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Have you ever fallen in love with a recipe? Romesco chicken has stolen my heart this week. I’ve made it again and again, filled my phone with thirst traps of it, sent it to my mum, wooed a late night visitor with it. For me, it perfectly encapsulates this annual moment when even summer is suffering from burnout but we’re not quite ready for it to be over. It’s packed with warming flavours, but feels light enough to enjoy if the sun ever comes out of hiding. Other recipes on this week’s meal plan – sticky ginger aubergine with rice, caramelised lemon butter orzo, and creamy courgette butter beans – follow the same vein. Seasonal and fresh and interesting but hearty enough to keep the chill off in the evenings. Lastly, if anyone else has instigated a last-ditch midsummer health kick, I feel you. In an attempt to rein in my bad habit of overdoing it (an occupational hazard), I’ve been hitting the gym and eating crispy chilli beef protein bowls. I can’t promise results but I can guarantee it’s less boring than boiled chicken and broccoli. Getting your five-a-day also wouldn’t go amiss. Romesco roast chicken thighs with green beans This delightful recipe combines succulent roasted chicken thighs with a rich and flavourful romesco sauce, served alongside crisp green beans and topped with creamy feta cheese. The romesco sauce, made with roasted red peppers, almonds and spices, complements the tender chicken thighs perfectly. This dish is not only delicious but also easy to prepare, making it an ideal choice for a satisfying weeknight dinner or a special occasion. Serves: 4 Prep time: 20 minutes | Cook time: 40 minutes Ingredients: For the roast chicken thighs: 8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp salt ½ tsp black pepper 1 tsp paprika ½ tsp garlic powder ½ tsp dried thyme For the romesco sauce: 2 large roasted red peppers (from a jar or freshly roasted) ½ cup almonds, toasted 2 cloves garlic, peeled 2 tbsp tomato paste 2 tbsp red wine vinegar ¼ cup olive oil ½ tsp smoked paprika ½ tsp cayenne pepper (adjust to your preferred level of spiciness) Salt and pepper to taste For the green beans: 1 lb (450g) fresh green beans, trimmed 2 tbsp olive oil Salt and pepper to taste For serving: ½ cup crumbled feta cheese Method: Preheat your oven to 220C. Prepare the roast chicken thighs: pat dry the chicken thighs with paper towels. In a large bowl, mix together olive oil, salt, black pepper, paprika, garlic powder, and dried thyme. Add the chicken thighs to the bowl and toss them in the mixture, ensuring they are well coated. Place the chicken thighs skin-side up on a baking sheet or roasting pan. Roast the chicken thighs in the preheated oven for about 30-35 minutes or until the internal temperature reaches 74C and the skin is crispy. Prepare the romesco sauce: in a food processor, combine the roasted red peppers, toasted almonds, garlic, tomato paste, red wine vinegar, olive oil, smoked paprika, cayenne pepper, salt, and pepper. Blend until you achieve a smooth sauce consistency. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Prepare the green beans: in a large frying pan, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add the trimmed green beans and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 8-10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the beans are tender yet still crisp. Assemble the dish: once the chicken thighs are done roasting, remove them from the oven. Spoon a generous amount of romesco sauce over each chicken thigh. Serve: divide the feta-topped green beans among four plates, and place two romesco-coated chicken thighs on each plate. Sprinkle the crumbled feta cheese on top of the chicken thighs and serve immediately. Sticky ginger aubergine with rice This mouthwatering dish features tender chunks of aubergine coated in a sticky, sweet and tangy ginger sauce. Served with fluffy white rice, this recipe offers a delightful combination of flavours and textures. Whether you’re a vegetarian or simply looking for a delicious plant-based meal, this sticky ginger aubergine with rice is a perfect choice. Serves: 4 Prep time: 15 minutes | Cook time: 25 minutes Ingredients: For the sticky ginger aubergine: 2 large aubergines, cut into bite-sized cubes 3 tbsp cornstarch ¼ tsp salt ¼ tsp black pepper 2 tbsp vegetable oil 3 cloves garlic, minced 2 tbsp fresh