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Senate ditches dress code as Fetterman and others choose casual clothes
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Menswear has made women feel confident for centuries, but will the gendered separation ever cease to exist?
I remember the day I realised the embodiment of my persona was a long-sleeve ironed shirt with only the collar close-lipped. Initially, I gravitated toward the crisp button-down for function, as my former workplace tended to emit heaps of chilly air, but a spontaneous feeling compelled me to button the top, leaving the rest of the shirt open. It may have been, in part, my obsession with wanting to define my look outside of popular construction or how this new silhouette framed my figure. Regardless, the androgynous piece of clothing left me feeling more confident than ever before. A clothing rack full of these formal tops sits perpendicular to my bed now, and I wear them strategically closed with almost every outfit. I couldn’t tell you exactly what it is about them that makes me feel alluring and powerful, but my style hasn’t been the same since. Now more than ever, women are setting aside archival forms of womenswear for the structure of men’s clothing, assuming their most confident, authentic selves. Mini denim shorts, bodycon dresses, and micro skirts are being swapped for baggy jorts and boxers. Individuals are donning contrasting proportions, taking risks, and exuding self-assurance in items that have historically been deemed representative of masculine codes in Western fashion. In doing so, women are diminishing the gap between gendered collections. According to Hazel Clark, professor of fashion studies at Parsons School of Design, women initiated the crossover between menswear and womenswear in the early 19th century when they started working in coal mines and riding horses. A working-class of women deliberately assumed the male dress code, whether business or activity related, because womenswear constricted their necessary movement with tight bodices and corded petticoats. Here, function and ability took precedent over society’s expectation of femininity as more opted to dirty a pair of trousers instead of their voluptuous gowns. Heading into the Second World War and the 20th century, the design gap minimised further when women’s roles in society advanced. In the 1940s, men were forced to leave their factory jobs for war, leaving their female counterparts to fill their positions. For women to be respected in the workplace, they mirrored the male look and wore the classic pantsuit. Francesca Granata, professor of fashion theory and history at Parsons, identified the “power suit of the 1980s” as “a classic instance of women trying to access men’s power in the workplace by wearing an outfit which imitated menswear and with wife shoulders: the ideal male physique.” She noted: “Yet the wide-shouldered suit jacket was often rendered appropriately feminine by being paired with a skirt.” With this came an influx of women wearing these masculine codes outside of the workplace. Though my grey dress pants from the men’s section of a closet sale were welcomed into my weekly rotation almost immediately, it took a lot of courage and self-assurance back then for women to wear similar pairs, just like it did for them to wear miniskirts when both styles were socially unacceptable. The initial need for “businesswear” transformed into desired style even if it meant a woman could be labeled as “inappropriate” or be refused at the door of an establishment. Looks from men turned to public disapproval, but that didn’t stop the progression of women dressing in menswear at all. “Although baggy clothing has been acceptable for men for quite some time, especially in the US, unlike older appropriation of menswear which were often adapted to be more skintight or revealing or somewhat rendered ‘feminine’ baggy clothes question the old dictum that women’s bodies should be on display for the male gaze,” Professor Granata remarked. In other words, this “sense of power dressing” left the confines of the office environment alongside any lingering thought to the heteronormative gaze. Fast forward to the early 21st century, when the groundwork for this fashion fusion had been laid in terms of utility and preference. As society began to understand sexuality and gender fluidity, non-gendered collections became increasingly popular. Designers became more proactive about creating androgynous clothing that didn’t need to be separated into the two typical identifiers: women and men. “Fashion must get to a point where we don’t have to talk about gender,” designer and creative director of Loewe Jonathan Anderson wrote in Amelia Anderson’s “What We Can Do Better” in 2021, nine years after he introduced the first transgender collection for his eponymous brand. “Fashion can be a way to experiment with character or to work out your identity, and I believe that clothes can have a protective role on a more emotional level.” Anderson’s obsession with how queer individuals dressed contributed to his perception that fashion can be used to “break the rules”. To him, clothing is a marker of individuality and subculture, which is what motivates him to create designs for people to express themselves free from outdated norms. Between boxy, textured T-shirts, bouncy blouses, and tailored high-waisted pants, Anderson’s worked to incorporate rival style cues even in his gender-specific collections. “Clothing is full of paradoxes, but ultimately