it in the exhibition and to display those original documents. But they almost give more questions than answers.” Unlike the V&A’s Dior exhibition, which charted the brand’s existence beyond the life of its founder, the Chanel retrospective ends with the designer’s death in 1971. Given the label’s extensive history in modern culture, perhaps this makes sense: there’s only so much you can squeeze into one show. But in many ways, it is a limitation that produces a lingering sense of intrigue around the designer herself. “Despite there being over 175 biographies [of Chanel], she’s still being written about and new information is still coming to light,” Karol Burks adds. “I don’t think anyone has quite pinned down who Gabrielle Chanel was. The more you learn about her, the less you know.” ‘Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto’ runs from 16 September until 25 February at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum Read More Loved in triangles, dressed for liberation: The queer fashion secrets of Virginia Woolf and the Bloomsbury Group Young people not snowflakes or wasters, says curator of rebellious fashion exhibition Pharrell Williams designed his first collection for Louis Vuitton for himself
2023-09-13 07:21
Stray is Getting a Movie Adaptation
Stray is Getting a Movie Adaptation
Your favorite cat game is getting a live adaptation. Learn more about here.
2023-09-13 07:20
Big-Screen Viewing: How to Connect Your iPhone or iPad to Your TV
Big-Screen Viewing: How to Connect Your iPhone or iPad to Your TV
Mobile devices have bigger screens than ever before, but sometimes your iPhone or iPad display
2023-09-13 03:45
Morocco Quake’s Death Toll Tops 2,900 as Focus Turns to Recovery
Morocco Quake’s Death Toll Tops 2,900 as Focus Turns to Recovery
Morocco said at least 2,901 people have been killed in the nation’s most powerful earthquake in a century,
2023-09-12 23:22
Josh Duhamel and wife Audra Mari announce they’re expecting first baby together
Josh Duhamel and wife Audra Mari announce they’re expecting first baby together
Josh Duhamel and his wife, Audra Mari, are welcome their first child together. The couple, who officially tied the knot in September 2022, shared a joint post to Instagram on 11 September to reveal that they’re expecting. The post included a picture of a baby’s ultrasound, as it was placed next to a white flower on a table. Mari simply captioned the post with: “Baby Duhamel coming soon,” along with a white heart emoji. Many famous faces took to the comments to congratulate the pair, including Duhmael’s ex-wife, Fergie, with whom he shares a 10-year-old son, Axl. “I am truly happy for you guys,” the singer commented. “Axl can’t wait to be a big brother.” “Congratulations! The most beautiful news! I’m thrilled for you both!!” The Girl Next Door star Elisha Cuthbert added. Former Bachelorette star Clare Crawley wrote: “I was just thinking this morning about you!!” Duhamel, 50, and Mari, 29, were first romantically linked in 2019, nearly two years after the actor announced his split from Fergie. In January 2022, the Shotgun Wedding star took to Instagram to reveal that he and Mari were engaged. “It’s on!! She found a message in a bottle that washed ashore and said YES!!” he wrote in the caption, alongside a photo of him and his partner, as she was holding a paper that read: “Audra Diane Mari, Will You Marry Me?” After tying the knot in September 2022, Mari went on to praise her relationship with her now-husband. “Everyone told me that after you get married you feel different,” she told Us Weekly, at the time. “To be honest, I never really believed them and I thought it would feel the same way it’s felt being with Joshua for the last three years. But it’s much different! I feel secure.” Last year, the couple also made headlines when they poked fun at their 21-year age difference. While attending the Casamigos Halloween party in Beverly Hills, California, Mari dressed up as 26-year-old Anna Nicole Smith, while Duhamel dressed up as her 89-year-old husband, billionaire J Howard Marshall. Mari went on to post a video on Instagram of her partner in costume, as he was wearing a bald cap. In the caption, she quipped: “What age difference? Ladies and gentlemen Anna Nicole Smith & J. Howard Marshall.” This wasn’t the first time Duhamel has poked fun at his and his wife’s age gap. During an appearance on The Kelly Clarkson Show in October 2022, he recalled how he had to go to the emergency room for a back injury, mere hours before his wedding. While he said he no longer had the pain during his big day, after going to the doctor, his back issues continued the next day. “The next morning, after the wedding, [I] couldn’t get out of bed again,” Duhamel said. “[My wife’s] like, ‘Oh my God. Everything is fine here. This is, like, the first day of my marriage, and I’m wheeling my husband around in a wheelchair.’ I’m already way older than she is.” “It wasn’t a great start,” he quipped. “But, I was like: ‘Babe, for better or worse.’” Read More Our weekend arts and culture picks, from The Fabelmans to Happy Valley Josh Duhamel and Audra Mari poke fun at their age gap by channeling Anna Nicole Smith and husband for Halloween Jennifer Lopez mysteriously wipes Instagram account and goes dark on other social channels Mom says she was shamed for teaching infant son to take pride in his appearance Kelly Osbourne opens up about weight loss journey Hairspray star reveals she went into labour while attending Beyoncé concert
2023-09-12 22:52
Ulta Beauty Announces 2023 MUSE Accelerator Cohort
Ulta Beauty Announces 2023 MUSE Accelerator Cohort
CHICAGO--(BUSINESS WIRE)--Sep 12, 2023--
2023-09-12 22:19
Turned On By Body Scent? You’re Not Alone (& We Aren’t Talking About Perfume)
Turned On By Body Scent? You’re Not Alone (& We Aren’t Talking About Perfume)
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2023-09-12 19:52
Kylie Jenner Then and Now: Reality star's transformation through the years
Kylie Jenner Then and Now: Reality star's transformation through the years
From 'KUWTK' to 'Kylie Cosmetics', Kylie Jenner has reinvented herself several times over
2023-09-12 19:50
Dame Helen Mirren to walk the runway at Eiffel Tower fashion show
Dame Helen Mirren to walk the runway at Eiffel Tower fashion show
Dame Helen Mirren will walk the runway alongside models including Kendall Jenner and actors Viola Davis and Elle Fanning at a special fashion show under the Eiffel Tower in Paris
2023-09-12 18:59
Today’s beloved host Al Roker abruptly leaves mid-show as Craig Melvin reveals reason behind absence
Today’s beloved host Al Roker abruptly leaves mid-show as Craig Melvin reveals reason behind absence
Apart from Al Roker, Dylan Dreyer was also absent, with Vicky Nguyen taking her place
2023-09-12 16:48
Food Network host Bobby Flay spends date night cooking Carbone's Spicy Vodka Pasta with girlfriend Christina Perez
Food Network host Bobby Flay spends date night cooking Carbone's Spicy Vodka Pasta with girlfriend Christina Perez
The pair, who made their romance public for the first time in November 2021, had a romantic date night at home
2023-09-12 12:56
'Pawn Stars' alum Corey Harrison's mugshot released as star walks free after DUI arrest in Vegas
'Pawn Stars' alum Corey Harrison's mugshot released as star walks free after DUI arrest in Vegas
'Pawn Stars' cast member Corey Harrison was released eight hours after he was detained in Las Vegas
2023-09-12 09:15
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