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Designer Christian Cowan had a full circle moment when he recently dressed pop legend Kylie Minogue. “There are two moments when I decided I wanted to be in fashion, and they’re both around Kylie Minogue,” Cowan remembers. “One was in Borders bookshop in Cambridge [where Cowan grew up], my mum was getting a coffee and I was waiting – on the TV was the Can’t Get You Out Of My Head music video. I was like, ‘What is that? That is what I need to do’. “Then for my 12th birthday, my mum was really sweet and got me tickets to see Kylie’s X tour in the O2. It was right in the nosebleed seats at the back, and I was living my best life.” Cowan designed a red jumpsuit with zips for Minogue to perform in New York, and says: “To dress people like that, people who I really looked up to and still look up to is always an honour.” And Minogue isn’t the only celebrity who has worn Cowan’s colourful, whimsical designs. Pretty much any star you can think of, Cowan will have dressed – Lady Gaga, Sam Smith, Lizzo, Lil Nas X, Heidi Klum, Cardi B, Miley Cyrus – the list goes on. While pop stars definitely seem to gravitate to his work, Cowan says there’s no real limit to who wears his clothes. “The Christian Cowan person is anyone, but it’s someone who wants to enjoy themselves, it’s someone who wants to be complimented and get attention. It’s someone who enjoys the fun of dressing up – our customers in general, they’re not really dressing for the gaze or perspective of anyone else – they’re just feeling f****** fabulous.” Cowan went to university in London and now resides in New York – and he says he gets inspiration from both major fashion hubs. The US “leans more into maximalism, and [is] not afraid of opulence and showing off, which is very much part of my brand”, he reflects. “And the UK I’d say is more [about] pushing the boundaries and trying out new things.” Ultimately, both cities are “incredibly fashionable and stylish and have created original thinkers – so I feel very lucky to be between the two”. Cowan established his eponymous label in 2016 so feels like an industry stalwart by now, but he’s still only 29 years old. “I started my brand and career very young,” he admits. “I would definitely say it’s grown up with me – the collections that I put out at the beginning are by no means the collections I’m putting out now.” But he doesn’t feel embarrassed when looking back at earlier work, instead calling his collections “like a diary”. “You can see as I grew up, the big life experiences that happened influenced [my style]. To say it has matured – maybe that’s the wrong word – but I would say my references have gotten more expansive with time. I look further than I used to – before it was like, who was next to me in the club.” While he doesn’t go to the clubs as much as he used to (“I’m like an old man!”), he occasionally pops in (“I love to see what my friends are wearing”), while getting inspiration from elsewhere as well. “I’m definitely a child of the internet, the internet is a huge part of it. I think designing is almost like dreaming – it’s a random compilation of everything you’ve seen, all smudged into one thing.” Cowan has made a name for himself as someone who loves to collaborate, and he often gets inspiration from his creative partners – ranging from the Teletubbies to Crocs, and now, Candy Crush Saga, who he’s designed an exclusive garment for. Called ‘The Sweet Seat’, it’s a one-of-a-kind, wearable garment inspired by the dreaded task of finding a seat to play on public transport. “Collaboration is the key to success in general in life – work, personal, everything,” he muses. “So when doing these collaborations, whether it’s a dress for Lady Gaga or this Candy Crush partnership, it’s always super collaborative. I want their opinion, I want their input, I want both partners involved and to be excited. “Especially with a celebrity wearing the clothes as well, you want them to feel amazing and excited to wear the piece – you don’t bully them into wearing something they’re not fully down for. You always have a better result if you collaborate.” Working with Candy Crush gave Cowan a welcome pause from designing his next New York Fashion Week collection, set to debut in September. “We’re doing a few things we’ve never done before that I think will be surprising to people – I just can’t wait. It’s our biggest show, the collection’s over double the size of any collection we’ve ever done before,” he shares. With designing collections for fashion week twice a year, making bespoke outfits for celebrities and all the extra projects in between, does Cowan ever suffer from fashion burnout? Cowan admits to having “brief moments in my past” where he’s struggled, but adds: “When you feel that it means you need to try something new, and I never had it again after I realised that. “I make sure I’m filled with creative, fun projects – I don’t think I’d ever get burnt out. I want to be doing this until the day I die.” The limited-edition Sweat Seat will be available for purchase on christiancowan.com/candycrush for £786.92 from July 26. Download Candy Crush today on Google Play or the App Store. 