The moment the first crates of English sparkling wine were pulled up from the depths of the Arctic Ocean off the coast of Sandnessjøen, Tani Gurra, the director of beverages for Norway’s Hurtigruten Coastal Express, shed a tear. Or so I’m told – I’m currently watching the raising of the third crate of wine from a boat alongside other members of the press. Prior to this bright but teeth-chatteringly cold day, all 1,700 bottles had been sitting 30 metres below the surface of the Arctic Ocean for six months, the first time any wine has been aged in these waters. It’s an exciting day for the Hurtigruten team and Rathfinny Wine Estate, the Sussex winery where the bottles have been sourced. Husband and wife team Mark and Sarah Driver are here, watching the dark bottles of their 2018 classic cuvee emerge from black Nordic waters. Everyone is anxious to see if they have survived their time under immense (43.5psi) pressure. To our relief, every bottle and wax-sealed cork ascend intact. Love wine but don’t know where to start? The Independent Wine Club features curated cases from small growers and expert advice on how to enjoy wine. Sign up now for free. Around 24 hours before this jubilant moment, I found myself on a Hurtigruten ship, sailing from the Lofoten archipelago to Tromsø. With it being late spring, we were quickly approaching midnight sun territory; at 12am, we were invited onto the deck to view the majestic Trollfjord. But instead of the pitch black of midnight, we were surrounded by the distinct blueness of twilight. The remaining snowcaps on the fjord almost glowed in the dark. Even though it’s been around for 130 years, Hurtigruten struggles to define itself – it’s not a ferry, despite ferrying thousands of Norwegians from town to town along the coast, nor is it a cruise, despite giving tourists who spend days fjord-watching a rather luxurious experience. Several times throughout the trip, people would ask: “So is it a cruise or a ferry?” And each time, the answer was something along the lines of: “It’s sort of both, and neither.” The ships have immense charm, despite their neither-here-nor-there status. The number of passengers each one can take varies, but the MS Nordkapp, on which I am sailing, boasts capacity for up to 590 passengers, around 480 of which can book cabins if they want to join 12-day voyages that will take them to numerous ports along the way. They are nowhere near as large as the behemoth cruiseliners that groan with the weight of on-board casinos, theme parks, ballrooms and spas, burping and farting tons of chemicals into the ocean. Hurtigruten’s fleet is tiny in comparison and each vessel has a limited number of facilities: two small hot tubs in lieu of a spa, a gym, a cafe with a bakery and an ice cream bar, a fine dining restaurant, and a bar with panoramic views of the outside world. From June, the ships will offer passengers hankering after a glass of bubbly a taste of their sea-sunken sparkling. The collaboration between Hurtigruten and Rathfinny is part of its 130th anniversary celebrations, but the goal is to make the wine their house sparkling. The classic cuvee is the estate’s “house-style” Sussex sparkling and gained critical acclaim almost immediately after it hit the market. The Independent named it the best classic cuvee in 2022 and described it as “exemplary English winemaking”, noting “precise flavours of citrus and apricots and hints of cream”. But sinking the bottles is something Rathfinny has never tried before, until now. It was Gurra’s idea. He and Andre Petterson, vice president of hotel operations at Hurtigruten, decided to give the method a shot after seeing news that a group of divers found 168 bottles of French champagne on an underwater shipwreck in 2010. The bottles, discovered in the Baltic Sea, were 170 years old and had spent decades in what could have been a watery grave – but instead turned out to be the perfect temperature-controlled cellar for ageing wine. “I started thinking and talking about it, and thought, ‘Why not? Why can’t we do something like this? The Arctic Sea is a part of us, and we already source food from all along the coast of Norway,” Gurra tells me. “For us, the fjords are fish stocks, the mountains are our vegetable and herb gardens. Why not the sea for wine?” But Norway is better known for its spirits, not its wine. They cast their eyes towards England, from which a significant portion of their passengers hail, and landed on Rathfinny. It is rather poetic that the Rathfinny Wine Estate has on its label the Seven Sisters – the iconic chalk sea cliffs that make the Sussex coastline so recognisable. The location where they’ve chosen to age their wines has its own Seven Sisters: a mountain range on the island of Alsten in Alstahaug Municipality. Mark and Sarah are buzzing to show off their label and the unexpected connection with Norway during the uncorking of their wines. Mark says: “We are really proud to showcase Sussex in Norway. English wines have been making a name for themselves and it really is something special for us to be on Hurtigruten ships, especially as they are really popular with English tourists.” I had the chance to taste the Rathfinny classic cuvee before and after the undersea ageing process. The before-wine was a lovely, dry sparkling; my notes read “sharp bubbles, fruity”. It’s easy to see why it’s a firm favourite among wine-lovers, considering its versatility and ease of drinking. How could six months underwater possibly change it, I wondered? During the uncorking, I am pleasantly surprised. The time the wine has spent in the sea has made it somehow rounder, gentler on the tongue. Gurra describes it as having a more “feminine touch” and being “softer, smoother” to drink. Nikolai Haram Svorte, who was crowned Norway’s best sommelier this year, was invited to be the first to try the wine and give his verdict. Against a steely grey sky, he sabered the first bottle and tasted a glass, declaring it “the start of something truly exciting”. He added: “The wine has retained more freshness than I anticipated. From the refreshing citrus tones to a mineral salty finish, like an oyster, it’s clear to me that this hugely intriguing experiment has revealed a unique setting to store and age sparkling wine.” My own feeling is that the newly aged bubbles will be a big hit among passengers of Hurtigruten. The softer mouthfeel makes it even easier to drink, and I can envision clinking glasses while watching Norway’s majestic landscape float past. Read More The curious history of sauvignon blanc – and what to drink if you hate it The Independent Wine Club best cases 2023: Wine from small growers Win a mixed wine case, perfect for pairing with food The Independent Wine Club best cases 2023: Wine from small growers Win a mixed wine case, perfect for pairing with food Uncorked: How do I keep my wine cool at a picnic?

