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In 1953, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel reopened her couture house after a 14-year hiatus at the age of 70. “Why did I return?” the legendary fashion designer later posited in an interview with Life magazine. “One night at dinner, Christian Dior said a woman could never be a great couturier.” It’s a quote that perfectly captures everything Chanel represents to this day, more than a century after she opened her first millinery shop in Paris in 1910. It also happens to be nestled in the enormous boarded timeline of the designer’s life that greets visitors to Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto, a major retrospective of the French couturière’s work, at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Marking the first time that a UK exhibition has been dedicated entirely to Chanel, it charts the designer’s humble beginnings in the Loire Valley of France through to the establishment of her eponymous brand and the evolution of her creations throughout the years. Incorporating gowns, suits, jewellery, fragrances and accessories, the exhibition features more than 50 of the designer’s famous tweed suits alongside several fragile pieces usually stored deep within the belly of the V&A’s archive. “We were very aware of the classic things people know about Coco Chanel,” says curator Connie Karol Burks, referencing the designer’s famous little black dresses, the 2.55 handbag and her tweed suits. “We really wanted to spotlight much more of what she contributed to fashion, and a bit more of her approach to designing clothes, like her need for comfort, simplicity and freedom of movement.” It’s a modality easily expressed from the start of the exhibition, the entrance to which is a subtle, black, perfume-like box on the ground floor (the museum’s usual rotunda-like fashion space is currently occupied by its Diva exhibition). When downstairs, visitors may be surprised to find flowing frocks fitted with bows and pockets from as early as the 1930s. “She was an active independent woman, primarily designing for herself,” explains Karol Burks. “These were practical and elegant clothes.” Practicality, as we soon learn, was an integral part of Chanel’s oeuvre. The exhibition celebrates the designer’s penchant for streamlined garments, clothes that rejected the stiff and restrictive aesthetics that had defined women’s wear just a few years earlier. It also includes details of her deep connection to Britain, including her friendships with figures from high society. While staying at the respective homes of Winston Churchill and the Duke of Westminster, Chanel embraced British sport, which is thought to be how the corresponding aesthetics of tweed and knitted jerseys found their way into her collections. Also included here is a sketch of Chanel painted by Churchill while the two were staying at the Duke of Westminster’s Scottish retreat in 1928. “Coco is here,” he wrote to his wife at the time. “She fishes from morn till night, & in two months has killed 50 salmon.” Elsewhere, highlights include the Chanel “Ford”, the name given to the designer’s little black dress that became a global staple for women everywhere. There are evening gowns aplenty, and an optic-white room entirely dedicated to the creation of the designer’s iconic perfume Chanel No 5, as well as an oval-shaped section devoted to Chanel’s tweed suits, with two rows of them spanning the curve of the room. As has already been reported, the exhibition also doesn’t shy away from Chanel’s controversial wartime activities. It features previously unseen documents illustrating evidence of her collusion with Nazis during the Second World War, while also, confoundingly, unearthing evidence that indicates she was a member of the French resistance. “It’s such a complex thing to get your head around,” says Karol Burks. “We felt it was important to have it in the exhibition and to display those original documents. But they almost give more questions than answers.” Unlike the V&A’s Dior exhibition, which charted the brand’s existence beyond the life of its founder, the Chanel retrospective ends with the designer’s death in 1971. Given the label’s extensive history in modern culture, perhaps this makes sense: there’s only so much you can squeeze into one show. But in many ways, it is a limitation that produces a lingering sense of intrigue around the designer herself. “Despite there being over 175 biographies [of Chanel], she’s still being written about and new information is still coming to light,” Karol Burks adds. “I don’t think anyone has quite pinned down who Gabrielle Chanel was. The more you learn about her, the less you know.” ‘Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto’ runs from 16 September until 25 February at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum Read More Loved in triangles, dressed for liberation: The queer fashion secrets of Virginia Woolf and the Bloomsbury Group Young people not snowflakes or wasters, says curator of rebellious fashion exhibition Pharrell Williams designed his first collection for Louis Vuitton for himself

Hollywood has been caught in a tailspin ever since Get Out, with a number of

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RICHMOND, Va.--(BUSINESS WIRE)--Aug 31, 2023--

Hermes sales jumped as wealthy shoppers in the US and Europe splurged on the French company’s pricey Birkin