ginger, grated ¼ cup soy sauce ¼ cup rice vinegar ¼ cup water 3 tbsp brown sugar 1 tbsp sesame oil 2 spring onions, sliced (for garnish) Sesame seeds (for garnish) For the rice: 2 cups jasmine rice (or your preferred type of rice) 4 cups water Pinch of salt Method: Prepare the rice: rinse the rice thoroughly under cold water until the water runs clear. In a medium-sized saucepan, combine the rinsed rice, water and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for about 15-18 minutes or until the rice is tender and the water is absorbed. Once done, fluff the rice with a fork and keep it warm. Coat and fry the aubergine: in a large mixing bowl, toss the cubed aubergine with cornstarch, salt, and black pepper until evenly coated. Heat the vegetable oil in a large frying pan or wok over medium-high heat. Add the coated aubergine in batches, ensuring they have enough space to cook evenly. Fry for about 3-4 minutes per batch or until the aubergine is golden brown and crispy on the outside. Remove the fried aubergine and place it on a plate lined with paper towels to drain excess oil. Prepare the sticky ginger sauce: in the same pan or wok, discard any excess oil, leaving about a tablespoon. Add minced garlic and grated ginger, stirring constantly for about 1 minute until fragrant. Mix in the soy sauce, rice vinegar, water, brown sugar and sesame oil. Bring the sauce to a simmer and cook for about 2-3 minutes until it thickens slightly. Combine the aubergine and sauce: add the fried aubergine to the pan with the sticky ginger sauce. Toss the aubergine in the sauce until it’s well coated and the sauce thickens to a sticky consistency, about 2 minutes. Serve: serve the sticky ginger aubergine over a bed of fluffy rice. Garnish with sliced spring onions and sprinkle sesame seeds on top for an extra touch of flavour and presentation. Creamy courgette butter beans This luscious and comforting dish combines tender courgettes with creamy butter beans in a flavourful sauce. The courgettes add a refreshing taste and a vibrant green colour to the dish, while the butter beans bring a velvety texture and richness. Infused with herbs and spices, this recipe is not only easy to prepare but also a delightful way to enjoy the goodness of vegetables and beans in one delicious meal. Serves: 4 Prep time: 10 minutes | Cook time: 20 minutes Ingredients: 2 medium courgettes, diced 1 can (14 oz) butter beans, drained and rinsed 1 small onion, finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 tbsp olive oil 1 cup vegetable broth (or water) ½ cup heavy cream or coconut cream for a dairy-free option 1 tsp dried thyme ½ tsp dried oregano ½ tsp paprika Salt and pepper to taste Fresh parsley, chopped (for garnish) Method: In a large frying pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the chopped onions and sauté until they become translucent, about 2-3 minutes. Add the minced garlic and cook for an additional 1 minute, being careful not to burn the garlic. Stir in the diced courgettes and cook for about 5 minutes or until they start to soften. Add the drained and rinsed butter beans to the pan, stirring them with the courgettes and onions. Pour in the vegetable broth (or water) and bring the mixture to a gentle simmer. Let it cook for about 5 minutes, allowing the flavours to meld and the beans to heat through. Reduce the heat to low, then add the heavy cream (or coconut cream) to the pan, stirring well to combine. Let it simmer gently for another 3-4 minutes, allowing the sauce to thicken slightly. Season the dish with dried thyme, dried oregano, paprika, salt, and pepper. Adjust the seasonings to your taste preferences. Once the courgettes are tender and the sauce has thickened to your desired consistency, remove the pan from the heat. Serve the creamy courgette butter beans hot, garnished with chopped fresh parsley for a pop of colour and added freshness. Caramelised lemon butter orzo with cavolo nero This delectable recipe features caramelised lemon-infused orzo pasta, paired with nutritious cavolo nero. The sweet and tangy flavours of caramelised lemon butter perfectly complement the earthy taste of cavolo nero, creating a delightful and wholesome dish that’s both satisfying and nourishing. This dish is a delightful vegetarian option that will surely impress your taste buds. Serves: 4 Prep time: 10 minutes | Cook time: 20 minutes Ingredients: 1 cup orzo