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Defining Dishes is a new IndyEats column that explores the significance of food at key moments in our lives. From recipes that have been passed down for generations, to flavours that hold a special place in our hearts, food shapes every part of our lives in ways we might not have ever imagined. My earliest memory of Taiwanese beef noodle soup is the first time I compared the version my mother makes and then going out to eat it at restaurants. It was just terrible outside the walls of my home, just a sad watery soup with no flavour. I was born in Washington DC but grew up in Orlando. In America, and even in some places in Taiwan, there are a lot of places that are lazy when it comes to making beef noodle soup. They just whip up a thin broth with ginger, spring onions, some type of chilli. Then there are other places trying to do expensive s***. They’ll try and promote it by saying, “Oh, I use dry aged beef” or “I use this super expensive stock”. But that’s all unnecessary. What Taiwanese beef noodle soup needs is time, not anything fancy. What do we do when we cook? We apply the right level of heat to the proper amount of time to the proper ratio of ingredients. That’s it. With this dish, the longer you let it simmer, the better it is. The flavour develops and becomes richer, the beef becomes fall-apart tender. It’s so simple and humble, all it takes is time. I make mine using two separate stocks. I make a master stock, which begins with simmering meat and bones for a long time so it becomes really flavourful. Then I make another stock with my aromatics – including ginger, spring onions, garlic, fresh chili peppers and dried red chili peppers, and Szechuan peppercorns – and sauces, like dark and light soy sauce and rice wine. Doing it separately allows me to strain the aromatics out and keep the broth really clean so that each bite is consistent. For the protein, I use beef shank and oxtail. The thing that sets my beef noodle soup apart is that I use chilli oil as well as fresh chilli for that acid kick. That’s something I haven’t seen other people do, most dishes use just chilli oil. I’m also quite loyal to tomatoes in my beef noodle soup. A lot of people make it with either tomato or no tomato, it’s one of those divisive things. People will ask, “Are you a tomato beef noodle soup guy or you’re not a tomato guy?” I’m a tomato guy because it gives the dish more umami and another layer of acidity. The chillies and tomatoes combined deliver different levels of acidity. Between those three, they cut through the fattiness of the beef. I don’t over-skim my soup either, I leave all the globs of fat in there to keep it rich, but the acidity stops it from being excessive. I’m agnostic about the type of noodle I use in my soup. I served it once to my homies with a really good number 10 Italian spaghetti, which is a finer noodle than regular spaghetti. They were like, “Yo, this is crazy”. It totally changed the dish, I’ve never had it like that. Most people use a Chinese wheat noodle, some do knife-cut noodles and others do hand-pulled. They’re all fine for me. I’m mainly here for the broth, which I’ll just drink a lot of the time. I do like knife-cut noodles though, I would love to try that. But mostly I will serve it with a Chinese wheat noodle or spaghetti, because it’s the closest you can get to wheat noodles if you can’t get them. The difference between my mum’s beef noodle soup and mine is that she doesn’t add the chilli oil and fresh chillies. But I have to say that my mum will tell you that my beef noodle soup smokes hers. It’s just that much better. She does not f*** with me anymore. There are certain dishes that I practice so much and she just says, “I’m not playing with you anymore, right?” But she’s still the best at home-style small dishes and stir fries, like baby dried fish with peanuts, red-cooked pork or lion’s head meatballs. But some other dishes, my mum gives me the nod. She doesn’t make them anymore, she’s like, “You make it”. It’s fun to say, “Alright, you taught me and I really, really mastered it”. I was never one to do it just like my mum. I was always going to learn how she does it and then I’m going to make it a little bit better. Beef noodle soup is incredibly close to my heart, it’s the only dish that occupied an entire chapter of my memoir, Fresh Off The Boat. I wrote at the time that the best part of beef noodle soup is that there are no rules and you can add whatever you like as long as it has the essentials: beef, noodle, and soup. I like it the most because there is nowhere to hide with this dish. Just take your time. Eddie Huang is the chef-founder of Baohaus. He wears many hats, including author, presenter and director. Read More Eddie Huang: ‘I’ll never eat at BAO London – I know mine’s better’