This has already been a huge summer of British sport, with more still to come. There’s the ongoing Women’s World Cup, for starters, with England among the contenders. There has already been Wimbledon, The Open has just finished and the Ashes’ fifth Test is now underway. But amid all this, there’s a world championship to be won right in the heart of London: the final races of season nine in Formula E, the all-electric motor racing series which culminates at the end of July. Ahead of a milestone campaign next year, the championship is still in growth mode, attracting fans and redefining itself in terms of on-track action, with alterations made across the board in terms of the racing on show, the coverage across the season and, importantly, the visibility in the lead-up to the showpiece event. This week, that means much of the capital city has been exposed to events and takeovers featuring electric cars, racing drivers and brands all associated with the teams and championships itself, raising awareness, interest and – hopefully – longer-term following of a credible, exciting championship. Achieving such awareness on a weekend where so much is happening elsewhere in sport – not least of all the Belgian Grand Prix in F1, the established powerhouse of motor racing – might not seem the easiest task, but FE has its own loyal following already and regularly sells out its races around the world. Back in January at the season opener, 40,000 packed into Mexico City’s famed Autodromo and, across Saturday 29 and Sunday 30 this weekend, the same number will visit ExCel London to watch the team and driver titles handed out – the latter quite possibly to a British driver on home soil, with Jake Dennis leading the standings. This year, Formula E has brought a brand new third-generation (Gen3) EV to the track, added another new city in Tokyo for next season and broken speed records on a consistent basis, while the profile of the 11 teams involved is impressive even to those with a casual knowledge of car manufacturers: they include Porsche, Maserati, Jaguar, NIO and Nissan, the latter of which staged a midweek takeover of Covent Garden, one of central London’s most well-known and busy locations. As Nissan’s driver Sacha Fenestraz told The Independent, the racing-specific alterations have made it a much more exciting affair for spectators, with the cars hitting speeds of up to 275km/h this season. “It’s a huge change. We’re up to 350kw [of energy], before it was 250 so you were quite limited. The championship is growing a lot, the car is more tricky to drive, it’s lighter and quicker and we have more power. It’s a big step forward in terms of racing which is a lot more interesting, a lot more fights on track. It’s been a great step to Gen3,” he said. In terms of his own year on-track, the Annecy-born rookie has been impressive in spells, particularly in qualifying, notching up his own milestones including his first points, pole position and top-five finishes. A decent showing in London could yet see him finish in the top ten for the campaign, though one of his drivers he’ll need to overtake to do so is his own Nissan teammate, Norman Nato. An enjoyable year overall comes down to two days and two races, while the impression left by one of the series’ biggest and boldest events has also left an impression. “It’s been a good season, up and down, we’ve been strong in qualifying and a couple of poles. It took me a bit of time to get used to energy management and racing strategy that is so different to normal combustion engines,” Fenestraz continued. “The race results have been a struggle but it’s the last race of the season and we’re looking forward to scoring points. “What’s been organised in central London is amazing, I was here as a reserve last year and it was like ‘wow’ - I was really surprised at the event. I wanted to be here racing and here I am. We’re enjoying it a lot and now it’s all about getting a good result.” In Covent Garden, fans had the chance not just to meet Fenestraz and take photos with a replica racecar, but also experience a few laps in a simulator and take each other on quite literally head-to-head on a racing game: a brainwave-powered headset which measures a person’s focus to produce on-track speed. Dismally - but perhaps not unexpectedly - after extracting a promise from a laughing Fenestraz to take his place at the ExCel on Saturday if this reporter could beat him, the French-Argentine won by almost a full lap. Mabye next year. Elsewhere, Formula E staged their own event on Carnaby Street, taking Dennis and fellow Brit Dan Ticktum to push the overarching message of sustainability, while Maserati and their partners hosted a panel on LGBTQ+ awareness and activisim. The entire week and weekend will see more of the same, with Formula E very much a sporting championship which pushes social improvement programmes away from the competition itself, be it climate, diversity or equality related. While the championship’s new CEO labels F1 “predictable” and “processional”, FE is showing itself as a far more exciting and changeable series. The finale weekend could show that again. And all the while, it continues to position itself as a bigger force for change too, from mobility electrification to social progress on multiple fronts. It’s a double hit of attractiveness to a younger, wider potential fanbase. Work yet remains to turn a growing series into a truly major one, but the interest and intent is certainly there if consistency can be maintained. And, just maybe, a British world champion celebrating on Sunday will help push that message a little wider. Read More How London provides ‘unique’ setting for Formula E’s enthralling finale Porsche extend Formula E deal - just in time for title fight finale British driver Jake Dennis closes in on Formula E world title with victory in Rome How London provides ‘unique’ setting for Formula E’s enthralling finale Porsche extend Formula E deal - just in time for title fight finale British driver Jake Dennis closes in on Formula E world title with victory in Rome