pasta 2 tbsp unsalted butter 1 large lemon (zest and juice) 2 tbsp brown sugar 1 bunch cavolo nero, stems removed and leaves chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced ¼ cup vegetable broth or water Salt and pepper to taste Grated parmesan cheese (optional, for garnish) Fresh parsley, chopped (for garnish) Method: Cook the orzo: in a medium-sized pot, cook the orzo pasta according to the package instructions until al dente. Drain the cooked orzo and set it aside. Caramelise the lemon butter: in a large frying pan, melt the unsalted butter over medium heat. Add the brown sugar and stir until it dissolves into the butter. Reduce the heat to low and add the lemon zest and juice, stirring to combine. Let the mixture cook for about 2-3 minutes until it thickens slightly and becomes caramelized. Add the cavolo nero: increase the heat to medium and add the minced garlic to the caramelised lemon butter. Sauté for about 1 minute until the garlic becomes fragrant. Add the chopped cavolo nero to the pan and toss it with the lemon butter mixture. Cook the greens: pour the vegetable broth (or water) into the pan with the cavolo nero and lemon butter. Cover the pan and let the greens cook for about 3-4 minutes until they wilt and become tender. Stir occasionally to ensure even cooking. Combine orzo and cavolo nero: add the cooked orzo to the pan with the caramelised lemon butter and cavolo nero. Toss everything together until the orzo is evenly coated with the flavourful sauce and the greens are distributed throughout. Season to taste: season the dish with salt and pepper to your preference, adjusting the flavours as needed. Serve: transfer to a serving dish. Optionally, garnish with grated parmesan cheese and chopped fresh parsley for an extra burst of flavour and colour. Crispy chilli beef protein bowls These crispy chilli beef protein bowls are a delightful and flavourful combination of tender, crispy beef tossed in a sweet and spicy chilli sauce, and served with a nutritious assortment of vegetables. This protein-packed bowl is not only delicious but also a balanced and wholesome meal that’s perfect for a quick and satisfying lunch or dinner. Serves: 4 Prep time: 20 minutes | Cook time: 20 minutes Ingredients: For the crispy chilli beef: 450g beef sirloin or flank steak, thinly sliced ½ cup cornstarch ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp black pepper 2 cups vegetable oil (for frying) 2 tbsp sesame oil 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 red bell pepper, thinly sliced 1 green bell pepper, thinly sliced 4 tbsp sweet chilli sauce 2 tbsp soy sauce 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 1 tbsp honey or brown sugar (adjust to your preferred sweetness) 1 tsp sriracha sauce (adjust to your preferred level of spiciness) 2 spring onions, sliced (for garnish) Sesame seeds (for garnish) For the protein bowls: 4 cups cooked brown or white rice (your choice) 2 cups shredded lettuce or mixed greens 1 cup shredded carrots 1 cup sliced cucumber 1 avocado, sliced Lime wedges (for serving) Method: Prepare the crispy chilli beef: in a large mixing bowl, toss the thinly sliced beef with cornstarch, salt, and black pepper until all the pieces are evenly coated. In a wok or deep frying pan, heat the vegetable oil over medium-high heat until it reaches around 175C. Carefully add the coated beef slices to the hot oil in batches, ensuring they have enough space to fry evenly. Fry for about 2-3 minutes per batch until the beef turns crispy and golden brown. Remove the fried beef using a slotted spoon and place it on a plate lined with paper towels to drain excess oil. In a separate pan, heat sesame oil over medium heat. Add minced garlic and sauté for about 1 minute until fragrant. Add the thinly sliced red and green bell peppers to the pan and stir-fry for 2-3 minutes until they start to soften. In a small bowl, whisk together sweet chilli sauce, soy sauce, rice vinegar, honey (or brown sugar) and sriracha sauce to make the chilli sauce. Pour the chilli sauce over the sautéed bell peppers and garlic in the pan. Stir to coat the vegetables with the sauce. Add the crispy beef to the pan and toss everything together until the beef is well coated in the sweet and spicy chilli sauce. Cook for an additional minute to let the flavours meld. Prepare the protein bowls: divide the cooked rice among four serving bowls. Top