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Defining Dishes is an IndyEats column that explores the significance of food at key moments in our lives. From recipes that have been passed down for generations, to flavours that hold a special place in our hearts, food shapes every part of our lives in ways we might not have ever imagined. There is a family scene I would love to engrave into my memory that involves my father, myself and my son, all making prawn wontons in one kitchen. Prawn wontons are so simple, like all good dishes, and they have a really special place in my heart. I have very fond memories of making them with my father, who is from Hong Kong, when I was growing up and it is my favourite dish. Now, it’s my five-year-old son’s favourite dish as well and he’s the same age I was when I first started making prawn wontons with my father, so it makes me excited to share the dish with him. When my son was younger, his Ye Ye (grandfather) would bring homemade wontons whenever he came over to my house in Peckham. But just recently, we were over at my parents’ home, and he made his first wonton. We were all very proud! It’s so nice because it’s a dish that has run right through my family, it was brought and championed here by my dad. He moved here in 1975 and has the classic first-generation immigrant story. He worked three jobs, moved around a lot, saved money and opened his first restaurant in 1985, 10 years after arriving in England. He finally retired in 2017, but he couldn’t get away from my restaurants. I opened my own establishment, Mr Bao in Peckham in 2016, and then Daddy Bao in my father’s honour. Even now when he comes around to visit, I make him talk more about restaurants. I think he enjoys it, though, and it reminds him of home. That’s really important now because ever since the 2019-2020 mass protests in Hong Kong, the country is a sad place at the moment if you’re from there. But it’s still an amazing place. My favourite part about making wontons from scratch was always the time spent with my dad. The chit chat between us, me kneeling on a stool and him standing at the counter. My hands were not as dextrous at that age and I certainly wasn’t practised, but he would be there to help show the right way to make the little parcels and finish them up for me. The bonding moment is what I cherish the most. Mum is English and she got involved too, she is actually amazing at it. Prawn wontons are also part of Christmas time for my family. Our big tradition is to have a massive steamboat on Boxing Day, which most people of Chinese descent will be familiar with. It usually involves a big, steaming pot of soup on a constant boil, and everyone sits around the table cooking fresh, raw ingredients in it and eating as they go. Prawn wontons are a big, big part of that meal for us, especially now that we have a couple of young kids running around at Christmas time, they really love it. The thing I remember most about making wontons with Dad is the filling. He has his own method for making the prawn mince that goes inside the parcels. He gets his prawns and chops them up, mixes them with any additional ingredients like garlic, and then he would make me pick up a handful of the mixture and throw it back down onto the chopping board, pick it up and throw it back down. It somehow aerates the mince and softens it, and makes it stickier so there aren’t big chunks of prawns floating around. I haven’t really adapted Dad’s recipe for myself, aside from the type of dipping sauce I like to have with them. We keep it very traditional. Oh, I suppose I do have a slight modification, actually. I like to mix gambas (white) prawns from the southwest coast of Spain with North Atlantic shrimps, which are tiny, tiny little crustaceans the size of your nail. They have got a really good flavour. I like to chop those up into the mince with the bigger prawns, add a bit of salt and white pepper, stir it through and then do the throwing method as my dad does. We usually make our own wonton skins. In a pinch, we’ll use shop-bought ones, but when we know we’ve got time we’ll make our own. At the moment, Dad makes handmade dumplings with my sister for her business so they have a dumpling skins machine – but we used to make them by hand, old-school style. He would roll them out because he could get the thickness of the skins right. It wasn’t possible when I was young as I had no idea and was clumsy! They have to be thin, but not so thin that they break or the wontons will open up in the water. It’s something I haven’t managed to master, but there’s still time. Some places don’t even use the regular wonton skins, and they are still amazing. One of my favourite restaurants ever was in Hong Kong – it has closed down now – but it was a hole-in-the-wall type of place that served two types of wontons: classic wontons or fish skin wontons. That was their entire menu. They used fish skins instead of pastry skins to wrap their wontons, and they were something like £1.20 for a bowl at the time. It was definitely the best meal I had with Mum, Dad and my sisters in Hong Kong. The wontons get boiled for two minutes. You can make a wonton soup with a base stock, using ginger, spring onions, salt, pork bones. Boil that down and skim off the top. Or, you can dip the wontons into a chili garlic sauce, which is how my dad likes – although another way I differ from Dad is that I like to add black vinegar to the sauce of soy sauce, garlic and chili, to add an extra layer of acid. You can also eat them as they are, they are completely delicious. My stomach is rumbling as I think about them. As my son gets older, it will be really nice to be able to make wontons altogether, the three generations of us at the kitchen island, chatting away. That’s what I’d like my son to take away from those sessions, the memory of doing it with his Ye Ye and me. I’d also like him to, in time, be able to link quality to food and what you’re putting in your body. I want him to understand that even though it’s so easy to go to the shop and buy something, everything starts out as a living thing. A prawn is an animal and a chive is a real plant grown in the soil. You don’t have to make it yourself and you should go to restaurants to support them, but when you do go, you’ll have a better appreciation for it. Frank Yeung is the chef-owner of Mr Bao and Daddy Bao in London. Read More The dish that defines me: Alex Outhwaite’s Vietnamese bun cha The dish that defines me: Eddie Huang’s Taiwanese beef noodle soup In Horto: Hearty, outdoorsy fare in a secret London Bridge garden Five dinner ideas from around the world to try this week Hi Barbie! Nine cocktails inspired by the doll’s most iconic outfits

