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Food prices in South Africa continue to increase at a startling rate, although the pace of acceleration is

By Joice Alves LONDON European grocers could exceed market expectations for earnings growth this year as they keep

In a number of scenes in 2001’s Bridget Jones’s Diary, our heroine – a thirtysomething singleton played by Renée Zellweger – squashes the skin of her lower torso into an array of Lycra shapewear, all in an attempt to make herself appear slimmer. When Hugh Grant’s Daniel Cleaver sets his eyes on her high-wasted, nude-coloured underpants in one memorable scene, Bridget blushes with embarrassment. “Well, hello mummy,” Daniel purrs. At the time of the film’s release, control shapewear – or tummy-tucking underwear designed to smooth its wearer – was marketed predominantly at people like Bridget, someone who was told by society she was “fat” or undesirable unless she had a flat stomach. Today, though, shapewear is branded differently, marketed to young women as a sexy, must-have fashion accessory. Shapewear products are not only promoted as stomach-smoothing fixes, but for anyone who wants a narrow waist or their figure to resemble a contoured, Kardashian-style hourglass. Skims, Kim Kardashian’s self-owned shapewear brand that she founded in 2019, sells viral sculpting bodysuits geared towards achieving this particular body shape. They start at £70. Since the launch of Skims, as with anything that a member of the Kardashian clan wears or makes, fast fashion knock-offs have swelled the market. Online retailer PrettyLittleThing, which has a murky track record of contributing to a harmful cycle of fast fashion, sells duplicates of the Skims viral bodysuit for around £20. They also sell waist trainers – a corset-style casing worn underneath clothes to aggressively teach your waist to be narrow – for just £12. “Doll cinch your waist in an instant with this waist trainer,” the item’s description reads. The product has boning to make it stiff and restrictive. Venture onto TikTok and you’ll find viral dresses with Spanx-style shapewear, designed to minimise the width of a person’s waist and accentuate their bottom, built into the clothing itself. While Skims is not solely responsible for this recent boom in shapewear, it has contributed to transforming how we view it – Bridget’s “granny pants” are now glamorous and aspirational. For the brand’s latest collection, for example, buzzy British singer-songwriters Raye and PinkPantheress were enlisted to promote it, along with viral Bronx rapper Ice Spice. The resulting campaign wouldn’t look out of place in the pages of Vogue. What this marketing tells us is that fashion isn’t just about the garments you wear, but the apparently malleable shape of the body on which they’re worn. Early shapewear emerged in the 16th century, not as a trend or body sculpting device, but for practical support. Karolina Laskowska, a lingerie designer and director of the underwear archive The Underpinnings Museum, tells me that the primary purpose of shapewear back then was to support the body much in the same way that a contemporary bra is made to support the breasts today. “A pair of stays [a corset style bodice] would have offered bust and back support for women who worked,” she explains. “These styles were more functional and supportive, rather than trend-driven.” The beginnings of the shapewear we see today were first seen in the Sixties, when the invention of Lycra, a synthetic-based elastic fibre, allowed for stretchier fabrics. What Laskowska dubs the grandparent of modern shapewear was the “Little X Girdle” by a British brand called Silhouette. “It was a turning point for a shift from traditional structured corsetry into elasticated shapewear,” she says. The item was a seamless, pull-on girdle – an elasticated corset extending from waist to thigh – and was eventually licenced to sell in over 32 countries as turnover increased exponentially. We then saw the evolution of more comfortable, everyday shapewear, like those made by Spanx, an American brand founded in 2000. They’re so uncomfortable, but they’re so afraid of what others will think about them due to their body size Victoria Kleinsman By contrast, modern shapewear is now geared towards sculpting the body to appear differently underneath clothes. And now, fast fashion is getting involved, too. But lingerie designers like Laskowska are increasingly worried about the consumer physically “hurting” themselves with badly made undergarments. “We’ve seen fast fashion adopt corsetry and shapewear trends but it’s not made to fit the human anatomy, since it’s made to be as cheap as possible,” she says. She adds that people could “injure” themselves with elasticated shapewear if they buy a size too small, meaning they could potentially restrict their blood’s circulation. Victoria Kleinsman, a self-esteem expert and body love coach, works with women between the ages of 13 to 60, and says that she’s seen how her younger clientele are feeling the pressure to wear shapewear in order to conform to the cult of thinness. Some clients have bought pantyhose with built-in cushioning to make the bottom look larger and perkier. Others will wear layers of shapewear to sculpt the body, particularly the waist and stomach, to look slimmer or flatter. To Kleinsman, wearing modern shapewear