each bowl with shredded lettuce or mixed greens, shredded carrots, sliced cucumber and avocado slices. Spoon the crispy chilli beef over the vegetables in each bowl. Garnish with sliced spring onions and sesame seeds for added flavour and presentation. Serve with lime wedges on the side for an extra tangy kick. Read More Marina O’Loughlin is wrong – there’s joy in solo dining Budget Bites: Three recipes to keep food bills down before pay day School holidays sorted: Fuss-free and nutritious family dinner recipes A week’s worth of summery recipes (even when the weather is dire) The dish that defines me: Frank Yeung’s prawn wontons Discovering Sierra Leonean flavours in South London

In an era of rampant price increases, the cost of Costco's meal combo hasn't changed in nearly 40 years.

Against all odds, London’s food scene is still thriving. Proof is in the unfathomable number of new restaurants that open every week in the capital, and the thousands of diners still clamouring for a booking. It’s almost impossible to keep on top of. But, as a professional eater (or, more aptly, snob), here’s a non-exhaustive list of favourites that have sparkled in the past 12 months. Some of our recommendations are as follows. Get elbow-deep in a steaming cauldron of seafood at Brat-famous Tomos Parry’s Mountain in Soho (the only one to earn five stars from us, if the accolade exists). Gorge on goat curry in The Good Front Room, Dom Taylor’s well-earned prize for winning Channel 4’s Five Star Kitchen. Go classic at Paris-abroad eatery 64 Goodge Street or Mayfair’s grandiose 20 Berkeley, an ode to the brilliance of British produce. Or have fun at Papi, the new home for pandemic troublemakers Matthew Scott and Charlie Carr. There’s much more, and surely more to come. Stay tuned (and hungry). Mountain ★★★★★ Brat is back. Well, more specifically, its head chef and co-founder Tomos Parry is, with his new opening Mountain, in Soho. The formula is much the same as what gave the 2018 hit its cult status: wood-fired cooking combining Spanish influences with Parry’s Welsh heritage, plus excellent wine. Well, if it ain’t broke… And it certainly ain’t. Sobrasada toasts with honey and guindilla pepper pray at the altar of salt, spice, smoke and fat. I never thought a bowl of tripe would get people so excited, but apparently it does. A spider crab omelette, its innards submissively oozing out like one of those satisfying TikTok videos, has even the egg-adverse at the table gleefully tucking in. Another in our party, fists to the table, demands bread – baked onsite, of course, the butter organic, cultured, from Cardigan. But among many myriad must-haves, there is one that’s truly worth shelling out for: the Anglesey lobster caldereta (£90 for three to four or £120 for four to five). A steaming cauldron (hence the name) of charcoal-roasted Welsh lobster chunks bathing in a broth made satiny from the velvet crab and grilled salt cod stock. Get elbow deep, don’t wear white, let them demand bread. If turbot put Brat on the map, this is the dish that will define Mountain. And just like that, Brat grew up. There’s no elbow-grazing Shoreditch hipsters here, for one thing. Everything that made its younger sibling over-hyped (my DMs are closed) makes Mountain glorious. Take your friends, take your dates, or both, order the hits, go off-menu for wine, then saunter off into Soho for the evening quite content. 6-18 Beak St, London, W1F 9RD | mountainbeakstreet.com| bookings@mountainbeakstreet.com The Good Front Room ★★★★☆ The lack of variety in London’s melting pot of fine dining cuisines has long been a point of contention and one that hardly needs arguing. Do we really need another French bistro? It’s possible to get bored of bon bons and beurre blanc, believe me. What’s not boring is curried goat that falls apart at the slightest tap of a fork in a sauce as thick as blood, mopped up with still warm roti bread or smeared with fingers or straight-up slurped from the bowl. Can I take a bath in it? Salt cod and ackee (that oddly savoury, scrambled egg-like fruit) fish cakes with confit garlic and scotch bonnet aioli. A single dark rum-caramelised king prawn in a nest of dasheen salad and coconut sambal. Unwrapping a banana leaf like a gift to find ginger marinated sea bream. Even dessert has me salivating at the memory: a toasted spiced bun with sweet blue cheese, sour cherries and plantain chutney. Dessert should always have a hint of savoury. No, I’m not in Brixton. I’m in The Good Front Room at the five-star West End hotel The Langham, chef Dom Taylor’s prize for winning Channel 4’s Five Star Kitchen, in a room with ceilings as high as a church, rubbing elbows with punters more familiar with paying £200 for dinner than under £20. Taylor’s real triumph, though, is his menu, inspired by Caribbean flavours and a south London upbringing, which is the perfect cure for fine dining’s chronic case of aridity in the capital. Curried goat belongs here. It’s also the best possible justification for never seeing a French menu again. 