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Emily Scott has called the UK’s southernmost county home for 25 years, but the chef’s roots in the region go back even further. “I spent a lot of time in Cornwall as a child, because my grandparents had a house down here,” says Scott, 48, on a video call from her home near Newquay. “And also in France, because my grandfather was half-French and they lived out in Provence.” Born in Sussex, she moved to the picturesque village of Port Isaac aged 23 and married her first husband, a fisherman, and the couple had three children, Oscar, 21, Finn, 20, and Evie, 18. “Sadly, I divorced the fisherman – or not sadly, I’m not sure – but actually, it’s all very amicable. “But I chose to stay in Cornwall… and my career has just grown and got better and better.” Scott’s first foray into food was the seaside Harbour Restaurant in Port Isaac, followed by eight years running the much-loved St Tudy Inn gastropub and rooms. Now, she’s creative director (“I’m not apron-on as much as I used to be”) at Emily Scott Food, the restaurant that sits on the sea wall at Watergate Bay. What unites all these culinary outposts? “I’ve been banging the simplicity drum for a long time – my food’s all about seasonality, but also not too much faffing around.” That ethos is evident in her second cookbook, Time & Tide, which includes plenty of one-pot main dishes, simple suppers and satisfying bakes. “It’s about times of day,” says Scott, who lives with her partner Mark Hellyar, a winemaker, and her children. “There’s a lovely chapter called ‘morning cafe’ with lots of nods to my French roots, because that’s just a very natural thing for me. We’ve got ‘rise and shine’, meaning breakfast time, we’ve got ‘seaside soirees’.” The recipes reflect Scott’s trademark Cornish-French fusion with seafood – scallops, mussels, mackerel, crab – taking centre stage alongside French culinary classics like beurre blanc, bouillabaisse, ratatouille and creme brulee, while Cornish sea salt and clotted cream appear on many an ingredients list. The book cover features a quote from American actor and foodie Stanley Tucci, who has become a friend. “It’s just been a very natural coming together through food,” says Scott. “You know, when you see him on television in his Italy series, he genuinely is that person. He genuinely loves food and wine, and that’s what connects everyone in my view.” The chef and author didn’t always have such a favourable view of feasting. She had anorexia in her teens and was forced to drop out of school. After going in and out of treatment, she was offered the opportunity to go and work in a hotel restaurant in France. “It’s quite a normal thing for people with eating disorders to end up in food, I think, because, I mean, you can’t give up food,” Scott says. “I just ended up – kind of through choice – just recovering, and turning my rather unhealthy relationship with food around, and finding the joy of cooking for people.” In 2021, the restauranteur got the chance to cook for some very important people when she was asked by the Cabinet Office to cater a dinner for world leaders at the G7 summit in Cornwall’s Carbis Bay. “They were looking for something slightly different – they didn’t want the very formal, old school, white gloves [style],” Scott says. “I submitted my menu and told them I’d be giving them tea towels as napkins, and we’d have French Duralex glasses, mismatched cutlery, that kind of thing, and they loved it.” On the menu was melon gazpacho, turbot with miso beurre blanc sauce, and strawberry and elderflower pavlova, followed by “little mini ice creams for the petit fours and Cornish fudge we made. So it was all quite nostalgic nods to the seaside”. What was it like emerging from the kitchen at the end of the meal to greet diners including then UK prime minister Boris Johnson, US president Joe Biden, French president Emmanuel Macron and German chancellor Angela Merkel? “It was literally like, you know when you go to a friend’s house for dinner, but you’re really late and you turn up and everyone’s had a drink? I was suddenly surrounded,” Scott recalls. “President Biden had his arm around me, I had Macron and his wife signing my book, because my book had come out the day before, then I had Angela Merkel saying, ‘We must get a photograph now, come on’. It was quite a moment really.” Even better, the proud mum got to share the experience with her kids: “Oscar, my eldest, and my partner’s daughter served the world leaders, and my son Finn was in the kitchen cooking as part of my team. I thought, as a parent, I’m done!” Plus, the feedback on the food from the VIPs was top notch. “They loved it. And what was so nice is I said to [the organisers], ‘I want them to be relaxed. I want them to stay longer’,” Scott says. “The secret service were like, ‘They ran over time, they were so relaxed’. We did our job.” ‘Time & Tide’ by Emily Scott is (Hardie Grant, £28).