it can empower us - and in a world that has historically taken power away from queer people, that can be vital,” he proclaimed. “In a world that often expects certain things for certain people when it comes to clothes - where society wants men, say, to wear some things, and women to wear others - I sometimes question why I do menswear and womenswear shows. But for me, it’s not about classifying people, it’s about using these categories as ideas - ideas to borrow from.” As designers helped bridge the gap, celebrities like Hailey Bieber and Bella Hadid have been seen being more experimental in campaigns for big name brands as well as in their personal street style. The 26-year-old Rhode Skin founder has been a recognised ambassador for the French fashion house, Yves-Saint Laurent, a company which has irrevocably impacted womenswear since their 1966 creation of a menswear-motivated tuxedo for women called “Le Smoking.” Both Bieber and Hadid blend feminine and masculine codes in everyday wear, leading the craze for oversized jean shorts and lengthy vintage sportswear paired with dainty ballet flats and platform boots. Other brands, such as Uniqlo and Thom Browne, design collections labelled and distributed as menswear and womenswear, but the items are still being bought and worn interchangeably. “It’s hard to explain,” Marissa Petteruti, senior menswear designer at Rag & Bone, tells The Independent when asked why she feels more assured in men’s clothing over feminine-labelled pieces. “I’ve always just felt more comfortable in, you know, oversized men’s shirts and pants. I kind of always have gravitated toward men’s fashion. I remember when I was a kid, my parents used to tell me: ‘You have to wear a skirt one day a week.’ I never saw why I couldn’t wear whatever I wanted. So maybe part of it became going against what my parents wanted me to do.” Petteruti has cultivated a closet full of suit pants, designer shirts, and vintage bomber jackets in pursuit of the perfect capsule wardrobe and collection of exclusive ready-to-wear. Ever since she attended the Parsons School of Design, pressure and expectation were absent from her style. Here, Petteruti was drawn to the serenity of menswear, and she appreciated the simplicity of its form more than women’s clothing. Her eyes wandered to streetwear brands such as Supreme and Hood-by-Air because the concept of a lux T-shirt intrigued her, and oversized pieces were pleasing. When she started at Rag & Bone, she learned that men’s tailoring was more extensive, but even so, the trends were ephemeral - meaning the pieces were inherently timeless. Womenswear detailing such as peplum cuts, scallop or lace trimming, floral embellishments, and sheer fabrics tend to cycle through seasonal collections more frequently than the stylistic choices and material preferences within menswear. The classic button-down may be presented in a specific range of colours depending on whether it’s fall or spring, but the shape and design stay the same. In other words, womenswear is more likely to follow suit with trends. Industry leaders and A-listers embracing a more avant-garde mindset in ready-to-wear and street style begs the question of whether brands will ever officially scrap the formal separation of womenswear and menswear. “Why do they have to be called ‘men’s clothing’? Just ‘cause you put the buttons on one side of the shirt and the fly on one side of the shirt and the reverse. It’s, it’s silly to me,” Petteruti agreed when asked if she thought the division was necessary. “I mean, the interesting thing about fashion now is at any given moment, it’s so diverse. We don’t all wear the same things to be in fashion. If we wanted to be in fashion, I mean, regardless of our sort of age or gender, you know, they’re like lots of different choices we can make, depending on the kind of the group we associate with or who we follow,” Clark explained. But Clark doesn’t believe concrete separation is on the horizon, due to the sizing and proportional differences between a man versus a woman. “Men’s and women’s bodies are different. You know, I mean, that’s part of it. Size and physique will prevent womenswear and menswear from being entirely infused with one another,” she proclaimed. Petteruti would argue that there’s potential. Already, she’s seen Rag & Bone mix more feminine codes into their menswear designs with varying fabrics and silhouettes. Being that inspiration is often plucked from the demand and visibility of others who motivate obsessions, the runway no longer dictates style fads. This means it may be expensive on the backend for companies, but we could see collections move away from the label if consumers want more androgynous, unisex pieces. As for Granata, she interprets the division of womenswear and menswear as already having been “tenuous,” which is exactly why women found themselves gravitating toward masculine codes to begin with. Read More How hip-hop went from being shunned by big business to multimillion-dollar collabs Dior celebrates 5 years as designer in gender-fluid Paris men's show Womenswear leads the way as Ted Baker sales soar
2023-08-11 23:58
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Express Announces Brian Atwood as Creative Director of Footwear
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2023-08-29 21:16
Peru shamans 'neutralize' Neymar in World Cup qualifier ritual
Dressed in colorful ponchos, a group of Peruvian shamans tie up an effigy of Neymar as they seek to "neutralize" him ahead of Tuesday's World...