1C Portland Pl, London W1B 1JA | langhamhotels.com/en/the-langham/london/good-front-room | 020 7636 1000 64 Goodge Street ★★★★☆ In a world full of innovations, sometimes it’s nice to revel in the classics. And call me Jackie Collins but is there anything as classic as a vol-au-vent? They’re still enjoying their moment in the sun and it shines particularly brightly at 64 Goodge Street, the newest opening from the Woodhead Restaurant Group, who can be reliably called upon for reliably brilliant eateries. Actually, it’s pretty dimly lit at 64 in a Parisienne sort of way – sans red and white tablecloths – which is precisely the point. To steal a phrase from Diana Henry, it’s hard to eat this well in Paris. The aforementioned vol-au-vent is thankfully not stuffed but exists as an extremely fluffy mopping up tool for the very French sauce américaine. The lobster tail that comes with it might be one of the best I’ve had. Elsewhere on the French classics bingo card are snail, bacon and garlic (need I say more?) bon bons, which are teed up like gooey golf balls. Nicoise makes a rare appearance, but correctly dumps tuna for rabbit. What would a counterfeit French bistro be without beurre blanc? This one is thicc and slides under perfectly plump scallops and lentils. Sea bass or saddle of lamb are tempting, but instead we mistakenly tuck into overly salty squab pigeon, which is somewhat rectified by a scoop of ice cream for dessert. Really, it’s the exclusively burgundy wine list that got me through the door. I don’t want to develop a habit of eating my words but perhaps there’s room for one more excellent French restaurant in London. Already in its groove when I visit just a week after opening, 64 Goodge Street could be it. Head chef Stuart Andrew has nailed French food without the faff – just don’t look at the bill and it’s no different to dining in Paris. 64 Goodge Street, London, W1T 4NF | 64goodgestreet.co.uk | 020 3747 6364 20 Berkeley ★★★★☆ Eschewing the kitsch party-restaurant theme that seems compulsory in this part of town, Mayfair’s 20 Berkeley promises “the feeling of being in a home, the British Isles your back garden”. Well, if your home is an enormous Georgian-era country manor house in central Mayfair, that is. Navigate this veritable warren and unfold the origami-style menu, though, and you’ll realise this isn’t the same kettle of fish as, ahem, Sexy Fish, Amazonico, Annabel’s or Bacchanalia, to name a few of its noisy neighbours. If the menu is a love letter to excellent British produce, then the language of love is a plump scallop scantily clad in a sliver of lardo, canoodling a hot-in-the-middle black pudding tortellino in a bath of foamy sorrel veloute. It’s the crunch of a deep fried courgette blossom, the slick ooze of the smoky cheese within, a lick of elderflower honey. It’s gently teasing the flesh of a slow-grilled turbot away from the bone, using confit potatoes dribbled in aioli to mop up its juices. We longed for the Herdwick lamb, jutting pink and proud from a tomato fondue, or the brazenly butch rib-eye that prompts sighs of content from a neighbouring table. Alas, bellies full, we allow the Nipperkin bar below and its serious slinger of seriously good cocktails Angelos Bafas (formerly of personal favourite Soma in Soho), to envelop us. First a highball concoction of whisky, meadowsweet, strawberries, Earl Grey and strawberry “paper”, then martinis that don’t mess around, and then… I forget. You know it’s a night to remember when you simply don’t. Mayfair has been calling out for a place like this, and thank god 20 Berkeley answered. 