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It’s easy to dismiss eczema as just itchy dry skin. But as millions of people know, the effects of eczema go way beyond this. “Eczema is so much more than ‘just an itch’,” says Andrew Proctor, chief executive of the National Eczema Society. “Affecting over eight million people in the UK, this incurable, highly visible skin condition has a huge impact on every aspect of a person’s life, extending far beyond the physical symptoms of itchy, inflamed, sore, cracked and bleeding skin. “Living with eczema means constantly having to plan and prepare, as every decision you make will potentially affect your skin. It shapes your home environment, education, career, social life, hobbies, holidays and relationships, and as a result, patients often report feeling anxious, depressed, self-conscious, isolated and helpless.” This National Eczema Week (September 9-16), here’s what Proctor wants everyone to know… 1. It doesn’t just affect children Atopic eczema affects one in five children and one in 10 adults in the UK. Proctor says: “While eczema is often viewed as a childhood condition, it affects people of all ages. Some develop eczema as babies, others in childhood, but thankfully it can improve over time.” Some people will have eczema all their life however, and some only develop it in their later years. “The important thing is to seek medical advice as soon as possible to get control of the eczema and develop an effective skincare routine,” advises Proctor. 2. It’s not contagious Proctor says that sadly, many people still think you can catch eczema. “However, atopic eczema isn’t contagious,” he stresses – pointing out it’s a complex condition involving genes, the immune system, the environment and our skin barrier. “This means skin becomes very dry and doesn’t provide sufficient protection from irritants, allergens and infection.” To tackle this, a foundation of eczema care is to apply medical moisturisers (emollients) to trap water in the skin and help reinforce the skin barrier. “Finding the emollient that suits your skin best can involve a lot of trial and error, but it’s critical to managing eczema,” says Proctor. 3. Environment plays a huge role Environmental factors can trigger eczema flare-ups or make it worse. Common culprits include stress, being too hot/cold or experiencing a sudden change in temperature, soap, shampoo and bubble bath, laundry detergent and cleaning products, perfume, pollens and moulds, pet fur, wool and synthetic fabric, and house dust mites. “Everyone will have certain things that trigger their eczema, and these vary between people,” Proctor explains. “Try keeping a diary to help identify triggers and patterns, so you can remove likely suspects and see if it helps. Triggers can also change over time and it’s worth continuing with the diary even if you think you’ve identified yours.” 4. It’s hard not to scratch Proctor explains: “One of the most maddening things you can say to someone with eczema is ‘stop scratching’. It’s not that simple! The unbearable, relentless itch is one of the defining features of the condition, and patients refer to it as torture. “You know you shouldn’t scratch, as it damages the skin and can cause infections, but the relief it provides is irresistible.” To help manage the itch, Proctor suggests finding a positive distraction or asking others to help you take your mind off it. You could also try substituting another action for scratching – press a nail on the itchy patch or tap the skin gently with your forefinger; keep your hands occupied with a ball, toy or other object; or wrap a bag of frozen peas in a towel and apply it to the itchiest area. 5. It’s a mental as well as physical battle Living with eczema is mentally exhausting too. “It can be a rollercoaster of emotions, from excitement when you start a new treatment, to despair when it doesn’t work or you experience a bad flare-up,” says Proctor. “There can be huge frustration too, when you do everything you’ve been asked and the eczema still refuses to give you any respite.” If this happens, as well as asking your GP or dermatologist for a review, it’s important to reach out to family and friends for support: “People who are able to open up about how their eczema truly affects them can feel a huge weight has been lifted.” Other ways to help cope include good nutrition and hydration, regular exercise, rest and relaxation. “Journaling, meditation and mindfulness can help you focus on the good things in your life and counterbalance negative feelings about eczema,” adds Proctor. “When so much time and effort goes into managing your eczema, it’s easy to forget there’s more to you than just your skin. Think about what you want to accomplish and formulate a plan. It’s about living successfully alongside eczema, not having your life defined by it.” For more information, visit eczema.org. The NES’ new video – More Than ‘Just An Itch’ – goes live on September 9 to mark National Eczema Week. Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live YouTube begins verifying videos by UK doctors to tackle health misinformation Should you swap your foundation for a lightweight skin tint? What should you do if you think your child is being bullied at school?