As the fastest-growing sport in the US, pickleball is the hangout activity of the summer, and now it has the sporty-chic collection to back it up. Launching on June 22, the Staud’s Court drop brings the brand’s effortless, minimalist and timeless aesthetic to the, well, pickleball court — but, don’t worry, tennis obsessives, you’ll love the line, too.

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There are more than 47,000 men diagnosed with prostate cancer every year in England but new research says using MRI scans can reduce deaths caused by the disease. Current tests usually detect the level of the protein prostate-specific antigen (PSA) in the blood, but scientists say this has meant overdiagnosis and overtreatment of low-risk cancer. The Reimagine study, by University College London, University College London Hospitals NHS Foundation Trust and King’s College London, invited 303 men aged between 50 and 75 to have a screening MRI and a PSA test. Of those men, 48 (16%) had an MRI that indicated prostate cancer despite having a median PSA density – 32 of those had lower PSA levels than the current screening benchmark, meaning they would ordinarily not have been referred for investigation. After NHS assessment 29 were diagnosed with cancer that required treatment, and three were diagnosed with low-risk cancer with no need for treatment. Prof Caroline Moore, consultant surgeon at UCLH, chief investigator of the study and NIHR research professor, called the findings “sobering”. She said: “Our results give an early indication that MRI could offer a more reliable method of detecting potentially serious cancers early, with the added benefit that less than 1% of participants were ‘over-diagnosed’ with low-risk disease.” What is prostate cancer? Prostate cancer is the UK’s most common male cancer. It affects the prostate – a walnut-sized gland that sits beneath the bladder and surrounds the urethra in people born with male sex organs. Its main purpose is to help produce semen (the fluid that carries sperm). Prostate cancer can develop when cells in the prostate start to grow in an uncontrolled way. While some prostate cancers grow quickly and spread, others grow too slowly to cause any problems and therefore will never need any treatment. What are the risk factors “Prostate cancer is a disease we tend to see in older age groups (over-50s), but there are exceptions, as with any form of cancer,” said Dr Sanjay Mehta, GP at The London General Practice. According to Prostate Cancer UK black men are at a higher risk – one in four black men will get prostate cancer in their lifetime (compared to one in eight for other men). The risk increases after the age of 45. Family history is important too; your father or brother has had prostate cancer or your mother or sister has had breast cancer, your risk is higher. What are the symptoms? Often there aren’t any signs in the early stages, so be aware of your own risk factors and chat to your doctor if concerned. Prostate Cancer UK have an online risk checker you can use too. Mehta said to watch out for urinary symptoms and changes to how you urinate. “So frequency, where you need to go more often. Hesitancy, where you’re standing over the toilet bowl and a period of time will pass before you’re able to pass urine, and ‘dribbling’, where you’ve finished but find you’re still passing when you walk away. “These are common in older men anyway. But if it’s new for you, and you find you’re having to go more often at night, and you’re having hesitancy or urgency, see your doctor.” Other things to get checked include erectile dysfunction, blood in your urine, and any new and unexplained lower back pain. “Then there are general systemic symptoms, like lethargy, lack of appetite,” added Mehta. “Again, these things often happen anyway, but if it’s a change for you and it’s been happening for a couple of weeks, see your doctor.” How is prostate cancer diagnosed and treated? First, your doctor will chat through your symptoms and history with you. “The next step would involve an examination, including a rectal examination of the prostate,” said Mehta, before referral for further investigations. “I appreciate this can put some men off seeing their doctor but it is a very helpful way of assessing things”. After diagnosis, treatment depends on the stage of the cancer and what’s suitable for each individual, but it may include surgery or radiotherapy. Caught early, prostate cancer is generally very treatable. And even with advanced prostate cancer, treatments have come a long way. Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live Keep fit to avoid heart rhythm disorder and stroke, study suggests How to give your home a proper summer sort out What you really need to do in autumn to keep your lawn in shape

General Mills on Wednesday forecast full-year profit that came in largely below analysts' estimates as the Cheerios cereal

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