20 Berkeley Street, London, W1J 8EE | 20berkeley.com | 020 3327 3691 Papi ★★★★☆ My visit to Papi, from Hot 4 U’s Matthew Scott and Wingnut Wines’ Charlie Carr, in London Fields, turned out to be a lesson in why pairing your guest with the restaurant is just as essential as pairing Cab Sav with steak. As a not-at-all-cool person, I wanted to bring a cool friend along to cool new Papi – not realising the menu was so heavily seafood focused and forgetting her aversion to anything remotely fishy. At the two-chef counter, within bantering distance of Scott and co, I had a front row seat to all the delicious things we weren’t ordering. A mound of clams drenched in bright, briny red pepper romesco. Huge langoustines, naked but for dashi vinegar and roe. Oysters… sigh. And though I am forced to make decidedly unfishy choices, the food, as the kids say in the part of town, slaps. Rebel coppa with mustard seeds gets us salivating. Hunks of winter tomato (better than summer’s, I’ll be taking no further questions) and shredded shiso leaves are glazed in a holy trinity of kecap manis, black garlic and black vinegar. We lick the plate clean. Scott points out a bottle of the stuff on the counter. I consider necking it. I’m happy to be persuaded out of my resentment for garlic bread when a grilled, fermented (squidgy and cute) potato cake topped with whipped ricotta and wild garlic arrives. If the food is fun to eat, the wine is just as fun to drink (when isn’t it?). For guaranteed great vibes with a dose of nostalgia, you’re in the right place. They’re just as serious about food and wine as they are about a good time. Go hungry, get a counter seat, but, most importantly, don’t take someone who doesn’t like seafood. 1F Mentmore Terrace, London Fields, E8 3DQ | papirestaurant.com | 07961 911 500 Portrait Review by Lucy Thackray ★★★★☆ It’s possible that you’ve never paid much attention to London’s gallery and museum restaurants, but once you start looking for them, there are many. They’re not the edgiest joints in town, nor somewhere you’d drop in for an impromptu bite. Instead, what they’re great for is a gift – an art fix and a posh lunch or dinner as a day out. I have such a food-and-art pairing in mind when I take my dad to The Portrait, the new Richard Corrigan restaurant at the National Portrait Gallery, the final touch to a major three-year renovation of the gallery that finished in June. It certainly is a glow-up, but the light and minimal design lets the view (which is pretty spectacular) and the food do the talking. Here’s what it has to say: instantly intriguing things about artichoke with crab mayonnaise and kombu, “snails bolognaise” over conchigliette, a duck heart vol au vent, pig’s trotter with borlotti beans and something described only as “cauliflower, yeast, seeds” (we skip that one). Much of it is what you’d expect from Corrigan – earthy flavours from the UK and Ireland, plenty of fish and veg, but with a few curiosities thrown in. With dainty-portioned mains at £22-32, there are no bargain bites, but the style of food and the option of set menus (£28 for two courses, £35 for three) feels nicely suited to an exhibition ticket as a present or treat. A meal here can be as good value and restrained or lavish and decadent as you make it – surely true of any day out in the capital. The Portrait Restaurant, National Portrait Gallery, St Martin’s Place, London, WC2H 0HE | theportraitrestaurant.com | 020 3872 7610 Read the full review here Llama Inn ★★★☆☆ That a pisco sour isn’t the first thing on the menu at Shoreditch’s new modern Peruvian restaurant Llama Inn suggests they might be doing things a little differently. The first cocktail on the list is actually a gin “mini-tini” (a trend I shan’t be supporting) with a blue-cheese stuffed olive, which I’m sure would have made for an interesting aperitif had they not run out of blue cheese on the night. Starting my meal with a shot of brine isn’t my usual modus operandi. Ceviche, anticucho and saltado do abound elsewhere, though, with welcome (and some less so) twists. I’m repeatedly recommended the summer fruits ceviche as the best thing on the menu, though I can’t fathom why as vinegary slices of nectarine and melon leave quite a lot to be desired. They should instead recommend the two anticuchos, the cabbage and the octopus, which are chargrilled to perfection and drizzled with delights: sweet miso on the former, spicy-sour on the latter. We swerve the “un poco de todo” (a bit of everything) section on account of two of the four dishes containing