The internet is roasting Ben Shapiro after he watched the Barbie movie wearing an outfit that was almost identical to the one Ryan Gosling wears as Ken. On 21 July, the conservative commentator tweeted a photo of himself inside a movie theatre where he attended a screening of the new Barbie film, which stars Margot Robbie as the titular Barbie doll and Ryan Gosling as her paramour, Ken. “My producers dragged me to see ‘Barbie’ and it was one of the most woke movies I have ever seen,” Shapiro wrote on Twitter, alongside a photo of himself wearing a black T-shirt tucked into a pair of black pants with a matching black belt. “My full review of this flaming garbage heap of a film will be out on my YouTube channel tomorrow at 10am ET.” Unsurprisingly, it didn’t take long for many Barbie fans to point out that Shapiro was seemingly wearing the exact outfit that Gosling wears as Ken during the film’s musical performance of “I’m Just Ken”. “You hated it so much you cosplayed as a Ken,” replied one user on Twitter. “My brother in Christ, you are wearing a Ken cosplay,” another person joked. “I hated it so much I had to dress like ken and get a cute outfit photo with the movie poster,” a third person said, while someone else wrote: “Ken Shapiro out here pretending he was ‘dragged’ to this movie while giving full Kenergy.” Despite his accidental Ken fashion moment, Ben Shapiro proceeded to post a 43-minute scathing review about the “woke” Warner Bros film. “Well, folks, wasting two hours of my precious time, two hours I will never get back, two hours around my deathbed I will wish that I had not spent that time doing. It makes me viscerally angry,” he said, waving a notepad at the viewers and setting fire to a Barbie doll in the clip. Shapiro condemned Gosling’s portrayal of Ken as “annoying and ridiculous” and criticised the film for including a transgender Barbie character, played by actor Hari Nef. The conservative commentator argued that many parts of the film are too mature for a younger audience, as he claimed that his theatre was full of “youngish and middle-aged moms” with their “six, seven and eight-year-old girls”. He also refuted that the real world in the film has a patriarchal system, and pointed to the women-centric cast and crew of Barbie. “I mean, Greta Gerwig is a lady. She’s making a good living off of this,” Shapiro said. “Margot Robbie is playing the lead. In fact, the entire cast aside from basically Ryan Gosling is women, so it seems like women are doing okay.” Ben Shapiro isn’t the only conservative to share their Barbie hot takes. Last week, Republican congressman Matt Gaetz and his wife Ginger Gaetz attended the red carpet premiere of Barbie at the British Embassy in Washington, DC. After the Barbie screening, his wife took to Twitter to share her list of critiques, including that the film “neglects to address any notion of faith or family” and that it contained “disappointingly low T from Ken”. “Thinking about watching the Barbie movie? I’d recommend sticking to getting outfit inspiration and skipping the theater,” she tweeted. “Here’s why: The Barbie I grew up with was a representation of limitless possibilities, embracing diverse careers and feminine empowerment. The 2023 Barbie movie, unfortunately, neglects to address any notion of faith or family, and tries to normalize the idea that men and women can’t collaborate positively (yuck).” Ginger Gaetz concluded her Barbie review by listing what she felt were the pros and cons of the movie. “Pros: Margot Robbie’s performance, Stunning costume design, Amazing soundtrack,” she wrote. “Cons: Unfortunate portrayal of big dreams causing anxiety instead of inspiration, Disappointingly low T from Ken, Unfair treatment of pregnant Barbie Midge.” Despite Barbie’s negative reviews from conservative commentators calling the newly-released film “woke”, the live-action movie is estimated to amass more than $300m (£233m) internationally, making it the most successful opening of an original non-superhero film ever. Read More Ben Shapiro mocked for posting 43-minute video rant about Barbie movie as he sets fire to doll Barbie on track to earn biggest ever box office opening for non-superhero film With ‘Barbie,’ Greta Gerwig breaks a box office record for female directors America Ferrera points out ‘revolutionary’ detail in original Barbie Dreamhouse America Ferrera reveals her guilty pleasure is ‘not showering for a few days’ Mattel accused of ‘stealth marketing’ after giving away free Barbie dolls in schools