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The swan dress worn by Icelandic singer Bjork to the 2001 Oscars will be part of a new exhibition celebrating rebellious fashion. The outfit – by Macedonian designer Marjan Pejoski – was controversial at the time, as it was a huge departure from the black tie gowns normally seen on the red carpet. It’s gone on to take a prominent place in fashion and pop culture history, and this will be the first time it’s been seen in the UK, since it was created over 20 years ago. The swan dress will join ensembles worn by Harry Styles, Rihanna and Sam Smith at a new exhibition at the Design Museum called Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion. The exhibition will feature nearly 100 looks from designers who have taken part in the NewGen initiative – a scheme run by the British Fashion Council (BFC) that supports emerging fashion talent. It will include trousers made from deadstock materials designed by Steven Stokey Daley and worn by Harry Styles for his 2020 music video Golden, as well as a replica of the inflatable latex jumpsuit worn by Sam Smith at the 2023 Brit Awards, designed by Harri. Other looks include the voluminous blue ruffled dress by Molly Goddard – worn by Rihanna in 2017 in an Instagram post which garnered 1.7 million likes – and a Nasir Mazhar headpiece modelled by Lady Gaga. Covering the last 30 years of fashion, the exhibition isn’t organised chronologically – instead, each room will cover themes, including colour (featuring work from Ashish, Richard Quinn and Mary Katrantzou), art school (Molly Goddard and S. S. Daley) and the club scene (with pieces from Halpern and Gareth Pugh). One room will be entirely dedicated to trailblazing designer Alexander McQueen, who was one of the first recipients of NewGen support. “It is impossible to underestimate the influence London has on Britain’s fashion talent, a city that produces wave after wave of young designers that value originality, wearing what you believe in, and tackling social issues to make a better world,” said Sarah Mower, BFC ambassador for emerging talent and guest curator of Rebel. The exhibition shows pieces from when each designer was taking part in the NewGen scheme – and some of them are now household names, such as Erdem and Northern Irish designer JW Anderson. “Only showing looks and accessories and supporting materials that were produced while the designer was receiving NewGen support has meant that we have the most extraordinary insight into early careers of designers that are incredibly familiar today,” said Rebecca Lewin, Design Museum curator. The exhibition will open in September, to coincide with the new season of London Fashion Week and to celebrate 30 years of the NewGen programme, which has supported more than 300 designers over the years. Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion sponsored by Alexander McQueen will open at the Design Museum in London on September 16 and will run until February 11, 2024. Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live Chrissy Teigen welcomes fourth child – how does surrogacy actually work? 11 ways to work the colour clash trend at home Heart disease digital check-ups for over 40s being rolled out

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The ‘big four’ international fashion weeks are set to debut their spring/summer 2024 womenswear catwalk shows starting on September 8. Designers will be showing off their latest collections beginning in New York, followed by London, Milan and Paris. Heritage brands and up-and-coming names alike will be hoping to make headlines, generate online buzz and secure the hottest celebrities on the front row. Here’s what we’ve got to look forward to from the four fashion capitals for SS24… New York When: September 8 to 13. What’s the vibe? “New York’s a bit more established, it’s a bit calmer for me,” says celebrity fashion stylist Miranda Holder, who usually attends shows on both sides of the Atlantic. “It feels more corporate at times. You can spot the industry professionals like Anna Wintour on the front row and you’ve got the Hollywood polish.” Who will be showing? Carolina Herrera, Michael Kors and Ralph Lauren (returning after a four-year hiatus) are among the New York Fashion Week stalwarts, while celeb favourites Brandon Maxwell and Christian Siriano are always big draws. While not technically part of the official schedule, supermodel Naomi Campbell will be jumping on the Big Apple bandwagon, presenting her collaboration with fast fashion retailer Pretty Little Thing on September 5. The catwalk show is billed by the brand as an “electrifying fashion experience, echoing the British fashion icon’s ethos of innovation, glamour and empowerment”. London When: September 15 to 19. What’s the vibe? “I always see London as the launch platform for a lot of people,” says John Bruce, director of PRM model agency. “It’s pretty exciting because sometimes we need to support the new ones in order to see them grow.” Holder adds: “The East End has become very trendy and now a lot of designers, particularly emerging ones, are over in the East End, plus the venues are trendier there.” Who will be showing? Highlighting the city’s commitment to supporting fledgling designers, this season marks 30 years of the British Fashion Council’s NewGen scheme, with 20 catwalk shows slated including hotly-tipped names S.S.Daley, Yuhan Wang and Labrum London. Several major exhibitions are timed to coincide with fashion week. Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion at the Design Museum is curated by the BFC’s Sarah Mower; Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto opens at the V&A; and The Missing Thread: Untold Stories of Black British Fashion will be held at Somerset House. Major labels on the London schedule include Burberry (it’s Daniel Lee’s second season at the helm of the heritage brand), plus royal favourites Erdem and Emilia Wickstead. Milan When: September 20 to 26. What’s the vibe? “Milan has super cool brands,” says Bruce. “It’s an absolutely amazing city, but their market is a little bit more conservative. The show du jour is the Prada show – that normally sets a lot of tone for the season.” Who will be showing? Following two noteworthy departures, all eyes are on Gucci, where Sabato De Sarno presents his debut collection after Alessandro Michele’s exit, and Tom Ford, where Peter Hawkings has taken over from the eponymous founder as creative director. London Fashion Week transplant Karoline Vitto will debut on the Milan schedule, and it’s business as usual for a slew of Italian fashion houses, including Giorgio Armani, Dolce and Gabbana, Fendi, Moschino, Prada and Versace. The Camera della Moda Sustainable Fashion Awards will take place at La Scala Theatre on September 24, honouring designers who combine creativity and eco-friendly production. Paris When: September 25 to October 3. What’s the vibe? “The shows are just spectacular,” says Holder. “They often take place in wonderful historic ballrooms or palaces or something like that, so you’ve just got a whole new element of romance about Paris.” Bruce agrees: “I would say Paris is probably the most glamorous. You feel the elegance, you feel the richness.” Who will be showing? The longest of the big four weeks, spanning eight days, Paris is home to French fashion behemoths Chanel, Saint Laurent, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy and Balmain. British brands Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood and Victoria Beckham take their usual slots on the City of Light schedule, while Mugler, Maison Margiela and Carven are the most highly anticipated returns. Former Celine creative director Phoebe Philo (worshipped among fashion obsessives) is also set to unveil the first collection from her eponymous label in September, but it’s unclear whether this will be during Paris Fashion Week. Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live How can parents and children battle back-to-school anxiety? Can you grow a lemon tree from a pip? The beginner gardening questions we all want to ask Fraser Franks undergoing heart surgery – four years after ‘hidden’ condition cut short football career