2023-09-12 05:57
Anne Hathaway taking inspiration from Gen Z as she embraces variety in fashion
'The Devil Wears Prada' star Anne Hathaway is inspired by Gen Z after learning to take more risks with her own style.
2023-08-30 17:15
Jonah Hill’s girlfriend Olivia Millar gives birth to first baby
Jonah Hill, the Superbad actor and filmmaker, has welcomed his first baby with his girlfriend Olivia Millar. Hill, 39, was absent from his sister Beanie Feldstein’s wedding on 20 May and he did not appear in any photos or anywhere throughout Feldstein’s Vogue profile, raising speculation that the baby’s arrival may be imminent. The 21 Jump Street actor’s girlfriend was first seen with a baby bump in late March, in photos published by The Daily Mail. Hill’s representatives have now confirmed to the American publication People that Millar gave birth to a child in May but did not announce the baby’s name. Millar is the co-owner of an online vintage shop called Chasseresse, a business she owns with her sister. She was first spotted with Hill in August 2022 and the pair have been romantically linked ever since, keeping their relationship out of the public eye. Hill was previously engaged to photographer Gianna Santos before splitting in October 2020. Hill was then linked to surfer Sarah Brady and shut down claims that the two were engaged in February 2022. The Don’t Look Up actor, who has been more candid about his personal life in recent years – mainly his mental health – revealed in an open letter to fans that he has long dealt with anxiety and panic attacks. His Netflix documentary Stutz, a conversation between Hill and his longtime therapist Phil Stutz, was made to give other people the tools he learned through therapy. Hill decided not to promote the film but instead wrote a letter to his fans, which read: “The whole purpose of making this film is to give therapy and the tools I’ve learned in therapy to a wide audience for private use through an entertaining film. “Through this journey of self-discovery within the film, I have come to the understanding that I have spent nearly 20 years experiencing anxiety attacks, which are exacerbated by media appearances and public-facing events.” Read More Triathlete proudly shares ‘beautiful’ racing photo where she bled through swimsuit while on her period Prince William overheard telling Kate to ‘chop chop’ at Jordan royal wedding A Place In The Sun’s Jonnie Irwin admitted to hospital amid terminal diagnosis
2023-06-03 20:55
Sitting this many hours a day ‘rapidly increases’ dementia risk, study warns
Adults who spend a large part of their day engaging in sedentary behaviors are more prone to dementia, a new study finds. The research, published on Monday in the journal JAMA, found that people aged 60 and older who spend over 10 hours a day engaging in behaviors like sitting while watching TV or driving could be at increased risk of developing dementia. Scientists, including those from the University of Southern California say, the findings are concerning since Americans on average are sedentary for about 9.5 hours each day. In the study, researchers assessed the data from about 50,000 adults over the age of 60 who had wrist-worn accelerometers to measure their movement for 24 hours per day for a week. The individuals did not have a diagnosis of dementia at the start of the study, scientists noted. They then used a machine-learning algorithm to analyse the dataset of accelerometer readings and classify behaviors based on different intensities of physical activity. Using the AI system, scientists could differentiate between different types of activity and sleeping – providing an objective measure of the time each person spent engaging in different types of sedentary behaviors. After an average of six years of follow-up, researchers used hospital records and death registry data to determine dementia diagnosis, and found 414 participants had the neurological condition. Scientists then adjusted for factors such as age, sex, education level, race/ethnicity, chronic conditions, genetics as well as lifestyle characteristics like physical activity, diet, smoking and alcohol use, self-reported mental health. They found that sedentary behavior was linked with increased risk of dementia among the participants. However, they found that certain amounts of sedentary behavior was not associated with dementia. “We were surprised to find