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Naomi Campbell stole the show at Milan Fashion Week as Dolce and Gabbana unveiled their spring/summer collection. The iconic supermodel walked the runway in black lingerie, a form-fitting, sheer slip dress, stockings and suspenders, with a black rose corsage around her neck. Watching from the front row were a host of celebrities including Kylie Jenner, British model Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Halle Bailey, star of the Little Mermaid movie. Love Island host and recent D&G campaign star Maya Jama was also in attendance, wearing a long-sleeved black dress with patent knee-high boots. Italian designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana took ‘underwear as outerwear’ to the extreme with this collection. Almost entirely black and white (apart from a handful of leopard print looks), the show opened with a series of ‘office meets boudoir’ outfits that combined pinstripe tailoring with visible lingerie. A few floaty polka dot frocks appeared before the lingerie parade continued with a dizzying array of sheer dresses, ruffled blouses and corset gowns that revealed black bras, knickers, stockings and suspenders underneath. Plus-size model Ashley Graham walked the show in an all-black ensemble. The former Vogue cover star donned a corset and high-waisted briefs with a sheer overlay, stockings and high heels. Russian model Irina Shayk wore a diaphanous slip dress over black lace lingerie. Other underwear-clad models were styled with see-through plastic macs and matching rain bonnets. There was a more sedate section of the show featuring a range of black and white high-necked shift minidresses, some with bib fronts or lace collars, plus several tuxedo jackets. A pair of black skinny jeans was a huge shock given the prevalence of baggy denim on the spring catwalks. Shortly before Campbell took her turn on the runway, a pair of sheer white lace gowns worn over – you guessed it – matching lingerie offered some very sexy bridalwear options. While this collection didn’t deliver much that can be worn in a church, the lacy underwear-esque dresses will no doubt be a hit with celebs who want to send the flashbulbs popping on the red carpet.

Pope Francis is due to meet the tiny but vibrant community of Catholics in Mongolia on Saturday, part of his first papal visit to the Buddhist-majority nation strategically...

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Cardi B has made a fashion statement on the 2023 MTV VMAsred carpet with a dress made entirely of silver hair clips. On Tuesday 12 September, the “WAP” singer arrived on the pink carpet at the Prudential Center in Newark, New Jersey, ahead of the annual awards show. For the occasion, Cardi B chose a floor-length, strapless silver gown by Dilara Findikoglu, which, upon closer look, was found to be entirely covered with silver hair pins and pearls. Cardi B paired the embellished dress with matching arm cuffs, which also featured the hair accessory. She completed the look with a sleek and straight hairstyle that was parted down the middle. While walking the pink carpet ahead of the awards show, which celebrates the best music videos and artists of the year, Cardi B opened up about her creativity when it comes to her fashion choices. “I’m a creative. I have to be creative with everything, with my clothes, with my pictures, everything. My visions have got to come to life,” she told MTV. On social media, the unique dress proved to be a hit with fans, with one person tweeting: “Cardi stuns as always,” while another said: “This is such a cool look omg.” In addition to taking to the stage as a performer during Tuesday night’s ceremony, Cardi B is also nominated in the category of Best Hip-Hop video for her collaboration with GloRilla on “Tomorrow 2.” Read More 2023 MTV VMAs: The best-dressed stars on the red carpet, from Olivia Rodrigo to Doja Cat Olivia Rodrigo wows in sparkly silver gown on the 2023 VMAs red carpet: ‘She did it again’ Selena Gomez returns to the VMAs red carpet in red gown for first appearance since 2015

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Adidas says it may write off the remaining 300 million euros ($320 million) worth of Yeezy shoes left unsold after it cut ties with rapper Ye, formerly known as Kanye West