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Consuming large amounts of ultra-processed foods could be linked to depression, according to a new study published in the Journal JAMA. Ultra-processed foods are usually high in salt, sugar, hydrogenated fats and additives. This includes ice cream, sausages, crisps, biscuits and soda. The study looked at the eating habits and mental health of more than 31,000 female nurses as part of the Nurses’ Health Study II, a long-term research project on various aspects of women’s health. To better understand the links between depression and foods, researchers started the study before participants reported any symptoms of depression and then followed them over time. This allowed the team to make a connection between a person’s diet and their mental health. Results showed women who consumed over nine portions a day of ultra-processed foods had a 50 per cent higher risk of developing depression than those consuming four portions or less. Participants who consumed a high amount of foods and drinks that contained artificial sweeteners had a particularly negative outcome, the study found. "Participants with high UPF intake had greater BMI, higher smoking rates, and increased prevalence of comorbidities like diabetes, hypertension, and dyslipidemia and were less likely to exercise regularly," the study said. “Experimental studies have shown that artificial sweeteners may trigger the transmission of particular signalling molecules in the brain that are important for mood,” the authors continued. Professor Andrew Chan, chief of the clinical and translational epidemiology unit at Massachusetts General Hospital and co-author of the research, said: “The strength of our study is that we were able to assess diet several years before the onset of depression,” according to The Guardian. “This minimises the likelihood that our findings are simply due to individuals with depression being more likely to choose ultra-processed foods.” In a 2022 study, researchers linked ultra-processed food and cognitive decline. CNN reported that the study found eating those foods may affect parts of the brain that control executive function — such as the ability to process information and make decisions. The research also found that men and women who ate the most ultraprocessed foods had a cognitive decline rate 28 per cent faster than those who did not eat those foods. They also had a 25 per cent faster decline rate of their executive functions than their peers who did not eat ultraprocessed foods. What are the symptoms of depression? According to the Cleveland Clinic, some of the symptoms of depression include: Feeling very sad, hopeless or worried. Not enjoying things that used to bring joy. Being easily irritated or frustrated. Eating too much or too little — which may result in weight gain or weight loss. Trouble sleeping (insomnia) or sleeping too much (hypersomnia). Having low energy or fatigue. Having a difficult time concentrating, making decisions or remembering things. Experiencing physical issues like headache, stomachache or sexual dysfunction. Having thoughts of self-harm or suicide. Read More Yoghurt could be the cure for bad garlic breath, study finds Study finds link between ultra-processed food and cognitive decline

Apparently most people are drinking their coffee completely wrong – and you’d better believe it, because it’s according to an Italian chef. Italian coffee lover Nadia, who has more than two million followers on her Instagram account The Pasta Queen, had a message for followers in her latest video. As an off-camera voice asked if she wants to have a cappuccino, she rolled her eyes and said: “No. It’s past 12.” Italians don’t drink cappuccinos after midday, she explained, adding: “It’s a breakfast drink.” “It's frothed milk! It’s good to awaken your senses before 10. If you really want to push it, 11. But not after 12.” She adds that when you’re eating a meal, “you’ve got enough going on” in your mouth and your stomach. “All you need is a quick espresso,” she said. “It’s like an American having a hot dog for breakfast.” However, some people seem not to appreciate being told when to drink their favourite coffee. Beneath the video some commenters were bewildered by the instruction. One person said: “I ordered a cappuccino in Italy, the waiter said no.” One viewer said: “I will continue to have my cappuccino morning, noon and night! I will especially continue to ask for a cappuccino after dinner when travelling in Italy just so I can p*** off the waiter.” Another said: “I am Italian and know of this ‘rule’ yet it did not phase me… I still ordered my cappuccinos in the afternoon and watched several natives enjoying one as well… It’s just steamed milk with espresso? Not sure what the big deal is? I say drink what you want, when you want. Respectfully.” However, others decided to trust the expert and sided with Nadia. A person commented: “You underestimate the power of Americans having just about ANYTHING for breakfast including last night’s leftovers.” It seems, as with most things food-related, the Italians know best. Sign up to our free Indy100 weekly newsletter Have your say in our news democracy. Click the upvote icon at the top of the page to help raise this article through the indy100 rankings.

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