that the risk of dementia begins to rapidly increase after 10 hours spent sedentary each day, regardless of how the sedentary time was accumulated,” study author Gene Alexander from the University of Arizona said. “This suggests that it is the total time spent sedentary that drove the relationship between sedentary behavior and dementia risk, but importantly lower levels of sedentary behavior, up to around 10 hours, were not associated with increased risk,” Dr Alexander added. Researchers call for more studies to establish causality and whether physical activity can mitigate the risk of developing dementia. The findings, according to scientists, “should provide some reassurance to those of us with office jobs that involve prolonged periods of sitting, as long as we limit our total daily time spent sedentary”. Read More What it’s like having Menopause Brain in a millennial office Josh Duhamel and wife Audra Mari announce they’re expecting first baby together Woman warns not to ignore symptoms after hot flushes lead to leukaemia diagnosis Poor metabolic health ‘linked with 12% higher risk of dementia later in life’ Sleeping pill could reduce levels of Alzheimer’s proteins Daily aspirin dose can help prevent diabetes in older people, scientists say
2023-09-13 15:27
Controversial chef John Tesar ‘removed from hotel’ after altercation with striking workers
Controversial chef John Tesar was reportedly removed from a hotel that houses one of his restaurants after an alleged altercation with striking workers. The Michelin-starred chef, who was championed by the late TV chef and author Anthony Bourdain, has been described as the “most controversial chef in Dallas” due to his notorious outbursts. In a video obtained byPageSix, the 64-year-old can be heard yelling at picketing staffers outside the Laguna Cliffs Marriott in southern California, where his restaurant, Knife Modern Steak, is located. According to the publication, Tesar approached picketers and allegedly broke a drum that one of the workers was holding with a metal kitchen spoon. “Take your union and shove it up your ass,” he can be heard yelling, before turning to walk away. As the workers call him out for his remarks, he turns back and tells them to “suck my d***”. “You’re a bad person,” he tells one of the strikers. “You’re a lazy pendeja.” Sources claim that Tesar was infuriated by the noise of the protest, which included “drumming and chanting”. After the incident with the picketers, he was reportedly escorted from the property by staff. A hotel spokesperson said: “We have zero tolerance for violence of any kind. The actions and behaviour of Mr Tesar are not reflective of our values or our commitment to fostering a positive and safe work environment for all associates. We immediately removed Mr Tesar from the property and are examining appropriate next steps.” The Independent has contacted Tesar for comment. Bourdain once wrote of Tesar that he was “probably the single most talented cook” he had ever worked with, but also noted what he perceived to be problematic behaviour. “Tesar pretty much wrote the book on this behaviour pattern: finding a way to f*** up whenever success threatens, accompanied by a countervailing ability to bounce back again and again, or at the very least, survive.” In a 2018 interview, he spoke about his fiery appearances on Top Chef and claimed he’d become “more introspective” in his later years. “The first season I was on, I caught a lot of flak because I’m blunt and often say how it is,” he told FSR magazine. “People tended to pick on me because I have no filter and I react. But this last season, I learned how to filter out the white noise and put my head down and cook, but still have a story to tell.” Read More Jamie Foxx and Jennifer Aniston issue statements over ‘antisemitic’ Instagram post Will Smith says daughter Willow’s ‘mutiny’ changed his view on success Eye masks, kombucha and ‘the full spectrum of milks’: Gwyneth Paltrow finally gave us a tour of her fridge Marina O’Loughlin is wrong – there’s joy in solo dining Steakhouse starts selling vegan filet mignon School holidays sorted: Fuss-free and nutritious family dinner recipes
2023-08-06 19:55
'Bluey: The Videogame' will let you play as Mum, Dad, Bingo, and Bluey
We've known that a Bluey video game has been in the works since July, but
2023-09-20 10:59
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