allows people to apply an “IRL [Instagram] filter” to their bodies. She speaks to women each day who are “crying” to her on Zoom calls because they’re worried about what their bodies look like. “It’s to the point when it’s boiling hot weather [but] they’re wearing spandex shapewear and tights, and they’re so uncomfortable, but they’re so afraid of what others will think about them due to their body size.” The expert fell into her line of work after she struggled with an eating disorder – she also wore a waist trainer when she was dealing with her own body image issues. “I would go to the gym wearing it because apparently you ‘sweat more’ and therefore lose ‘water fat’,” she says. “Which is b******! It’s physically painful to your physical body and even more painful to your emotional and mental well-being.” Kleinsman doesn’t think that this type of elasticated shapewear has anything to do with fashion and it should not be marketed as such. “It’s really dangerous,” she tells me. “Shapewear gives you a fake ‘confidence’ but then underneath it all when that comes off, then, who are you?” The popularity of Skims and their various knock-offs doesn’t seem likely to decline any time soon, but Kleinsman is hopeful that more women will soon have epiphanies about the shapewear revival. “Fatphobia and body image trauma is still the norm,” she sighs. “There has never been more [appropriate] a time for us to embrace our natural bodies.” Read More ‘The models are skinnier than ever’: Has London Fashion Week stopped caring about body diversity? Hostage to fashion: Margot Robbie’s Chanel problem speaks to a wider red carpet crisis Jeans shopping is still a total nightmare Kim Kardashian says Kris Jenner gets ‘sad’ thinking of how fame changed her family Kanye West and wife Bianca Censori cause confusion with Sunday Service outfits Chanel’s classic 1926 little black dress added to fashion exhibition in Scotland

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TikTok is a breeding ground for the next big thing. What was once predominantly a Gen Z dance app has since evolved into a catalogue of lifestyle habits repackaged under quirky names. Single? You’re ‘dating yourself.’ Attend the gym? You’re a ‘health girlie.’ Organised and minimal? You’re living the ‘Clean Girl Aesthetic’. With over a billion views under the hashtag, the Clean Girl Aesthetic has dominated the app for some time now – and it doesn’t seem to be going anywhere soon. It has since adopted other areas of life such as health and mindfulness. So, what is it? For the blissfully unaware, the Clean Girl is a TikTok trend in which everything about someone’s life appears minimal and effortlessly chic. It is portrayed as being low maintenance. A ‘Day in the Life’ generally starts with an early alarm, followed by a smoothie and minimal makeup for a dewy 'no make-up' glow. The Clean Girl Aesthetic has since welcomed Pilates under its wing, often finished with a dash of bedtime journaling for good measure. @mirellagir 🤍🧘🏻♀️ #morningvlog #morningroutine #selfcare #thatgirlaesthetic #pilates #cleangirlaesthetic #aestheticroutine Sign up for our free Indy100 weekly newsletter While the lifestyle trend is proving popular across social media, some have argued that it isn’t as effortless as what meets the eye. Critics claim it actually takes more time, effort and money with five minute glazed ‘makeup-less’ looks being tied to £500 treatments. The trend isn’t shy of controversy either, being credited to mostly white influencers. Some have highlighted that aspects of the aesthetic (specifically the ‘beauty’ tutorials) have roots in other cultures. That said, it’s always important to understand the origin of trends across TikTok and give credit where due. The trend has since had a face-off with ‘Dirty Girl Aesthetic’, with Julia Fox declaring on EmRata’s High Low podcast: "Clean Girl Aesthetic is out." The model added: "It’s about, Dirty Girl." She went on to elaborate in a candid clip uploaded to her page, raising concerns about the said ‘rules’ of TikTok trends. "Just so you guys know, ageing is fully in. Like, fully. Dirty girl. Ugly. Not wearing clothes that fit your body type. Just fully wearing everything you want," she told her followers. @juliafox Ooooo I know this is gonna make the broke boys mad #OLDISIN Now, if we strip it back to basics, remove the label and the aesthetically pleasing TikToks, the ‘beauty ideals’ and bouji products, we’re left with a handful of seemingly unproblematic healthy habits. But, are they really effective as TikTok hypes them up to be – or are they merely a part of yet another internet fad? I spent the last month finding out. Now, I pride myself on being a morning person so 5am starts can't be that challenging, right? Wrong. The 5am club is a simple concept to understand – but much more difficult to carry out. You essentially rise at the ungodly hour in the name of productivity. During your time of solitude, you complete house chores, read, grab some breakfast and journal before starting the working day. Days 1-3 felt like a novelty and were filled with optimism and drive: journalling away, whipping up smoothies and taking long, hot showers. Then came along days 3-5 and my body was crying out for those additional two extra hours in bed. The 'snooze alarm' was being abused – and by day 7, I officially called it a day. I have full