pork and my non-pork-eating guest not being swayed by bok choy salad or courgette stew (an oversight that needs correcting). Instead, we’re stunned by the whole fish patarashca, which comes with a quaffable fruity-spicy curry sauce. But for the Gram, you should get the lomo saltado – a mound of stir-fried beef and fries to be wrapped in scallion pancakes. The NYC outpost might have earnt a Michelin Bib Gourmand, but London’s version could struggle to compete. That said, where Llama Inn ever so slightly misses on food, it makes up for in vibes. The hideaway terrace is a romantic spot to while away the last hours of summer. Better to stick to the theme and order a pisco sour. Llama Inn, 1 Willow Street, London, EC2A 4BH | llamainnlondon.com | reservations@llamainnlondon.com Zapote ★★★☆☆ Modern Mexican isn’t typically a catchline that gets me going. Haunting visits to Chiquitos and Wahaca as a teenager haven’t placed the cuisine high up on my list of frequent cravings. There’s a lot of bad tacos out there. But at Zapote, the brainchild of Mexican chef Yahir Gonzalez and hospitality veteran Tony Geary (you can thank him for Sketch), I’m prepared to eat my words… and a fair few tacos. The tortillas are knocked out fresh every day for the purposes of mopping up smooth and zingy guacamole, surfing under yellowfin tuna and spicy crab (piquant, fishy, delicious), and hosting beef tartare, which comes with a side of roast bone marrow in case you felt the bread-to-meat ratio was off. Arguably its best role is in a basket alongside thick slices of just-charred lamb neck on a smoked aubergine and tamarind puree. Some are hits, others are misses. Cutting a single tortilla in half to share with my date in full view of an open kitchen full of chefs seems like sacrilege, though. Stray from the tacos, however, and Zapote comes into its own. The scallop ceviche, that so overdone dish, here shines with persimmon, orange and grilled corn. Sweet white crab and black bean pozole, served in the shell, initially confuses the palate, then develops in flavour like a polaroid of old Mexico. Baby artichokes that cut like butter are also very good, served with a dollop of pipian verde, that bedrock mole. Wash it down with a Mezcal margarita and you’ll be saying, “Wahaca, who?!” If the food could do with some finessing, so could the setting. A backdrop of terracotta walls, murals and cacti fails to make the extraordinarily large space, formerly occupied by the ill-fated St Leonards, feel as intimate as its menu. When they say there’s a “bar area”, what they mean is they’ve just cordoned off some of the tables with a little curtain. There’s simply more they could do with the space. And yet, where most middling dining experiences put me off a return visit, there was just enough mystery that I could be tempted back. 70 Leonard Street, Shoreditch, London, EC2A 4QX | zapote.co.uk | 020 7613 5942 Epicurus Review by Kate Ng ★★★☆☆ Camden has long been known as the spiritual home for misfits. It’s also where punky pair and Israeli chefs Shiri Kraus and Amir Batito have opened their restaurants, The Black Cow and the newer Epicurus, just minutes away from each other. Like its older sister, Epicurus takes its culinary cues from across the pond – this time putting an Israeli twist on the all-American diner. The punny menu includes delights such as the “Oof Gozal” – chicken wings coated in a yellow Amba mango and Scotch bonnet sauce. Despite the fearsome chilli, these wings are barely spicy, favouring the flavour of the Scotch bonnet over the heat. They are incredibly moreish and the fact that your fingers end up being absolutely covered in sauce is only an invitation to get licking. You should also definitely get the “Papi Chulo”, a mix of crunchy deep-fried okra and soft padron peppers covered in spices that come with a lemony-garlicky-chilli aioli for dipping. Another honourable mention goes to the Epicurus single decker burger, which is also available as a double. It contains some of the richest, fattiest ingredients I’ve ever seen between buns, like bone marrow aioli and Baron cheese, and it does border on being a bit too unctuous. Boy, am I glad there’s no calorie counts on this menu. Is it worth elbowing your way through the thronging crowds of Camden Lock Market to get to Epicurus? I think it will be. Never mind the cheap tat and endless boba tea shops, head to Epicurus for