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In a nutshell: Fine food and relaxation in a wonderfully serene part of the world The neighbourhood Loch Fyne Hotel and Spa sits waterside on the banks of Scotland’s longest sea loch in the western region of Argyll and Bute. Situated a 65-mile drive from Glasgow, this picturesque route skirts Loch Lomond before taking the meandering A83 through the dramatic Arrochar Alps mountain range. Big skies, wide open space and the undeniably peaceful feeling of being beside this Atlantic Ocean inlet make this special part of the world the ideal sanctuary for those seeking some R&R. While the hotel benefits from feeling very much away from things, it’s actually only a 10-minute walk from the small town of Inverary with its gothic 18th-century castle and excellent walking trails (hike to Dun Na Cuaiche for a breathtaking view). Don’t leave without a pint of local ale in The George Hotel. Read more about UK travel: The best hotels in Loch Lomond The best Christmas breaks in the Lake District Best beach stays in the UK and Ireland: Hotels, cottages and more The vibe Think Highlands hunting lodge with a warm Scottish welcome. Built in 1856, this historic building was known as Admiralty House during World War II, when it became the only place outside London to be used as a wartime cabinet office, with visitors to the building including King George VI, Winston Churchill and General De Gaulle. It found a second lease of life in 1945 when it was transformed into a hotel. Traditional gold-framed portraits of Scottish nobility, tartan carpets and tweed furnished seats in colours inspired by the surrounding natural environment are very much the aesthetic, although a 2019 refurbishment to rooms and a brand new spa has introduced a more contemporary feel to proceedings, with marble tables and plush furnishings. Bed and bath There are 68 rooms, ranging from Petite Doubles to one of four suites in the hotel’s oldest wing; Glen Ord and Lagavulin both have feature windows with stellar views across the loch. Vintage touches include rotary telephones and vintage DAB radios, while welcome trays include Tunnock’s tea cakes, mineral water, coffee and a selection of teas courtesy of The Wee Tea Company. White subway-tiled bathrooms contain rainfall showers, while suites include freestanding bathtubs and his and hers sinks. Sustainable locally made toiletries are provided courtesy of The Highland Soap Company, while fluffy bathrobes and soft slippers come as standard for elevated lounging. My Shackleton bed was blissfully comfortable, with quality mitre linen keeping me cosy throughout the night. Food and drink Kick things off with a wee dram in the cosy Loch View bar. In addition to cocktails, spirits and wine, there’s a good selection of local beers and an impressive selection of whisky. Squishy leather sofas, marble tables and a fireplace make this the perfect place for a tipple with a view thanks to the floor-to-ceiling windows looking over the loch. Cladach Mòr Bistro is an AA rosette awarded restaurant with a focus on Scotland’s excellent produce and with Loch Fyne internationally renowned for the quality of its seafood, it’s the ideal place to dive in. Produce is sourced locally (but of course), with a dream selection of seafood and meat, meaning it’s not the best option for vegetarians and vegans. Langoustines were succulent and bouncy, scallops tender and lemon sole delicious. The venison was also an absolute treat and beautifully cooked. Staff were knowledgeable and warm. Public areas Significant cash has been splashed at the hotel’s new Shore Spa, and it’s largely been a successful investment. The indoor 15 metre pool includes aqua jets to obliterate any persistent muscular knots, while a steam room invites you to sweat it out. Step outside to switch it up in the barrel sauna, before rinsing in the drench shower and hopping into the hot tub with views across the loch. Therapists at the adjacent Inverary Spa, which offers a good selection of treatments, including facials, massages and scrubs, are experienced and professional, and use award-winning natural ishga skincare products made from Scottish seaweed. In addition to the bar and restaurant area, there’s also a games room, with board games to entertain all ages, and an under-stairs snug to escape to with a book. Nuts and bolts Room count: 68 Freebies: Tea, coffee and sweet treats in bedrooms. Wifi: Free wifi is available to all guests throughout the hotel. Extra charges: None. Disability access: The hotel has an access level and a lift to guest bedrooms across three floors. All public areas are accessible. The Cladach Mòr Bistro restaurant, Loch View bar, private rooms and spa are all on the ground floor. The original/older part of the building does not have lift access, however. Pet policy: Well-behaved dogs are welcome in all guestrooms, reception area, Loch View lounge bar and the hotel grounds. Dogs staying overnight are subject to a £20 charge per evening; no charge for service dogs. Bottom line Best thing: Friendly service and those loch views. Worst thing: The “hot” tub was not especially hot during my stay. Perfect for: A relaxing weekend break. Not right for: Stag and hen dos. Instagram from: The hot tub. Read more of our UK hotel reviews: The best spa hotels in the Scottish Highlands Best luxury hotels in Scotland Best hotels in Glasgow Read More The best New Year’s hotel breaks with entertainment This hotel has opened the Lake District’s first ‘spa garden’ The best all-inclusive UK breaks to celebrate the New Year How to do winter in London right The best new hotels that opened in the UK this autumn Why you should explore the Cotswolds by bike

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