respect for the 5am rise and shiners, and admire that it's some people's bag – but it's a solid no from me. I ended up bored and restless. Not to mention, the constant reminder I could do all of these things at the end of the day with the same level of energy. Sadly, the first week of journalling my feelings, thoughts and emotions were dedicated to bitching about how tired I was from the dreaded iPhone alarm. But, once the two hours sleep were added back into my routine, we were onto a winner. It soon transformed into a mini mental health journey, allowing me to really gauge certain triggers and delve into feelings a lot deeper. One of the most surprising and unexpected finds for me was connecting the dots between sleeping and eating habits, prompting me to experiment with foods that perhaps weren't giving me the best time. It also allowed me to set my intentions for the day and helped me to stay on track with different areas of life, including fitness. Being the forgetful – and sometimes erratic – person I am, it really helped me slow down, unwind and actually remind me to follow through my my 'to do' lists. This brings me to Pilates: The latest fitness trend taking social media by storm – thanks to the likes of Hailey Bieber, Lori Harvey and Kourtney Kardashian. Even Harry Styles has been spotted giving the Reformer machine a go. You'll soon be humbled by what appears slow, effortless movements – as I learnt at The Health Lab. "Celebrity fitness secrets used to be kept under lock and key but now the more you share the bigger your community," Faye Bennett, Health Lab's studio manager and instructor told Indy100. "Pilates does come with a certain aesthetic as it is commonly very clean movements which appeal to the eye (disclaimer: it’s not always like that!)." "It is a sustainable style of fitness that you can ultimately do every day with no harm to joints. It’s low impact and the results are truly visible," Faye continues. "The short answer is, it works." Truth is, Pilates is far from a new concept and has been practiced since the 1920s. German-born Joseph Pilates worked as a circus performer, boxer and self-defence instructor in England in his early years, before serving as an orderly in an Isle of Man hospital where he helped patients unable to walk. He did so by attaching bed springs to hospital beds, later birthing the famous apparatus seen in most Pilates studios today. "I invented all these machines... it resists your movements in just the right way so those inner muscles really have to work against it. That way you can concentrate on movement. You must always do it slowly and smoothly. Then your whole body is in it," he famously once explained. Complete with 10 Reformer machines in an aesthetically-pleasing studio in the heart of Manchester, the Health Lab may look like an Instagrammer's playground – but it's much more than pretty pictures. You will put in work, through low-intensity movements that will leave you aching in places you didn't even think possible. Hand-in-hand with incredible instructors, experts and a passion for Pilates, I soon learnt there was much more to the phenomenon that meets the eye. Being a loyal high-intensity exerciser over the years, I initially couldn't wrap my head around how subtle slow-paced movements could make a difference to my body. I couldn't have been any more wrong. After a month of training 3-4 times a week, I noticed improvements in my posture, strength and flexibility. It also had a surprising effect on my mental health– especially when it comes to anxiety – as it really taught me to prioritise and focus on breathing techniques. "There’s an age old saying that 'you’re only as old as your spine,'" Faye says. "Pilates is both restorative and strengthening. It improves your posture and alignment so that when you do work out you can access those deep layers of muscle in charge of building strength from the inside out." Faye explains that the leaner muscles become, the faster the metabolism and protected joints become. "This means you will be less prone to injuries and generally feel more ease as you move. This comes from increased flexibility and mobility. We focus an awful lot on the core in pilates which gives you the ability to hold yourself taller, which takes pressure away from your spine and releases tension enabling a strong healthy spine. A healthy spine makes you feel younger, more agile and stronger." While Reformer Pilates can initially look and feel daunting, sessions are guided by well-informed instructors who are on hand to offer help and modifications suited to everyone's individual needs. It's pretty easy to grasp after just one session. "Just know, if you are finding that pilates burn or feeling a little bit wobbly, the rest of the class is too so you are never alone no matter what your experience level is," Faye adds. While my Clean Girl month failed in some areas (a girl loves her sleep), Pilates and journalling are two new positive additions I'll be taking forward with me. They've provided both mental and physical benefits, by adding routine, clarity and a clearer, more settled mindset overall. Maybe TikTok is onto something, after all. To find out more information about The Health Lab classes, click here. Have your say in our news democracy. Click the upvote icon at the top of the page to help raise this article through the indy100 rankings.