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Consistently sleeping less than five hours a night could increase the risk of depression, research suggests. Poor sleep has been considered a side-effect of mental ill health in the past, but the new study found that the link between sleep and mental illness is more complex. People with a stronger genetic predisposition to short sleep – less than five hours in a given night – were more likely to develop depressive symptoms over four to 12 years, the study led by UCL researchers found. But those with a greater genetic predisposition to depression were not more likely to have short sleep. Using genetic susceptibility to disease, we determined that sleep likely precedes depressive symptoms, rather than the inverse Lead author Odessa Hamilton The experts also found that the link was not exclusive to those who were genetically inclined towards sleeping for shorter periods, and people who regularly dozed for five hours or less – without the genetic association – were also more likely to have depression. Lead author Odessa Hamilton, UCL Institute of Epidemiology and Health Care, said: “We have this chicken or egg scenario between suboptimal sleep duration and depression, they frequently co-occur, but which comes first is largely unresolved. “Using genetic susceptibility to disease, we determined that sleep likely precedes depressive symptoms, rather than the inverse.” Researchers used genetic and health data from 7,146 people recruited by the English Longitudinal Study of Ageing (ELSA), with an average age of 65. Short and long sleep durations, along with depression, are major contributors to (the) public health burden that are highly heritable Senior author Dr Olesya Ajnakina Analysis of genetic and health data suggested that short sleep was associated with the start of depressive symptoms, like feeling sad or lonely. Senior author Dr Olesya Ajnakina, UCL Institute of Epidemiology and Health Care and the Institute of Psychiatry, Psychology and Neuroscience at King’s College London, said: “Short and long sleep durations, along with depression, are major contributors to (the) public health burden that are highly heritable. “Polygenic scores, indices of an individual’s genetic propensity for a trait, are thought to be key in beginning to understand the nature of sleep duration and depressive symptoms.” When looking at non-genetic associations between depressive symptoms and sleep duration, the researchers also found that people sleeping five hours or less were 2.5 times more likely to develop depressive symptoms. And people with signs of depression were a third more likely to suffer from short sleep. Suboptimal sleep and depression increase with age, and with the worldwide phenomenon of population ageing there is a growing need to better understand the mechanism connecting depression and a lack of sleep Professor Andrew Steptoe The study, published in Nature, Translational Psychiatry, also revealed a link between sleeping long and developing depressive symptoms. According to the findings, people who slept for more than nine hours were 1.5 times more likely to develop depressive symptoms than those who sleep an average of seven hours. However, depressive symptoms were not associated with sleeping longer four to 12 years later, which corresponded to the genetic findings. Professor Andrew Steptoe, head of Behavioural Science and Health, UCL Institute of Epidemiology and Health Care, said: “Suboptimal sleep and depression increase with age, and with the worldwide phenomenon of population ageing there is a growing need to better understand the mechanism connecting depression and a lack of sleep. “This study lays important groundwork for future investigations on the intersection of genetics, sleep, and depressive symptoms.” People enrolled in the study had an average of seven hours’ sleep a night. More than 10% slept for less than five hours a night at the start of the study period, rising to more than 15% at the end of the study. The proportion of people classed as having depressive symptoms increased by about three percentage points, from 8.75% to 11.47%. In the study, data on sleep and depressive symptoms were combined from two Elsa surveys conducted two years apart, as sleep duration and depression are known to fluctuate over time. Sleep duration and depression are both partly inherited from one generation to the next. Earlier studies have suggested depression is about 35% heritable, and that genetic differences account for 40% of the variance in sleep duration. Read More World Osteoporosis Day: The risk factors and early warning signs everyone needs to know about How to support a child with a stammer From colourful gowns to drones, these wedding trends are set take over 2024 Call The Midwife ‘should come with a health warning’ Halloween: 10 wicked ways to kit out your haunted house Black magic: Go back to black this season with the catwalk-inspired trend

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