a tasty escape. Unit 90, The North Yard, Camden Stables Market, NW1 8AH | epicuruscamden.co.uk | 07843 199560 Read the full review here Casa do Frango ★★★☆☆ Just a few months ago, I was touring the Algarve on the trail of authentic piri piri (I know, it’s a hard life). Days were well spent gorging on the local speciality of reverse-spatchcocked chicken brushed thrice with chilli oil and glugging local vino verde. It rained most of the time, if that helps. Back in London, though, and similar offerings are slim but the weather is much the same. Portuguese, alongside Spanish and those other misunderstood Mediterranean cuisines, and particularly the food of the Algarve is not well represented in the capital. Except at Casa do Frango, which literally translates to “chicken house”, and is strictly Algarvan. Say no more, I’m there, at their newest location in Victoria, to be precise. Don’t expect mind-blowing, out-there cuisine but do expect a truly authentic taste of the Algarve. The perfect order looks like this: order something drenched in their secret recipe piri piri oil to start (the prawns will do) and dip hunks of sourdough into it because… obviously. The main event is the piri piri half chicken (also comes in oregano or lemon and garlic for the spice intolerant/wimps out there). Shred that between two of you along with the African rice – with chorizo, plantain and shards of crispy chicken skin – and a salad, then finish with a chocolate mousse, an Algarvan classic found in most chicken houses. Stay within these strict parameters and you’ll understand why millions of Brits flock to Portugal’s southern tip every year. There’s various other things on the menu and seasonal updates but let’s not pretend like you’re here for anything other than chicken. Like I said, minds won’t be blown but a good time will be had. The wine is also decent – strictly Portuguese with some great Douro Valley reds but the wonderfully acidic world of vino verde, particularly their exclusive Boa Pingo, is worth a visit. Sir Simon Milton Square, London, SW1E 5DJ | casadofrango.co.uk/victoria | 020 3943 7777 | victoria@casadofrango.co.uk Read More The dish that defines me: Michele Pascarella’s Neapolitan ragu Seven super simple recipes for each day of National Rice Week Three healthy recipes to get back on track after summer Is bottomless prosecco going to be killed off by climate change? Budget Bites: Three ways to pimp up university student classics Epicurus: American fast food meets the Middle East in Camden Market

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Brooklyn-based art collective MSCHF have officially sold their crumb-sized bag for a staggering $63,000 for Pharrell William's online auction house, Joopiter. Following the success of their Big Red Boots, the designers returned with a "bag" measuring just 657 by 222 by 700 micrometres. It's modelled on Louis Vuitton's OnTheGo handbag, where Pharrell currently acts as the brand's creative director. Despite this, MSCHF'S chief creative officer Kevin Wiesner candidly told the New York Times that he did not ask the French brand for permission to use their design. "We are big in the ‘ask forgiveness, not permission’ school," Wiesner told the publication. On Wednesday (28 June), the microscopic bag sold for $63,750. Other items included in the auction were said to include: A 'Portrait of an English Lady' by George Condo ($1,050,000), a Lewis Hamilton x Takashi Murakami F1 Grand Prix Helmet ($387,500), a Louis Vuitton x Virgil Abloh Dream House Window Mannequin ($65,000) and a Pharrell Williams x Richard Mille RM 65-01 ($481,250). Sign up for our free Indy100 weekly newsletter It comes after the brand made waves earlier this year with a peculiar pair of boots that soon circulated on social media. Donned by the likes of WWE wrestler Seth Rollins, rapper Lil Wayne and Diplo, the MSCHF's Big Red Boots became an overnight hot topic with polarised views across the internet. "Man if y’all don’t get these big ugly ass Clifford the big red dog looking ass shoes outta here," one person joked, while another added: "This how I used to draw everybody feet in elementary school." Meanwhile, there were many fans of the Big Red Boots, with one writing: "I’m sorry I wanna buy me some so bad." Have your say in our news democracy. Click the upvote icon at the top of the page to help raise this article through the indy100 rankings.